Land of forgotten monuments- Bidar

Karnataka Bundh- The whole city of Bangalore was protesting against the Kaveri water verdict- 32 buses vandalized in the city and all that jazz…

Well… I was away from the entire hustle bustle, Very far away… I was spending time with my mom who was on business travel since the last couple of months.

I left Bangalore on Friday by an overnight bus to one of the least preferred holiday destinations in Karnataka- Bidar. When I reached there after a long journey of 12hrs, I had a roaring welcome in the city, quiet literally..!! An IAF “Hawk” flew past right above my head during their daily flying practice sorties. Right then, I had my first GK (general knowledge) moment of the tour. Bidar has been an important training base since the early 1960’s for the Indian Airforce. Bidar serves as the main base for Hawk AJTs and the Suryakiran HJTs.

Day 1:

My mom received me at the bus stand and took me to the bungalow she was staying at. I freshened up and post a quick breakfast, we headed straight to “the Jharani Narasimha Swami Cave temple”. The myth mentions that Lord Narasimha killed Hiranyakashipu and then proceeded to slay the demon Jalasura who was a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva. After being killed by Lord Narasimha, the demon Jalasura turned into water and started flowing down the feet of the Lord Narasimha. Today, devotees have to walk across a cave with water (1.7mts depth) to worship the idol. With bats flying around, roaches swimming with us and dimly lit path to lead us, it was a very nice experience.

Inside the cave- enroute to the Narasimha idol
Inside the cave- enroute to the Narasimha idol

We then drove to our next destination- Basavakalyan, an important site for the followers of the Lingayat community. Enroute, we stopped by the Karanja dam, a small reservoir built across the Karanja river.

The Karanja dam
The Karanja dam

Once, in Basavakalyan- we visited the Basaveshwara temple, 108ft high Basavanna statue, Basavanna Guhe and Akkamahadevi Guhe. Then it was the right turn that lead us to “Anubhava Mantapa”. This is a replica of the ShivanubhavaMantapa- an academy of mystics, saints and philosophers of the ‘Lingayata’ faith in the 12th century. Anubhava Mantapa is often referred as the first parliament in the world.

From there we visited the Basavakalyan fort, sparsely visited apart from a few localities who come there to play cricket. But it is indeed a monument forgotten on the maps. The lights falling on the inner chambers of the fort called for some good photography.

An open air theatre at the entrance of the fort
An open air theatre at the entrance of the fort
A view of Hyder Mahal from the Kadak Bijli Toph view point
A view of Hyder Mahal from the Kadak Bijli Toph view point

Day 2:

We started the day by spending some tranquil moments at the “Nanak Jhira”. This Gurudwara is known for being the second occurence out of the supernatural powers of Guru Nanak. The first one was ‘Sri Punja Sahib’ (Now in Pakistan & strictly prohibited for free visits). Hence Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib is ‘Second Punja Sahib’ of India and hence a very holy site for the Sikhs. The sweet water flowing from a spring is believed to clear one off, all sins.

The Nanak Jhira Gurudwara

The Nanak Jhira Gurudwara

Next, on the list was the Bareed Shahi park. The tombs of the Bahamani rulers lay here. This is small but a nice park maintained just to provide some lung space for morning joggers and evening walkers. This was a neglected piece of history just a year ago and good efforts have been made for its restoration.

The Bahamani tombs
The Bahamani tombs
The Main tomb- At the entrance of the park
The Main tomb- At the entrance of the park

The last and final destination was the Bidar Fort: It is multi-layered fort to say in simple words. It does not have a quantifiable boundary, though a few localites specify some digits to measure its expanse. The entire city is actually within a fort wall which was the area where the citizens lived back during the rulers’ time. The second round of the wall is where the ministers lived. The third and the innermost zone is where today’s tourism is concentrated, the area where the King & the queen lived. This needs a minimum of half a day to explore for a person interested in history, architecture or archeology.

The Royal Residence within the main fort
The Royal Residence within the main fort

Bidar has so much to offer for a backpacker on a tight budget. Apart from the travel distance, everything else is very affordable. Even the entry to all the places on the tourist trail is free. Inspite of it, very few people plan a trip to this district. Maybe because the name pulls down an image of a dry, barren, hot, poor, drought prone etc. What my eyes met here was contradicting my imagination that I had made through what I heard in the media. The city was lush green, raining heavily, clean (at least compared to the cleanest places of Bangalore)…

So, a lesson to take back: Stop imagining how a place would be; go there and see it yourself.

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