Continued from Goa backpacking: Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary.

Based in Colva, my friend and I hired a motorbike to explore Goa. Today, we planned a day trip to explore more of South Goa’s cultural centres. We planned the day around exploring Goa’s backwaters and inland waterways. So we found spots on Google and followed the map to the Rachol ferry point.

Part 1: The historical Rachol

The lush monsoon greenery had already set a soothing tone for our ride. The rickety arch of the Historical Fort gate welcomed us to Rachol. After passing through the gate, we came to a large Goan Azulejo-Painted board that read: ‘The Patriarchal Seminary’, a beautiful structure with a rich history dating to the 16th century. We parked our vehicle and walked into the Seminary’s towering entrance; its corridors and walls are adorned with many valuable and rare frescoes and paintings. However, we were told that entry beyond the lobby was restricted due to ongoing Theology examinations. This place is said to be the first diocesan seminary erected in Asia and houses sacred relics, including a vial containing the blood of St. Constantius, a Roman saint. Swami Vivekananda is also said to have visited this seminary many times in preparation for his famous address at the Parliament of World Religions in Chicago in 1893.

We continued our ride from there, passing other important Rachol structures like the cemetery and Our Lady of Snows Church, before the landscape opened into large green paddy fields and the road abruptly ended at a riverbank. In the rest of the country, locals wait for public buses at designated bus stops/shelters; here, instead of buses, the shelter was a waiting spot for a public ferry ride. A ferry arrived shortly after, taking us, our bike, and several other commuters in their vehicles to the other side of the Zuari River.

Part 2: The traditional Shiroda

With the ferry ride, we experienced a demographic transition from the Catholic majority to the Hindu majority side of the river. But first, a cute little tavern awaited us right at the ferry point exit. From there, we rode across a narrow road elevated over paddy fields and flanked by coconut trees on both sides, dotted with several tiny shrines dedicated to various Hindu gods. The scenery was indeed so beautiful that we had to stop and click some selfies. After continuing the solo road for a while, we entered Shiroda. Our plan was to visit Sri Kamakshi Saunsthan in Shiroda, and we thought it was a good idea to change into more modest clothes before visiting a temple. We found a small tailoring shop and asked if we could buy something; they did, and we changed behind a little curtain.

The tailor who ran the little boutique recommended that we visit the Shiveshwar temple before heading to Sri Kamakshi Saunsthan. We followed the recommendations by the localite and reached Sri Kamakshi temple right before the maha pooja. Since it was Navaratri time, we were lucky to see the Makar (though not the actual Makarotsav, which happens in the evening). The Original shrine of Goddess Kamakshi is believed to have been at Raia (Rachol), from where the idol is said to have been brought to Shiroda to escape persecution by the Portuguese in the 16th Century. Today, the large temple complex features an octagonal tower (Vimana) with a golden Kalash above the Sanctum Sanctorum, a large hall (Sabha Mantapa) covered with Mangalore tiles over wooden pillars, a temple tank, a sacred well and an octagonal lamp tower. We devoured a sumptuous lunch provided to all devotees at the temple before proceeding to the next leg of our day tour.

Part 3: The cultural Louterim

We followed Google Maps to Big Foot; Goa, located at Louterim. It is a private ethnographic museum cum an open-air cultural theme park that recreates the ancestral culture of traditional Goan village life with an audio guide through its exhibits. Souvenir shops are also spread across the premises. The museum’s name, however, comes from a giant footprint pressed into rock on the same premises, tied to the legend of Mahadar. The premises also house a sculpture of Saint Mirabai, said to be India’s longest laterite sculpture.

On the other side of the road stands a 250-year-old Goan-Portuguese mansion, Casa Araujo Alvares, owned by the Big-Foot museum and open to visitors with a ticket. Here, you can see how a traditional Goan home was built for function and aesthetics to support the domestic lifestyle of the time. Another recommendation is a luxurious stay at the Figueiredo Mansion. This heritage house is widely considered Goa’s oldest functioning mansion.

After this visit, and with the rain gods taking over the skies, we rode back to Colva for the night. Our exploration of South Goa, however, continued. We’ll share it in our next post: Goa backpacking: Day trip to Old Goa & Panjim.