Continued from ‘Misty mountains and Madikeri Dasara‘
Having spent most of my younger years in Madikeri, Dasara meant family get-togethers with all aunts, uncles and cousins and night-long tableau hopping on the streets of Madikeri. Leading up to the final day of Vijayadashami, we also eagerly awaited the arrival of the Karagas from each of the town’s Shakthi temples. Each Vrathadhari, or Karaga bearer, was accompanied by a large group of torchbearers, an orchestra, and HuliVesha performers. Our family eagerly awaited the arrival of the four Karaga groups with coconuts and flowers. We offered pooja to the Karaga and took blessings from its bearer after he performed a balancing act with the idols (Karaga) on his shaved head, holding a knife in one hand and a club (Bettha) in the other.
However, I never had an opportunity to see the ceremony where the respective Shakthi deities are invoked before the Karaga bearers commence their annual town tour for Dasara. This October, on the 11th of Oct 2026, luck had me in Madikeri, where I had the opportunity to witness this auspicious ceremony.
In preparation for this day, the Vrathadharis (belonging to the ‘Gowli’ community) undergo a cleansing ritual weeks in advance. On this day, they have their heads shaved, their bodies smeared with turmeric paste, and are dressed in silk dhotis, leaving their upper bodies bare.
On the day following Mahalaya Amavasya, volunteers and the Karaga bearers from all 04 Shakthi temples gather at a place called Pampina Kere in Madikeri. The four Shakthi Devis of the town are Dandina Mariamma, Kanchi Kamakshi, Kundurumotte Sri Chowti Mariamma and Kote Mariamma. Each Devi has a dedicated platform created under a large tree. On this platform, a pot is placed, on which the deity’s idol is placed and decorated with turmeric paste, vermilion, and elaborate flower garlands. Pooja is offered to all four Karagas to invoke the Shakthi goddess, after which the Vrathadharis carry the Karaga on their heads and commence their duties of traversing across the town.
After starting from Pampina Kere, the procession proceeds towards Chowdeshwari Temple located at Mahadevapete, where an elaborate pooja is offered to all four devathes. From there, the procession heads towards Pete Sri Rama Mandira, after which the Karagas will return to their respective temples for the night. The town tour commences from the following day until the night of Dasara.
The night of Dasara is a cultural experience in Coorg that one must indulge in at least once 😊
