Category Archives: Karnataka

Travelling around my home state

In quest of the master weaver of the Kodiyala sarees

My readers and followers on social media are aware of my love for everything handmade. From handicrafts to handlooms, I have a liking for everything with a human touch. Today’s story is also about one such discovery of a handmade product.

It was on the first Sunday of October 2025, to be precise. I was at the ‘Kaaranu Kodupo’, an annual ceremony of Ancestral worship at the Ainmane- the ancestral home of our family. Once the ceremony was over, lunch followed. All the uncles, aunts and distant cousins who had been meeting after a long time had formed small groups and got busy catching up on conversations that hadn’t happened for a long time. Meanwhile, my mom noticed one of my cousins and complimented her on her saree. Upon enquiry about where she had got it from, she mentioned that the saree was part of her wedding trousseau, put together with collections from Kodiyala village in Mandya district. It was the first time I was hearing of the place. I quickly browsed the place on my phone and came across the history of the Kodiyala sarees.

The Streets of Kodiyala village
The Streets of Kodiyala village

I spoke with a friend who shares an interest in handlooms, and we decided to visit a place we hadn’t known about until then. We boarded a train from Bangalore to Srirangapatna, then a KSRTC bus, which dropped us off at Kodiyala. It was a ‘Y’ junction. We were wondering which of the two divergent roads to take. We chose the one that looked a little denser than the other, with packed buildings and shops. As we entered the road, we realised that almost all the structures were quite old, probably dating back to the colonial era or the time of the Mysore Rajas. Some have been maintained in excellent condition. As we walked straight along the same main road, we hit a dead end, arriving at a large temple pond. A granite plaque placed next to it indicated that it had been commissioned much later.

The temple tank at Kodiyala
The temple tank at Kodiyala

We turned back and took one of the crossroads. That’s when we heard the first sound of a loom. It was a steady, rhythmic hum from a power loom, which affirmed the journey we had undertaken so far. But we walked past several muddy streets, with cattle, both bovine and goats, tied outside houses, in search of a Kodiyala handloom that we had read about on Google. The humble smell of the village and the constant sound of the machines kept us company, but none of what we wanted had been spotted.

A lady who had been watching us walk around aimlessly on the street in front of her house paused to ask us what we wanted. We told her that we had been looking to buy authentic Kodiyala sarees, and she introduced herself as a weaver. We were excited and accepted her invitation to walk up to the first floor of her house. She displayed the collection she had at home, but we had to politely refuse them all, as they were all made on a power loom set up on the ground floor of their house. On the parallel street, we then walked into a random house with a cow dung-smeared floor and a low-rise clay-tiled roof. An old man greeted us with a smile and stopped the machine that was creating noise around him. We enquired with him about the looms, and he told us how almost 99% of the weavers in the village had adopted power looms, and there was no one in his known circles who still wove sarees the old-school way. We were heartbroken.

Houses with looms at Kodiyala village
Houses with looms at Kodiyala village

We continued to walk slowly, observing around for the universe’s hints and reached the ‘Y’ junction again. We took the other side of the road, and the same drill began. This time, the streets looked wider, and the houses looked a little more elaborate. Probably, the elite of the time bygone lived in this part of the village. As we walked, we saw a group of old women sitting on the verandah of one of the houses and sharing a fun discussion while stringing flowers. They asked us if we were looking for something or someone. We told them that we were casually walking around the pretty village and trying to find someone who made handwoven Kodiyala sarees. They were surprised and told us that they all used to be weavers themselves. They invited us over to their house for some coffee and showed us around their house.

It was a beautiful courtyard home, one end of which opened to a large garden behind. They showed us old photos and pits inside the house, which were now only memories of the handlooms that had been operated a couple of years ago. Though they are all third- or fourth-generation weavers based in the Mysore region, they all spoke Telugu at home. While we enquired about their mother tongue, they enlightened us a little more about the history of how Kodiyala, the weaving village, came into existence.

Snippets of Everyday life at Kodiyala
Snippets of Everyday life at Kodiyala

Generations ago, when severe hardships devastated weaving communities in Andhra Pradesh, thousands of skilled artisans were left without work, food, or shelter. Recognising the value of their extraordinary craftsmanship, the Wodeyar rulers of Mysore invited these weavers to settle within their kingdom. Handlooms were established in Kodiyala, allowing the artisans to rebuild their lives with dignity while preserving their ancestral craft. Belonging to the Padmashali community, these artisans soon became the official weavers to the Mysore royalty, renowned for crafting exquisite cotton sarees for everyday royal wear. This royal patronage ensured steady livelihoods while nurturing their traditional artistry across generations. Inspired by the beauty of life in the Mysore kingdom, Kodiyala sarees evolved into timeless expressions of local culture. Delicate motifs drawn from native flora, fauna, and architecture became signatures of the weave, earning Kodiyala sarees a reputation for refined craftsmanship, understated elegance, and quality worthy of royalty.

Today, however, the traditional handlooms of Kodiyala face an uncertain future. The rise of power looms has gradually replaced the painstaking artistry of hand weaving, pushing this heritage craft toward the brink of extinction. Only a handful of master Kodiyala handloom weavers remain across the Mysore region, continuing to uphold a tradition once treasured by royal households.

The handlooms of Kodiayala

It was indeed an insightful meeting with this family. We thanked them for their hospitality and knowledge sharing and bid them goodbye. But at the end of this story, did we find what we had come looking for? Hell! yeah! We had our luck hidden in this house. They got us in touch with one of their relatives who continued to hand-weave the cotton sarees, just the old way. Among the 99% of the weavers who adopted powerloom, he is the remaining 1% who continued to nurture this art and preserve the beautiful Kodiyala saree weaving tradition. We got an opportunity to visit his loom and understand the working of a handloom and a Kodiyala- Weave, from where we bought our first authentic Kodiyala Hand-woven cotton saree. But that’s for another story 🙂

10 offbeat things to do in Hampi

From a tourist’s perspective, Hampi can be broadly divided into two parts, separated by the Tungabhadra River. The heritage site of historical ruins is in the Vijayanagar district, whilst places of mythological importance and most homestays offering local experiences are concentrated in the Koppal district side (This is popular as the Hippie island). So, if one is planning a trip to Hampi for the first time, this geographical classification should provide you with a brief idea before you arrive there.

Everybody knows Hampi and there is enough content widely available on places to explore in this historical town. But here are some lesser-known experiences that I loved during my repeated visit to this UNESCO heritage site.

1. Sunrise at Matanga hills: How much amazement can your voracious vision hold? “Boundless” defines the view from the top of the Matanga hills. It was a dreamy view of the entire historical town in its ruined form scattered across the river flowing from one end to the other. And adding to the already picture-perfect frame was a bloody red rising sun in the backdrop. This is by far the BEST sunrise of my life. The early morning climb up the hill and the wait in the cold winds was so worth it that I had goosebumps watching the magic unfold.

Sunrise at Matanga hills
Sunrise at Matanga hills

2. Sunset at Hemkuta hills: A short ascent to the rocky hill by the side of the Virupaksa temple leads you to this best spot to catch the sunset at Hampi. Comfortable benches or the grainy-pebbly ground, you can choose the surface to just lose yourself in experiencing the glorious horizons of Hampi turn from Indigo to blue to misty to bright to rosy to a star-studded sky.

Sunset at Hemkuta hills
Sunset at Hemkuta hills

3. Bathing in the canal water: This is a closely guarded secret. There are irrigation canals passing through the villages in which you want to enjoy a quick dip, only if you befriend a local. If you do not get to enter the water, no worries, simply sitting by its side and seeing the time go by itself would be so comforting.

Water canals of Hampi
Water canals of Hampi

4. Coracle riding & elephant bathing: The river flows right behind the Virupaksa temple, and the temple elephant has a daily schedule of taking a shower in the river. Time your visit right and you can lend your helping hand too. A small ticket can help you cross the river on a coracle-a traditional round flat-bottomed boat built by knitting seasoned bamboo or cane. You can also see locals transporting their bicycles and motorcycles across the river through these boats.

Elephant bathing in Tunga river at Hampi
Elephant bathing in Tunga river at Hampi

5. Cycle tour around the historical monuments: Several shops rent out bicycles to tourists. If you have a tourist map in hand and the luxury of time, trust me, it is one of the highly recommended ways to explore Hampi. For a little more comfort on a sunny day, you can opt for an autorickshaw with a good driver dueling as your tour guide.

Stone Chariot- Hampi
Stone Chariot- Hampi

6. Sunrise at Anjanadri Betta: Believed to be the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, it is frequented by pilgrims which tends to receive higher footfalls as the day progresses. So, if you make it to the peak of this hill as early for sunrise, you can enjoy the view of the surroundings in peace and calm.

7. Sunset at Bala Anjaneya Betta: Another popular spot in the hippie island, it is best when visited during sunset.

8. Bouldering: This area is part of the larger Deccan plateau, and the rocky boulder terrain forms its core geographical feature. Short workshops in free hand bouldering is a great way to either learn a new skill or simply let the inner monkey in you to hang around in the land of the monkey kingdom (it is the birthplace of Lord Hanuman after all).

9. Bike riding in the paddy fields of Gangavathi: Gangavathi is called the rice bowl of Karnataka, and this is where you can see infinite stretches of green paddy fields. Now imagine large boulders and bare old trees standing scattered across these green fields as if they had witnessed all the stories of the past. And then you cut across on a moped or a motorbike casually soaking up this view. Trust me the views will linger in your mind long after you leave Hampi.

10. Cliff jumping & Coracle riding at Sanapur lake: This is not really a lake but the backwaters of a reservoir. It offers amazing activities to get your adrenaline rushing while you jump off a cliff to the depths and a crazy coracle ride along the rapid of the waterbody. A must do while you are on a trip to Hampi.

Sanapur lake
Sanapur lake

Are you going to try these experiences on your next trip to Hampi? Or what else have I missed out in this list? Tell me in the comments below.

Rock Climbing Weekend at Badami

During my tenure as a freelance outdoor leader, the organization that I was working for had arranged an adventure outing for all the leaders to catch up for one weekend. The itinerary seemed interesting but I could not join the team due to personal reasons. When the pictures from the tour were shared in the common group, I had myself filled with regret and envy for not joining them. One photo was of a participant hanging down from a massive rocky hill which triggered me to plan my own trip to finish the undone.

When I did a bit of research on other destinations to learn rock-climbing, several options appeared from locations nearby to Bangalore. But nothing could match the one at Badami in Karnataka. Apart from Badami being a UNESCO site of heritage, its rocky mountainous terrain is popular among climbing enthusiasts. Technical courses in various difficult levels of climbing, from entry to professional are offered by a couple of well-known trainers in Badami. Well, I combined my trip to Badani with a visit to Hampi, but that is for another story. I contacted one of these trainers, booked myself a weekend slot for a beginners’ course and arrived at Badami one morning.

As told, I arrived at Ranganathana Gudda, on the hillocks where my course was supposed to be conducted. Since the weather can get very hot by mid-day in this region, all climbing activities are usually conducted during early morning and late afternoon hours. The surrounding rocky hills cast a shadow at these hours, and this shade provides a cool environment for climbers in an otherwise arid climate of Badami. With safety harness around my waist, climbing shoes, helmets, and chalk powder on my hands, I felt like a warrior ready to enter a war field. I attended four sessions spanning 2 days and completely loved it. Under good guidance, I was able to quickly leam the knack of rock climbing with ease even as a beginner. The overall experience was utterly amazing and worth all the hype and urge I had created within myself to try my hands at it.

Sunset from Ranganathana Gudda- Badami
Sunset from Ranganathana Gudda- Badami

For first timers in Badami, the gap hours between climbing sessions can be utilized to explore Badami’s historical and cultural heritage. It is amazing and impressive. However, I decided to skip all of it this time because I had been to Badami before exclusively for cultural exploration. This time I decided to just relax in the comfort of our hotel (Mayura, Badami) rather than drain our in the scorching heat of the March Sun after the morning climbing session and just soak up the tranquility of the setting sun from the Ranganathana Gudda post the evening sessions.

Along with all the above wonders to be experienced again, what will bring me again to Badami is to experience the full moon night’s camping and hiking over these rocky hills. This was a discovery I made only during this visit and hence could not prepare for it. A full moon night’s view with bonfire to keep us warm with our tents pitched up above there is only a vacation I manifest to happen soon.

Five Types of Trains to Experience in India

Indian railways have one of the largest networks in the world and forms the lifeline of domestic transportation and logistics in the country. For me as a millennial, the thought of a train journey brings back nostalgia. Over the years, I have experienced the crowd of a general bogey, the liveliness of second-class travel as well as the comfort of the air-conditioning through journeys in the upper-class cabins. Through this article, I would like to share five of my unique experiences of travelling in special trains operated by the Indian railways.

1. Vista Dome trains:

The best experience in these trains is by opting for a day journey to truly observe the beautiful landscape through the glass dome roof. The one that I have done is the vista dome ride from Bangalore to Mangalore. The view of the green forest of the western ghats, dark tunnels and deep gorges is an experience to add to your bucket list.

Vande Bharat express
Vande Bharat express

2. Double-decker trains:

I realized that my ticket from Bangalore to Salem was on a double-decker train only after arriving at the platform. My seat was located on an air-conditioned cabin on the top deck, offering a completely different experience for my journey.

Inside Double decker train
Inside Double decker train

3. Mountain trains:

Listed as one of the UNESCO heritages, the Kalka-Shimla train, Darjeeling-Siliguri and the Nilgiris mountain railways collectively offer a travel back in time. All these trains ply on the OG narrow gauge railway lines and the interiors too are still kept the same way that they used to be.

The Himalayan Queen Trains. Top: The narrow gauge train between Kalka & Shimla; Bottom: The broad gauge train between Delhi & Kalka

4. Luxury trains:

These trains offer opulent experiential tours covering iconic landmarks across the states that they operate in. The Maharajas’ Express, the Golden Chariot, the Deccan Odyssey, Palace on Wheels are some of these luxurious trains one must experience.

5. Rail buses:

These are actually single bogie trains that comprise the engine and the cabin in the same segment which is why they are called buses. The one which I had travelled in was the Bangarpet-Kolar railbus, now decommissioned from service. You can also experience the railbus which are run by the mountain railways.

The RailBus

What is your favorite memory of travelling in train? I would be glad to hear from you in my comments below.

Three immersive cultural experiences in Bengaluru

Despite being a cosmopolitan hub, Bengaluru is a metropolis that still firmly holds onto its cultural essence. There may be several festivals being celebrated year-round and across the city but a few of them transcend beyond any religion and community and are rather synonymous with the city’s name. Through this post, I would like to enumerate three such festivals that must be on any Bengaluru resident or tourist’s list of experiences whilst in the city.

    This nine-day festival is a reverence to Adishakti Draupadi and a celebration of her annual homecoming to earth from heaven, on the day of Chaitra Poornami as per the Hindu calendar. Although a main festival of the Thigala community living across Karnataka, people of all castes and religions participate in it. The Karaga bearer (the chief person in the festivities) carries the Karaga (the deity) bedecked with jasmine flowers and begins the procession from Shri Dharmaraya Swamy temple in Nagarathpete, in old Bengaluru. The Karaga bearer is accompanied by the gante dhaari (bell bearer) and hundreds of veerakumaras who together traverse across the streets of the Bengaluru Pete area. The Karaga visits all the temples and the Mastan Saheba Dargah that come along the route until they return to the Shri Dharmaraya Swamy temple before dawn break the following morning.

    Though the festival is observed for nine days, the rituals involving the Karaga bearer spans over several months prior to it. One part of the ritual involves the Karaga bearer undergoing his strength and weight training at one of the several Garadi mane (traditional gyms). Hence, these Garadi manes are considered holy places where replicas of the Karaga and placed and worshipped during the festival. Also, several temples located in the Pete area take out floral palanquins of their deities on procession across the streets of Pete. All these things make Bengaluru Karaga, a special experience.

    Similar Karaga festivals are observed in outskirts of Bengaluru like Hoskote, Kolar, Malur etc. But Bengaluru Karaga is one of its kind and experiences.

    Bangalore’s reputation as a garden city finds a reflection in various traditional festivities of the city. Just as flowers are integral to Karaga, there is another famous festival that has flowers in its very name. The ‘Poo Pallakki Utsava’ is an annual car festival celebrated as part of the Someshwara temple festival in the old locality of Ulsoor. Albeit being a temple festival, it is rather better known as an annual competition between gods and goddesses from temples in and around Ulsoor over which one arrives in the best flower-bedecked palanquin. The car festival is believed to be the wedding day of Someshwara with Kamakshi, and flowers are the theme of all decorations.

    There will be over 80 poo pallakkis from the surrounding temples who attend the wedding celebration of Sri Someshwara Temple with Goddess Kamakshi. The grandest Poo Pallaki is one of the bride, Goddess Kamakshi. Celebrated annually during the Hindu month of Chaitra (around April/May), it is a night long event.

    ‘Kadlekai Parishe’ translating to ‘groundnut fair’ in Kannada is an annual coming together of farmers on the last Monday of Karthika Masa (month in Hindu calendar) celebrated since the 16th century. Legend has it that a raging bull used to damage the groundnut crops that were ready for harvest. The farmers prayed to Basava (bull in Kannada) to protect their harvest, by setting up an idol of a Nandi (Basava / Bull) and a temple at that place and offered their first crop to the Lord. This temple is called Basavanagudi (Bull temple) and the area surrounding it eventually came to be known by the name of the temple.

    Although the groundnut farms made way to residential and commercial structures, the tradition of the groundnut fair is celebrated with great fervor and enthusiasm even today. Farmers from across the state bring their first yield of ground nuts to offer to the temple and to sell them to others during this festival.

    More recently, a similar event is being organized in Malleswaram, around the Kadu Malleswara temple as well.

      A weekend hike from Bengaluru- Akkayammana Betta

      On a random day, we decided to drive towards Kempegowda International Airport with a basic idea to catch the sunset from a nice vantage point. We have explored the Devanahalli fort area on one of our previous day trips and wanted to explore some new places around there. But this time, we had a new family member along with us whose comfort was also meant to be kept in mind while choosing the destination- Our pet dog.

      By looking up a little on google, we came across the sunset point from ‘Akkayammana Betta’. We drove up right until its base where we parked our car and unleashed our dog to freely walk up the small hillock with us. The climb up was easy, leading to a welcome arch of the hilltop temple.

      Akkayammana Betta
      The climb and the welcome arch to Akkayammana Betta

      We walked further and reached a small temple under a large peepal tree that remained closed at the time of our visit. Beyond that was a large rocky tabletop hill offering a view of the surrounding villages and farms.

      Akkayammana Betta
      The temple and the wooden cart at Akkayammana Betta

      While our dog got busy enjoying his time in a puddle of rainwater, we comforted ourselves on the rocky ground watching him enjoy his dip as the sky was prepping itself to see-off the setting sun for the day. Until sunset, the airplanes landing and taking-off at the KempeGowda International airport kept us accompanied. It was a beautiful sunset.

      Akkayammana Betta
      The route from the temple to the hilltop view point at Akkayammana Betta

      After that, we took a walk from across the hill and passed by a few other smaller shrines at the top before descending towards our car. As we approached the temple arch, I noticed a petty shop that sold some eatables and soft drinks. We took a small snack break and fed biscuits to the stray dogs that had followed us. We reached back to the car before it got dark and headed back towards the city, thus ending a short day-out.

      A daytrip from Bengaluru- Adi Chunchanagiri

      Adi-Chunchanagiri mutt is the spiritual headquarters of the Natha Parampara and Jogi Cult of Hindus of Karnataka. My dad, who had earlier visited this place with his friends, happened to insist on going there again with his family. His intention was not to take us on the spiritual path but rather to introduce us to a hiking path which he found picturesque after having ascended.

      One Saturday morning, our family set forth to enjoy this day trip towards Adi-Chunchanagiri. We drove towards Hassan, along an excellent highway until Bellur cross from where we had to take a deviation towards Adi-Chunchanagiri betta (hill) as indicated on google-maps. There on, we enjoyed our drive through the countryside, with traditional homes scattered between vegetable farms, coconut groves, and forest patches of brown boulders and green trees. Google is not always right and that’s why we deviated from the course a little more than necessary until we found the correct track again. But it was the deviation which we enjoyed. We realized that the region is declared as Adi-Chunchanagiri peacock sanctuary. It was no surprise that dozens of peacocks were grazing freely on every other farm, moving around at every turn of the road and everywhere else along our way right until we reached the parking lot at the base of the Adi-Chunchanagiri hill.

      Adichunchanagiri
      Top: The first glimpse of the Adichunchanagiri premises; Below: The entrance tower of the main temple

      The initial approach towards the mutt premises starts with an ascent of about 100 steps leading to the welcome gate/ arch giving a visitor the first glimpse of the main temple. The large doors of the main temple opened into an ambience that felt divine and calm. It is entirely built with stones, and it gives a feeling of being in one of the ancient Dravidian temples though this one was built in modern times. The deities believed to be residing inside and revered highly by the pilgrims here are Sri Kalabhairaveshwara Swamy and Sri Stambhambika (Kambadamma).

      After sitting there for some time, we began our ascent towards the peak of the hill. Just after coming out of the main temple, there is a large Ganesha idol sculpted out of the rocky wall of the surrounding. We continued our climb by passing by some smaller temples with a look around offering beautiful views of the green cover.

      Adichunchanagiri
      The temples and shrines at the Adichunchanagiri hill

      Scores of people were seen climbing up and down for pilgrimage purposes. The climb to the hilltop is done to see the Panchalingas comprising Gangadhareshwara, Malleshwara, Katthale Someshwara, Gavisiddeshwara and Chandramouleshwara, whose temples or shrines are scattered along the trail leading to the summit. But we were there to hike that hill as a recreational activity for the weekend. We climbed up the steep stairs right up to the top with the trail splitting at random places. My family ended up getting lost from each other’s’ sight and then picked whatever trail lied ahead of us and met each other again at the top. Well, not the peak exactly, but just beneath it.

      That’s where I gave up any further climb. The peak point of the hillock is known as Akasha Bhairava. It can be reached by climbing the last bit of the rocky hill which had no stairs but only with the aid of a big, suspended metal chain. It was a straight climb (almost 90 deg. gradient) which included a small jump from one rock to an another. I doubted my ability to descend safely even if I were able to reach the peak. My brother, on the other hand, climbed it up and down with so much ease (and grace) demonstrating that he still possessed his ancestors’ (apes) strongest traits.

      Adichunchanagiri hill
      The view from the top where I was standing beneath the last rock which leads to the peak

      After he returned, we all came down towards the main temple where we were guided towards the dining hall. We devoured the delicious temple food before heading back towards Bangalore.

      We started back just after lunch to avoid the weekend traffic at Bangalore. But, if you are interested to cover more places in this day, you can google for some of the Hoysala temples along your way and add it into your itinerary.

      A day hike from Bengaluru- Kunagalu Betta

      My friends and I picked yet another hill-top around Bengaluru for a day hike. ‘Kunagalu Betta’ on Kanakapura road, it was. We reached there early in the morning before the rest of the world discovered it (for that day). The car could go on to most stretch of the steep road until we parked it beside a small structure built for lord Hanuman by the roadside, under a large rock.

      We started our hike uphill where the route was lined with several trees of custard apples for most stretch. After a kilometer of so, we came across a large rock that formed a cave-arch-like structure that kept the atmosphere inside very cool. After climbing out of the arch, it opened into the sky above a flat hill-top that offered a beautiful view of the other hills around. Do you remember my hike to Acchalu betta, where we went to find a statue of a Nandi on the hill-top? (you can read that story here). A similar Nandi was erected on this hilltop also, which was then overlooked by an ancient temple further atop a rocky outcrop from there.

      The Cave like formation at Kunagalu Betta

      To reach there, we crossed a small wooden brook formed out of a tree branch and then climbed to the peak where the temple stood. We sought the almighty’s blessings which mark the end of the ascent of the hike for most people. We had barely climbed a kilometer and half, and it didn’t feel like a hike yet considering we had done longer trails even on day trips. The breeze was cool, strong and yet soothing and hence, we decided to sit there and spend some time feeling the wind in our hair.

      Kunagalu betta
      The Nandi Statue atop Kunagalu betta

      We then looked around and decided to find our own way to the adjacent hill from there. We climbed down the temple hill and climbed up the adjacent one. We again climbed it down and navigated our way through thick bushes and thorns to ascend yet another small peak. On that peak, we got a sense of getting lost if we tried to explore more hills because at that point, we were the only people and there was no trail that had worn out to lead us anywhere if we were lost. We descended that hill and were trying to find the direction that would lead us back to the temple.

      Kunagalu Betta Peak
      The view from Kunagalu Betta peak

      Just then, our eyes caught a small slope in a random direction and all of us decided to explore one last random trail before heading back. We walked in that direction where the tall grass seemed to need some wear. We walked down further and suddenly out of nowhere; we were in for a surprise. There was a flight of stairs chiseled out of the rocks which was leading downwards. Finding stairs out of nowhere was a surprise, but what assured us was that the stairs would lead us somewhere interesting. Perhaps an abandoned piece of history? We thought as we headed in that direction.

      Kunagalu Betta
      In quest to explore the lost history at Kunagalu Betta

      The grass laden stairs quickly cleared up to the view of a dozen motorbikes all parked side-by-side. That’s when we realized that we had already reached the parking lot. We had found a shortcut on our quest to explore random trails in random directions. Thus ended our quick hike to Kunagalu Betta. I picked up a bag from the car and tried to pluck as many custard apples as possible before heading back.

      In conclusion, it was a short and easy hike. You can combine it with Acchalu betta or any other hike on Kanakapura road and make it a full-day activity.

      The Povvadi Namme of Ibbanivalavadi

      It was back during my school going days, that I had an opportunity to visit the Haleri (Paaleri) Bhadrakali temple in Madikeri taluk. I was especially intrigued by several antlers hung on the wooden beams through the length of the temple verandah. Upon enquiry, the temple priest fed my curiosity by letting me know that the antlers are used during the temple festival to perform ‘Kombaat.’ Kombaat is a word derived as a combination of two Kodava words, Kombu (antler) and Aat (dance). It is one of the ritualistic dances performed during temple festivals of Bhadrakali, a local deity of Kodagu. Ever since then, I was trying to get details or the schedule to witness one of these festivals where Kombaat is performed.

      Finally, it was in the year 2024 when my friend informed me that the Povvadi festival at her native village was scheduled to be held in April. After a long wait, I had finally arrived at the ‘Kaitale’ (ground) attached to the ‘Bhadrakali temple’ of Valavadi village. ‘Ibbani’ and ‘Valavadi’ are two sister villages in Madikeri taluk. The annual temple festival is hosted by each of these two villages on alternating years at the Bhadrakali temple premises of the respective village. This year, it was the turn of Valavadi villagers to host this festival. There are eleven clans that are the original inhabitants of Ibbanivalavadi. Therefore, they take precedence in the conduction of the overall festival.

      Bhadrakali, also known as Bhagavathi or Povvadi, is a local deity worshipped in every village of Kodagu with dedicated temples. The annual festival celebrated in her honor is the Povvadi festival. There are several native communities in Kodagu and each of these members have their own significant roles and responsibilities to be performed at these festivals.

      ‘Maadayi Kaavu’ is a Bhagavathi temple located in the Malabar region of Kerala. It is believed to be the Aadi Neley (primary destination) from where the deity took station at several places across Kodagu. Among these places, is a group of temples called as the ‘Elu Neley’ (seven station) Bagavathi located across the northern and western parts of Kodagu. This group comprises of one brother- Appangeriappa at Kaatakeri and six sisters, namely- Poramalenaad Povvadi at Galibeedu, Karavale Badaga Povvadi, Paaleri Povvadi, Ummeti Povvadi at Makkandur, Kedakal Povvadi, Ibbni and Valavadi Povvadi at Ibbanivalavadi

      Peeli aat

      The beginning of the festivities is marked by a ritual called as ‘Kett boovo’. Thereafter, none in the village is allowed to consume non-vegetarian and alcohol over the next fifteen days. The festival is celebrated towards the last seven days with specific rituals on each day.

      Kombaat

      On the first day, the Ooru-thakka (Village-keepers), Deva-thakka (Keepers of the temple administration) and Bandara-thakka (Keepers of the temple’s valuables) all arrive in a grand procession, carrying the Bandara-Potti (Donation box) and the jewelry for the deity from its treasury to the temple. This marks the beginning of the festival. The people are accompanied by the music of the ‘Dudi’ and ‘Poda mani’ kott (traditional percussion instruments). There are noteworthy rituals like the Boad kali, boad aat etc. among others.

      There are other rituals performed over the next three days. The fifth day is the most interesting as several traditions unique to the ‘Elu Neley’ Bagavathi temples can be witnessed. The day began with ‘Kadi-aat’ followed by a ritual called Aangola-Pongola. It is performed by married couples as an offering to the goddess after their prayers for having children are fulfilled. The vow is fulfilled by their kids by cross-dressing in a wedding ceremonial attire any time before they hit puberty. A son dresses up as a traditional bride (Pongola) and a daughter wears a groom’s costumes (Pongola) as the family together offers their prayers to the Goddess.

      Kombaat

      Then, all the men of the native clans get dressed in ‘Boltha Kupya’- The white robe worn only on auspicious occasions. They then hold a bundle of peacock feathers (peeli) in their hands and perform a rhythmic dance to drumbeats in a circular formation around a ‘Kutthi bolcha’ (traditional lamp). This dance is called ‘Peeli-aat’. Post the performance, the crowd dispersed from the kaitale and gathered around the temple.

      Here, the men in white kupya again perform the Kombaat to the beats of the traditional drums and Valaga (traditional wind instruments played by the members of the Meda community). Along with the ‘Ajjappa,’ (a person possessed by the spirit of ‘Ajjappa’, another local deity), all the other men in white Kupya circumambulate the temple while dancing with the Kombu and Chowri (a cluster of yak hair).

      After that, all the villagers gathered to offer bandara to Ajjappa and Bhadrakali. After everyone had finished offering their prayers, they then went back to the podium with a spirit that was competitive. Competitive, because the next ceremony was like a competition of sorts. All the native clans of the village competed against each other in a coconut shooting competition. Three coconuts tied to a distant high pole were to be shot at as targets. It was a fun event to end the day of festivities.

      After the sun went down, the men came together in an area nearby to the temple to offer animal sacrifice to the deity. Women are not allowed to this space. The food is then distributed among all the village folk.

      Povvadi Namme, Kodagu
      Povvadi Namme, Kodagu

      On the following day, there is a similar celebration with Kombaat and Valaga, but on a smaller grandeur. on the seventh day of the festival, a pooja is offered to the goddess by all the thakkas, before returning the bandara potti and the temple jewelry to the treasury. The last and the final day of the fortnight long festival was marked by a ‘Kalasa Pooja’ offered to the goddess before drawing curtains on such a beautiful festival until next year.

      Disclaimer: The purpose of this article is for documentation of lesser known festivals of India. The above information is only based on what I could gather by discussing with people who had come together at the temple. My apologies for any wrong representation. Readers are welcome to contribute any information that is deemed important and useful to be shared here.

      This post was featured  on 24-Oct-24 edition of ‘Spectrum’ in Deccan Herald National daily.

      Day hike from Bengaluru- Acchalu betta

      My friend had learnt about a hill in Kanakapura Taluk through a YouTube documentary. ‘A large statue of Nandi, the sacred bull of Lord Shiva has been installed at the peak of the hill which can be reached by foot, through a hike,’ he told me. A hike plan was charted, and a few common friends joined us over a weekend to see this ‘statue of the Nandi’ located at the peak of ‘Acchalu Betta.’

      We started from Bengaluru quite early that morning and had our breakfast at a popular location at Kanakapura. From there, we followed google maps to Acchalu village and arrived at a small village temple located on the foothills of a large monolithic hillock. Based on what we had read online, we knew this hill was what we were supposed to summit. We parked our car beside the temple, but we were not sure of the hiking trail that would lead us to the top.

      The temple at the foothills of Acchalu Betta

      Beyond the temple was a mud-road which we planned to walk further. We walked about a kilometer and realized that vehicles could have been driven until that point. There was yet another temple with an open field around which provided ample space for parking. Anyway, we did not mind the additional kilometer we had walked. From there began the actual hike to Acchalu betta.

      The entire trail is nicely made with the kaccha roads cleared off all rocks, boulders, and grass, making it easy to walk and good to drive with a 4W-drive vehicle. However, the initial stretch had been washed down by the recent rain, so there was no way a vehicle could drive past that. After this stretch was over, it was an effortless walk to the peak, but through a thick canopy of bamboo forests. It is frequented by elephants which was evident with freshly dropped dungs enroute.

      The initial trail of Acchalu betta hike

      The canopy then opened to a rocky outcrop offering a panoramic view of Bengaluru cityscape at the horizon. There was an old guesthouse that is abandoned and used by nighthawkers as a place to have a bonfire party.
      A short, paved pathway from there leads to a small pond filled with white lilies. We sat there for a while before proceeding towards the statue that we had motivated us to ascend this hill. The statue of a lone bull (the Holy Nandi) sat gracefully overlooking the cityscape beneath. We too sat there at his foot soaking in the calmness that was swept in by the strong wind that was blowing there. Nandi is the mythological vehicle of Lord Shiva. Hence, a small shrine dedicated to Shiva exists opposite to the statue. It is in fact, a small rocky outcrop under a large tree which is worshipped as the presiding deity. We bowed our heads down to seek his blessings before commencing our return hike.

      The lilly pond at the peak of Acchalu betta with the Nandi statue in the backdrop

      On our way back, we wanted to explore a shortcut to the base and hence, decided to follow an electric line that connected to pole at the place where we had parked our cars. This route was indeed beautiful and interesting as compared to our ascent. This descent was more open to the skies, with lot of green bamboo patches scattered amidst large brown boulders with a constant company of the blowing winds. It was no doubt shorter but was steeper and harder for amateur hikers.

      A day hike to Acchalu betta, weekend plan near Bengaluru
      The shrine dedicated to Shiva, facing the Nandi statue at Acchalu betta peak

      The good decision to explore a new trail came with its own set-of challenges, especially in the last stretch. As the path was unused for ages, thick thorny bushes had taken over the trail. We did not carry any tools with us that would help us to clear our path as we walked ahead. Hence, we tried all methods to navigate our way through the last few meters of our hike. But in the pursuit, we slid a few slopes, our clothes and hair got entangled in the bushes and we came out with bruises all over our limbs, bums and back. We rolled down the hill and got out on an open farm on whose side stood our car.

      The bruises did not bother us as we returned with the content that we had conquered another hill around Bengaluru.

      Watch the Acchalu betta hiking trail here