Nilgiri hills | The Lost Lander

I chose Yercaud primarily because it is a hill station and ideal for a quick summer getaway from Bangalore. I was lured into it more because it is a coffee growing destination at the closest proximity to Bangalore (apart from my own hometown, Kodagu) Interestingly, Yercaud is a 100% Arabica coffee growing region, while it a Robusta major in Kodagu.

We were a bunch of friends who travelled from Bangalore to Salem by train and hired two-wheelers from Salem to Yercaud which we thought was the most convenient and fun way to explore a hill station for a good chilling scene in the peak of the summer season. Since it was sunset time by the time we started our ride from Salem towards Yercaud, darkness engulfed quickly. And even as we rode up the coffee hills via the 32 kms adventurous loop road, we were accompanied by strong winds, uprooted trees across the road, falling branches, a surprisingly heavy downpour and fearful thunderstorms. Despite being drenched to our bones and having a scary ride, we were still thankful that we could navigate the two-wheelers and not be stranded on a 4-wheeler for the rest of the night after being blocked by a fallen tree. The return ride during daylight was equally beautiful because our vacation coincided had with the Coffee blossom season and the entire valley looked and smelled amazing!

If you’re planning to make Yercaud your destination next weekend, here is a list of places you can visit. It is a small hill town, hence I highly recommend having your vehicle to explore as all places are quite a ride away from each other.

Yercaud Lake: For a very laid-back day, you can spend it at the lake located in the heart of the town Boating and other water activities can be opted along with some coffee and local snacks by the lakeside.
Lady’s seat, Gent’s seat, Children’s seat, Botanical Garden: Don’t go by the names of these spots like I did to find what the seats were about, they are just names for viewing towers that are built there. You can cover all these spots along a single stretch of a walking trail which offers good views of the surrounding hill ranges.
Kiliyur waterfalls: You can have a rejuvenating day here by taking a dip in the waterfall here. However, keep the waterflow in check before deciding to venture into the waters depending on the season you visit there.
Shevarayan hills: The hill gets its name from Shevarayan, the local deity who is worshipped inside a small cave at the top of the hill. The hilltop offers a flat area at the peak with great view of the surrounding hills and a favorite among the locals for short drives from the town. At then time of our visit, there was a small fair going on here with giant wheels, merry-go rounds etc, and a lot of small shacks selling snacks, chai and smoke.
Karadiyur viewpoint: Thanks to the downpour from the previous night, our ride was hard, tricky and slippery through the muddy last stretch to get to the entrance of this place. But it was completely worth it, and it gets my highest recommendation to visit here for a sunset view. It was beautiful. Among all the viewpoints we had thus far explored in Yercaud, the entry here was ticketed but the view made complete justice to it. A short ride from here is the Sri Chakra Maha Meru temple. But we decided to skip this since we spent more time at the viewpoint rather that rushing to a more recently constructed temple before it got dark.
Annamalaiyar temple: This place gets my second highest recommendation if I were allowed to rate places. We visited here in the afternoon and yet the 360 degrees view from here was just amazing. The temple itself was a small structure whose top can be accessed by a small ladder which serves as a watch tower also. Even at peak noon, the winds were so strong, the temperatures so cool and the vibe so peaceful.
Pagoda viewpoint: A landmark usually marked on a touristy map of Yercaud, there is a watch tower which provides a good view but not as best as what I have seen at the above-mentioned less-frequented spots. There is also a telescope installed by the government for education purposes which can be accessed by any interested public. The access is free of charge, but it would be generous on your part to tip the person guiding you through when you handle the instrument by yourself.

We stayed at a luxury resort built within a 100+ acres coffee and spice plantation in Yercaud. We spent our vacation without packing too many things as the hills themselves are very laid back. Apart from spending time doing activities like plantation walks, birdwatching etc. at the resort, we explored the places listed above and feel that our time was aptly occupied. Depending on whether you want to extend your stay for another leisurely day or pack your day with few more spots, you can visit the places below.

Montfort School: Located in the heart of the town, it came as a recommendation on google for places to visit. However, when we arrived at the school gates, we were denied entry into the premises. Not sure of the reason, maybe because it was still school time.
Sangalathudi viewpoint: We skipped this since we had done few viewpoints already.
Manjakuttai viewpoint: This was a high recommendation on google for a sunrise view. We decided to give this a miss considering the distance from our accommodation and the laziness to wake up so early on a leisurely weekend trip.
Tippery viewpoint: Located on the southernmost point of Yercaud, it is another good place to see the hills.
Norton bungalow: This used to be a British bungalow, now owned by a private entity on the way to Shevarayan temple. So, it requires prior permission to enter the premises. We tried to locate it on google, but could not get the right directions and leads for the required permits.
Bear’s cave: This is a google landmark located inside a private estate near the Norton bungalow. But we had to skip it since we couldn’t locate it.
Nallur waterfalls: We skipped this since we had already added Kiliyur waterfalls to our visit and Nallur was quite far away from our accommodation.

Food:

We mostly ate our breakfast and dinner at the resort itself since they had good buffet and ala-carte menu. Apart from that, they also made good woodfired pizza served in an outdoor seating adding to the ambience. But we tried lunch at Sweet Rascal restaurant based on high user ratings. They serve Sri Lankan cuisine with a limited menu to choose from that menu changes every day. Since all the ingredients are freshly bought in limited quantities daily, it is highly recommended you make a prior reservation of a table. The food was good and the ambience even better. They have indoor and outdoor seating with lot of greenery and various kinds of pet animals around. But what makes your visit even more exciting is the collection of hearty anecdotes and funny quotes pasted and painted all around the property.

I hope this post is useful to plan your next weekend getaway from Bangalore. Let me know in comments if you have any questions or feedback.

Heard of the blue hills? Does the name ‘Nilgiris’ strike any bell? For those who know less, it is a part of the Western Ghats, a UNESCO World heritage site in the southern peninsula of India. The ‘Neel-giris’ literally translates to ‘Blue-Hills’ because these hills get their colour from a particular phenomenon. A particular species of the Strobilanthes kunthiana flowers, locally called the Neela-Kurinji bloom once in twelve years. When in full bloom, the entire hill range looks blue, thus giving the hills their name. The last mass-flowering of the neelakurinji flowers happened in 2018 and I left no leaf unturned to witness this spectacle. There were a couple of hotspots identified by the Kerala forest department where arrangements were made to allow visitors to see the flowers.
My friends and I decided to visit the Eravikulam National park, located close to Munnar. This stretch of the hills was where most of the blossoms were supposed to happen. After finalizing the visit dates in Sept’18, the Delhi friends had booked their flight tickets to fly down and the remaining of us booked our bus tickets from Bangalore to Munnar. I had got all the necessary entry permits from the forest authorities and booked accommodation in Munnar for all of us. All this was done months in advance to have a confirmed entry anticipating the tourist influx for such a spectacle, if we waited until later. We were all set and waiting for the travel to finally happen.

Come July’18, the rain gods had wreaked havoc in the western Ghats. The entire stretch of western Ghats in Karnataka and Kerala had been damaged by the heaviest rains in eight decades. The damage done was massive to geography, property and life along these areas. In the event of things, damage was done even to the neelakurinji plants and the blossoms were feared to be washed out. Once the rain gods had calmed down and the ground situation of floods seemed to have receded, we waited to see if there was any luck in waiting until September. We were in constant touch with a few locals who gave us the updates on the status of the blue hills. Come September and we decided to go ahead with our original plan. We all had finally arrived at Munnar and were heading towards Eravikulam National Park.

Once there, Yes, there were enough plants destroyed. The stronger few, had managed to bear flowers. We walked along the laden path, feeling grateful for at least so many of the plants had survived. Since these plants blossom only once every 12 years, it means that their reproduction cycle is longer than usual. This also means that, most of the Neelakurinji vegetation is lost in the 2018 monsoon and the next flowering cycle of the year 2030 may not happen at a mass-scale as it is usually supposed to happen at all!! Anyway, we enjoyed whatever we were witnessing.

The Neelakurinji flowers at Eravikulam National park

Also, Neelakurinji is only a sub-species of the larger group of flowers called the Kurinji. The Kurinji flowers come in several colors- white, peach, purple, etc. Here is a collection of the Kurinji flowers from Eravikulam National park that we saw during our visit.

The various Kurinji flowers at Eravikulam National park

So that said, I was back in my hometown the following week and visited our piece of farmland to check on its status after the monsoon. It used to be a spice plantation that remained unmaintained for a long time before we, siblings ventured into developing it. our farm is a short walk away from the main road. When we arrived there and decided to walk, the entire path was filled with what seemed like some weed that had overgrown during the monsoon. We used a machete to make way for ourselves to walk further. Just a few steps into the area, we were surrounded with pink/ maroon flowers all around us. ‘These weeds had flowered expansively’, we wondered. We took a lot of photos, made way for ourselves, finished our work and returned home. When we discussed about the weeds with the elders in the family, we were surprised to hear that these plants also belonged to the Kurinji family.

The Kurinji flowers from our farm in Kodagu

Further, an important month in the Kodava and the Tamil calendar is the month of Kakkada or Aadi. In Kodagu, on the 18th day of this month a special dish is prepared using a locally available herb. Its juice is believed to contain 18 medicinal values. It leaves a very deep blue/violet pigment when cooked and consumed only on this day. And what is this plant called? Don’t even guess… Locally called ‘Maddh thoppu’ or ‘Aadi soppu’, it is also a variety of Kurunji.
So, Kodagu primarily has three types of Kurinji; the flowering weed(Maley Kurinji(as in hill), Etth Kurinji(as in cattle) and Maddh Kurinji(as in medicine).
A little bit of googling allowed me learn that there are many sub-species of the Kurinji and each have their own flowering cycles. While some bloom annually, some bloom once in six years and some take a couple of decades. Neelakurinji was just one among them.

Lesson learnt: How often do we tend to ignore the little things from our own backyard? We think these are too trivial to spend time and look for things elsewhere. It is often that people associate that better things come only when money is spent and distances are travelled, but the truth may be that it is something that we have been conveniently ignoring in our own vicinity.
What is your take on this thought?

getting lost in traveling through places and time…