Tag Archives: Backpacking in India

Festivals of India, Goa, Indian Architecture, Statewise Travel

Goa backpacking: Makarotsav Celebration and Temple Hopping

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Continued from Goa backpacking: Mahavir National Park.

I returned to Goa with a friend to spend our Dasara vacation and we chose to stay put at the same homestay in Colva that was our base while my family and I had explored Madgaon, Old Goa, and its surroundings during our earlier visit. Everybody associates Goa with the yuletide cheer, but my friend and I were more inclined towards experiencing Goa’s unique tradition of Makarotsav as part of the Dasara festival celebration. We had heard about it through our friends belonging to the Saraswat Brahmin communities, most of whose Kula devata (patron God of their community) happen to be in Goa.

What is Makarotsav?

“Makar’ is a boxy frame like swing decorated beautifully and carries the idol of the deity. It is rocked to the rhythmic beats of dhols, Tasha, temple bells along with Aarti. The history of this unique Dasara tradition dates to the 16th Century. During the Portuguese rule, several Hindu temples were destroyed across Goa. Many people fled these places overnight and arrived at the forests of Ponda region to take refuge.

It is said that these Hindus also carried their deities along with them which were installed across the region. Since then, Makarotsav has become a symbolic celebration. The act of ‘Swinging the deity’ is a representation of their God being with them in times of hardship, moving, swaying and living among the people.

The original sites at which the idols were installed eventually saw significant renovations under the Maratha rule. The style of temple architecture is typical to the region and is a blend of domes, pillars, and large lamp posts/towers in the courtyard. Some of the oldest structures that still stand strong bear the original wooden bars, intricate paintings alongside reliefs and carvings in their original condition. Water tanks or Kalyanis, are integral to the vast premises housing these temples.

Where can I witness Makarotsav?

Today, Ponda has the highest density of Hindu temples across the state of Goa and therefore revered as the Temple town of Goa. ‘Makarotsav’ is celebrated in most temples in and around Ponda which can be broadly classified into three categories. Temples that worship Shiva, Temples that worship Vishnu and Temples that worship Parvathi (Shakthi). Goddess Parvathi is worshipped as Shanta Durga and is believed to be the guardian of every village.

The legend has it that Goddess Shantadurga is the one who mediated peace between Shiva & Vishnu when they fought to establish who was the greatest among the two of them. Hence, her name is Shanta+Durga, a combination of two words ‘Shanthi+Shakthi. The Goddess is (Peaceful) Gentle enough to resolve any egos and (Brave) fierce enough to slay any demons. There are over 20 temples dedicated to Shantadurga located across Ponda and its surroundings where one can participate in Makarotsav.

The celebration happens simultaneously at different temples on all nine days of the Navaratri /Dasara festival, usually starting by 08.00.p.m. and finishing by 11.00.p.m. Hence, it is difficult to cover all temples in just 1 or 2 days, and requires detailed scheduling to take part in as many Makarotsavs as possible.

Shri Shantadurga temple, Kavalem
Shri Shantadurga temple, Kavalem

Below is the list of temples we visited on one of the evenings. We had planned them considering their proximity to each other and before knowing the timing of the Makarotsav at each temple.

1. Shree Shanta Durga, Kavalem (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): This was our first stop by around 08.00.p.m. The outside of this temple felt like a village fair with lot of makeshift stalls selling things. It was crowded at the time of our visit, and we saw the Makar still being decorated extremely elaborately. We waited for some time in the belief that the utsav would start but we were told that it was scheduled for later at 10.30.p.m. Meanwhile, we were invited for dinner at the temple’s dining hall. However, we chose to politely reject since we had eaten a light meal before arriving. We decided to visit other temples in our list without spending further time waiting there. Our plan was to witness the utsav at whichever temple we arrived at, at the time or return to this place by 10.30.p.m as the case may turn out.

2. Shri Shanta Durga Shankleshwari temple, Veling (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): It was roughly 09.30.p.m. when we arrived here by chance, on our pursuit to a different temple. But we considered ourselves most fortunate as we had come just in time before the Makarotsav started. We found ourselves on the floor, somewhere in the front with a good view of the Makar. The celebration lasted for about 45 minutes post which a large queue was formed to distribute the prasada offerings comprising of Black-chana dal salad, cut fruits and whole fruits. We devoured them and quickly proceeded towards the next temple located a short distance away where we were told that the Makarotsav was about to begin.

Shri Shantadurga Shankaleshwari Makarotsav
Shri Shantadurga Shankaleshwari Makarotsav

3. Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling (Temple dedicated to Vishnu): The most beautiful temple I have been to on this trip, the temple complex has retained most of its old-world feel. The smell of seasoned wood used in its constructions, the frescos and paintings and the moss-laden temple tank with a backdrop of coconut and banana trees had all my heart. The Makarotsav began by 10.00.p.m. with the idol of Lord Narasimha and it was a transcending experience. The prasada was distributed to all devotees to wherever they were seated and the crowd dispersed immediately after the utsav had ended.

Shri Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling, Goa
Shri Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling

4. Shree Mahalasa Narayani, Mardol (Temple dedicated to Shakthi): Mahalasa is venerated in two forms in Goa. Mahalasa Narayani to be a female avatar (Mohin) of Vishnu and as a form of Parvathi, consort of Khandoba (a form of Shiva). One of the must-visit temples in this circuit, we missed the Makarotsav as the timing overlapped with Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple and hence, we could only see the temple by requesting us get a glimpse while the security guards were closing the gates and not witness the Utsav.

5. Shree Mangesh temple, Mardol (Temple dedicated to Shiva): Our next stop was at yet another famous temple in this circuit, well after everything had wrapped up for the day. It was well past 11.30.p.m and hence, I had to make peace just seeing the temple arch.

6. Shree Kamakshi, Shirodha (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): We visited this temple around afternoon, hence could not see the Makarotsav. However, the Makar was available but closed for viewing until evening. But for us the visit, though in the afternoon was still a highlight of temple hopping thus far because we had ended up here by chance on a random countryside exploration of Rachol (Written about in a separate post). But I got lucky to devour the hearty lunch at the temple distributed to everybody who came. Genuinely, it was unexpected and tasted so divine. We spent enough time resting on its courtyard before proceeding towards our next destination.

Shri Kamakshi temple, Shiroda, Goa
Shri Kamakshi temple, Shiroda

7. Vimleshwar temple, Rivona (Temple dedicated to Shiva): We arrived at this temple just when it had opened early in the evening and while we were on our way back from our Netravali exploration (Written about in a separate post). We did see the Makar carrying the idol of Lord Vimleshwar and all decorated for the Utsav but were quite early for the Utsav which was scheduled to start later around 08.00.p.m. as per the priest with whom we got talking. Without anybody else at the time of our visit and the strong energy of the temple itself, it was truly a wonderful time.

8. Damodar Sansthan, Fatorda (Temple dedicated to Shiva): Despite Damodar recognized as one of the names of Lord Vishnu elsewhere across regions where Hinduism is practiced, it is a reference to Lord Shiva in Goa. A massive temple complex in expanse, we happened to drop by here while on our way to Colva from Netravall. Our visit was unplanned. Hence, our attire was messy, and rain soaked but not as bad that we had to be chased out of the temple by the presiding priest. Therefore, we left without seeing the idol or anything else inside the temple despite having stepped inside.

What happens at the Makarotsav?

The main deity inside the sanctum sanctorum is worshipped in various forms like anthill, wooden sculpture, Kalasa, brass, bronze idols etc. depending on the local legend about the deity. However, the Utsava Moorthi (idol) placed in the Makar is different from that worshipped inside the sanctum.

As a basic feature of all Makarotsavs, the rocking/ swinging of the wooden frame (Makar) to rhythmic sound of the instruments and Aarti is same across all temples. However, the beats of the music and the procedures preceding or succeeding the Utsav differ slightly from temple to temple. Once the swinging ceremony is completed, the following rituals may vary from temple to temple. For example, we witnessed it at two temples.

At the Shri Shanta Durga Shankleshwari temple in Veling, the floral decorations adorning the deity are auctioned among the gathered people. This is a way of raising funds for the upkeep of the temple and its maintenance. The prasad was served where in the devotees had to stand in queue to collect it. At the Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple, The Prasada was distributed in pre-packed disposable leaf bowls to wherever the devotees were seated even as the Makarotsav was going on. There was no auctioning of anything associated with the temple or the Pooja. Even waste bins were kept across the main hall to collect the waste so that all could leave the premises as soon as the celebration was over and the gates were quickly closed for the day.

While the Makar was adorned and kept ready for viewing of everyone at the Vimleshwar temple by 05.00.p.m., at the other Shanta Durga temples that we visited, the decorated Makar was closed with a curtain and opened for public viewing just before the start of the Aarti. This might be something else in other temples.

If you know any other practice at any other temple that celebrates Makarotsav, share it with me in the comments below.

To be continued as Goa backpacking: Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary.

Statewise Travel, Tamil Nadu

Things to do in Yercaud

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I chose Yercaud primarily because it is a hill station and ideal for a quick summer getaway from Bangalore. I was lured into it more because it is a coffee growing destination at the closest proximity to Bangalore (apart from my own hometown, Kodagu) Interestingly, Yercaud is a 100% Arabica coffee growing region, while it a Robusta major in Kodagu.

We were a bunch of friends who travelled from Bangalore to Salem by train and hired two-wheelers from Salem to Yercaud which we thought was the most convenient and fun way to explore a hill station for a good chilling scene in the peak of the summer season. Since it was sunset time by the time we started our ride from Salem towards Yercaud, darkness engulfed quickly. And even as we rode up the coffee hills via the 32 kms adventurous loop road, we were accompanied by strong winds, uprooted trees across the road, falling branches, a surprisingly heavy downpour and fearful thunderstorms. Despite being drenched to our bones and having a scary ride, we were still thankful that we could navigate the two-wheelers and not be stranded on a 4-wheeler for the rest of the night after being blocked by a fallen tree. The return ride during daylight was equally beautiful because our vacation coincided had with the Coffee blossom season and the entire valley looked and smelled amazing!

If you’re planning to make Yercaud your destination next weekend, here is a list of places you can visit. It is a small hill town, hence I highly recommend having your vehicle to explore as all places are quite a ride away from each other.

  1. Yercaud Lake: For a very laid-back day, you can spend it at the lake located in the heart of the town Boating and other water activities can be opted along with some coffee and local snacks by the lakeside.
  2. Lady’s seat, Gent’s seat, Children’s seat, Botanical Garden: Don’t go by the names of these spots like I did to find what the seats were about, they are just names for viewing towers that are built there. You can cover all these spots along a single stretch of a walking trail which offers good views of the surrounding hill ranges.
  3. Kiliyur waterfalls: You can have a rejuvenating day here by taking a dip in the waterfall here. However, keep the waterflow in check before deciding to venture into the waters depending on the season you visit there.
  4. Shevarayan hills: The hill gets its name from Shevarayan, the local deity who is worshipped inside a small cave at the top of the hill. The hilltop offers a flat area at the peak with great view of the surrounding hills and a favorite among the locals for short drives from the town. At then time of our visit, there was a small fair going on here with giant wheels, merry-go rounds etc, and a lot of small shacks selling snacks, chai and smoke.
  5. Karadiyur viewpoint: Thanks to the downpour from the previous night, our ride was hard, tricky and slippery through the muddy last stretch to get to the entrance of this place. But it was completely worth it, and it gets my highest recommendation to visit here for a sunset view. It was beautiful. Among all the viewpoints we had thus far explored in Yercaud, the entry here was ticketed but the view made complete justice to it. A short ride from here is the Sri Chakra Maha Meru temple. But we decided to skip this since we spent more time at the viewpoint rather that rushing to a more recently constructed temple before it got dark.
  6. Annamalaiyar temple: This place gets my second highest recommendation if I were allowed to rate places. We visited here in the afternoon and yet the 360 degrees view from here was just amazing. The temple itself was a small structure whose top can be accessed by a small ladder which serves as a watch tower also. Even at peak noon, the winds were so strong, the temperatures so cool and the vibe so peaceful.
  7. Pagoda viewpoint: A landmark usually marked on a touristy map of Yercaud, there is a watch tower which provides a good view but not as best as what I have seen at the above-mentioned less-frequented spots. There is also a telescope installed by the government for education purposes which can be accessed by any interested public. The access is free of charge, but it would be generous on your part to tip the person guiding you through when you handle the instrument by yourself.
Annamalaiyar temple
Annamalaiyar temple

We stayed at a luxury resort built within a 100+ acres coffee and spice plantation in Yercaud. We spent our vacation without packing too many things as the hills themselves are very laid back. Apart from spending time doing activities like plantation walks, birdwatching etc. at the resort, we explored the places listed above and feel that our time was aptly occupied. Depending on whether you want to extend your stay for another leisurely day or pack your day with few more spots, you can visit the places below.

Karadiyur viewpoint- Yercaud
Karadiyur viewpoint- Yercaud
  1. Montfort School: Located in the heart of the town, it came as a recommendation on google for places to visit. However, when we arrived at the school gates, we were denied entry into the premises. Not sure of the reason, maybe because it was still school time.
  2. Sangalathudi viewpoint: We skipped this since we had done few viewpoints already.
  3. Manjakuttai viewpoint: This was a high recommendation on google for a sunrise view. We decided to give this a miss considering the distance from our accommodation and the laziness to wake up so early on a leisurely weekend trip.
  4. Tippery viewpoint: Located on the southernmost point of Yercaud, it is another good place to see the hills.
  5. Norton bungalow: This used to be a British bungalow, now owned by a private entity on the way to Shevarayan temple. So, it requires prior permission to enter the premises. We tried to locate it on google, but could not get the right directions and leads for the required permits.
  6. Bear’s cave: This is a google landmark located inside a private estate near the Norton bungalow. But we had to skip it since we couldn’t locate it.
  7. Nallur waterfalls: We skipped this since we had already added Kiliyur waterfalls to our visit and Nallur was quite far away from our accommodation.
Pagoda viewpoint

Food:

We mostly ate our breakfast and dinner at the resort itself since they had good buffet and ala-carte menu. Apart from that, they also made good woodfired pizza served in an outdoor seating adding to the ambience. But we tried lunch at Sweet Rascal restaurant based on high user ratings. They serve Sri Lankan cuisine with a limited menu to choose from that menu changes every day. Since all the ingredients are freshly bought in limited quantities daily, it is highly recommended you make a prior reservation of a table. The food was good and the ambience even better. They have indoor and outdoor seating with lot of greenery and various kinds of pet animals around. But what makes your visit even more exciting is the collection of hearty anecdotes and funny quotes pasted and painted all around the property.

I hope this post is useful to plan your next weekend getaway from Bangalore. Let me know in comments if you have any questions or feedback.

Sponsored posts, Travel talks

Chain Pulling in Train: Rules, Valid Reasons & Fines

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Chain pulling in trains is an emergency action mechanism that has been introduced for passenger protection, thus it also ranks among the most misused amenities in the Indian Railways system. A sizable portion of passengers, however, do not know the precise train chain pulling regulations, the valid reason for chain pulling in trains, and the fines imposed when the act is done wrongly. It is imperative to know these details not only to avoid unwarranted fines but also to confirm the efficiency of the emergency feature during real scenarios. Whenever you are planning a train journey, ensure that you check your Live PNR status before departure.

Chain pulling, known as Alarm Chain Pulling (ACP) system, is fitted in coaches so that passengers can stop the train in emergencies at their request. However, since trains are shared public transport, misuse can lead to a hundred passengers being inconvenienced, train schedules being disrupted, and even safety risks occurring as a result. Hence, the Indian Railways has strict rules and a well-defined train chain pulling fine systems in place.

What Is Chain Pulling in Train and Why Does It Exist?

Chain pulling in trains is viewed as a protective measure designed to fill the gap where there are no quick fixes. The pulling of the chain leads to a drop in the brake system’s air pressure, thereby bringing about the stopping or slowing down of the train. This particular feature is set up to assist passengers with emergencies that cannot wait until the next station. For instance, medical emergencies, accidental boarding, and safety threats are some of the situations where stopping the train becomes a must.

Nonetheless, an emergency bearing importance akin to the one mentioned above is still often misconstrued as a convenience tool. Some passengers miss their stops and claim it as a reason to pull the chain, while others just want the train to halt at a non-scheduled station and use the chain as their instrument. Such actions are considered misuse and fall under punishable offences according to the train chain pulling rules.

Train Chain Pulling Rules You Must Know

The Indian Railways has defined the alarm chain regulations explicitly and in detail under the Railways Act. The chain should be pulled only in case of a real and unavoidable emergency. Pulling the chain, the railway personnel will first check the reason and then let the train go. If the reason is found to be invalid, the passenger responsible can be prosecuted.

To avoid unnecessary panic or misuse of the alarm chain, passengers are advised to check the Indian Railway Live Train Status  in advance. Knowing the real-time train status helps travellers stay informed about delays, stoppages, or rescheduling, reducing the chances of confusion or unwarranted emergency actions during the journey.

As per the provisions, the chain-puller has to inform the guard or the railway personnel about the reason. In case the explanation is not accepted as a valid reason for the chain pulling, fines are imposed. These regulations have been introduced to keep order, maintain time, and provide safety on the railways, particularly on long-distance routes where a delay can affect several trains.

Valid Reason for Chain Pulling in Train

A valid reason for chain pulling in trains has to do with passenger safety or health being at an immediate risk. Medical emergencies, such as a heart attack, severe injury, or sudden illness, are regarded as valid. If an elderly person, child, or disabled person accidentally boards the wrong train, this can also be treated as a valid reason in certain cases.

The other accepted reasons include fire in the coach, serious security threats, or a passenger falling out of the train or being caught between the cars. In these situations, pulling the chain is a good way to prevent the spread of harm. It should be mentioned that reasons like being hungry, wanting to order food on train.

Chain Pulling Fine and Legal Consequences

The fine for chain pulling can be very tough to deter misuse. Pulling a chain without authorisation, as mentioned in Section 141 of the Railways Act, can be punishable with a fine of ₹1,000, imprisonment for a period not exceeding one year, or both. In most cases, passengers are instructed to pay the fine at the time of the incident before they can continue their journey. Misuse of this facility could result in not only monetary fines, but also questioning by the railway officials and, in serious cases, court action.

Consequences of chain pulling misuse on other passengers.

Misuse of chain pulling in trains is not only a matter of paying fines. Just one unauthorized stop can cause a chain of events leading to a train delay so considerable that it will affect other trains and a large number of passengers. The domino effect of having connection problems because of delays around the train stopping unauthorised is one of the reasons why Indian Railway considers chain pulling misuse as a serious offence.

How to Avoid Chain Pulling Situations

Timely execution could outdo the majority of unnecessary chain-pulling cases. Concerns about the food onboard are manageable by booking meals online through authorised providers. This will prevent you from being tempted to pull the chain for food-related reasons. If you have any non-emergency matters, it is always wiser to approach the train guard, TTE, or railway helpline rather than chain pulling.

Conclusion

Train chain pulling is an essential safety measure, not a luxury. Knowing train chain pulling laws, understanding the situations that justify chain pulling, and realising the chain pulling fine can prevent passengers from getting into legal problems and contribute to the maintenance of railway operations’ smoothness. By being more knowledgeable about tools such as PNR status, Train Running Status, and food availability on the train, passengers will be able to have a safer and more comfortable trip without making any misuse of emergency systems. Responsible travel is the only way to keep emergency mechanisms open for the people who need them.

Five Types of Trains to Experience in India

8 Best Things to Do in India with Your Partner

FAQs

1. When is chain pulling allowed in Indian Railways?

Indian Railways permits chain pulling only in real emergencies where immediate action is needed to safeguard life, health, or safety. Major medical emergencies, fire outbreaks in the coach, security threats, or a passenger accidentally boarding the wrong train due to force majeure are some of the cases that are recognised as valid. The mechanism is for emergencies only and not for convenience or avoidable problems.

2. Can we pull chain in train if someone is late?

No, chain pulling is not allowed if a passenger is late or misses the train. Being late, missing a stop, or asking the train to halt for personal reasons does not qualify as an excuse. Pulling the chain under such circumstances is considered an abuse of power and can attract a train chain pulling fine or legal action under Indian Railways rules.

3. Who should be informed after chain pulling?

The passenger who has pulled the chain is to inform the train guard, ticket examiner (TTE), or any railway staff in the coach immediately after the chain is pulled. It has to be explained clearly why the chain was pulled. Railway officials will decide if the situation is a valid emergency or not before the train proceeds.

4. Can chain pulling be done for medical emergencies?

Yes, medical emergencies are among the most acceptable and legitimate reasons to pull the chain on the train. Instances like sudden sickness, severe injury, or a life-threatening condition give the passengers the right to pull the emergency chain so that medical help can be dispatched at the next station.

5. Are all coaches equipped with an emergency chain?

Most railway passenger coaches in India are fitted with an emergency alarm chain or an equivalent system of emergency brakes. Nonetheless, modern coaches might differ in their design to a certain extent, where alarm buttons or handles could be used instead of the orthodox chains, but still serve the same purpose in case of an emergency.

Festivals of India, Uttar Pradesh

Part 1- The Story of The Maha Kumbh and the Naga Sadhus

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The Kumbh Mela is the largest human gathering in the world, at least according to my school lessons. Since then, I’ve been curious to see what this massive congregation looks like. I happened to redo most of this route again in the company of another friend when I decided to witness the Maha Kumbh Mela in 2025.

By 2025, with the ability to fund my own travel and enough mental maturity to understand the world, I planned to attend the ‘Maha Kumbh Mela,’ scheduled for 45 days starting from the day of Makar Sankranti in January 2025 and ending on Maha Shivaratri in February 2025. Initially, I planned everything for a solo trip. Considering my leave, expected crowds, and other factors, I intended to take a holy dip at the Triveni Sangam in Prayag on Shivaratri. I had booked flights and accommodation well in advance. However, as the Kumbh Mela approached, news spread rapidly about this rare celestial event happening once every 144 years, attracting people worldwide eager to dip in the river. Many flocked to the site, driven more by FOMO, less by spirituality. Due to this unprecedented rush, transportation and public infrastructure were eventually overwhelmed. One of my friends decided to join me in my quest to wash away all my sins in the river confluence.

My plan was finalised well before the global frenzy began. I had a clear list of places I wanted to visit, the order of my travels, and the experiences I sought. This was the condition I set for my friend before accepting her request to join me. We flew from Bangalore to Ayodhya, where I finally got to see the Ram temple after his return from Vanavas. (My previous visit to Ayodhya has been detailed in a separate post). From there, the plan was to take the train to Prayag to experience the energy of the Kumbh Mela during its last two days. Afterwards, we would travel by train to Banaras, stay for a few days without a fixed itinerary, and then fly back to Bangalore.

When we reached Ayodhya, the small pilgrimage town was packed with crowds. Luckily, we had secured a slot to visit the Ram temple through online booking after staying awake until midnight, two weeks earlier. That sleepless night made our Shri Ram darshan quick and smooth. Without staying on the crowded streets, we slept through the night to catch the morning train to Prayag. Media reports emphasized the massive crowds at all railway stations around Prayag, raising our concerns before we arrived. We heard that daily visitors could reach 1-2 crores, excluding the main ‘Snan / Royal Bath’ days during the mela.

The Crowd at Hanuman Garhi temple, Ayodhya
The Crowd at Hanuman Garhi temple, Ayodhya

We had a small list of things to do and experience, that were exclusive to the Kumbh Mela. Upon alighting at Prayag, two things happened. First, apart from the holy dip in the confluence, another priority was to see and interact with the Naga Sadhus. We believed this was a golden opportunity to experience the energy of so many ascetics in the same place who otherwise live in solitary dwellings in remote natural areas like mountains, forests or caves. However, we learnt that most Nagas had left the mela after the royal bath on the day of Basanth Panchami.

Second, I received an SMS notification on my phone that the scheduled train from Prayag to Banaras on the MahaShivaratri day had been cancelled, as a precautionary to avoid a stampede like situation that had happened on the day of the holy bath on Mauni Amavasya. This was the same train in which he had a confirmed ticket to Banaras. This cancellation then put us in even more distress wondering how we are going to navigate our travel through the crammed-up transportation system that had garnered widespread coverage on media.

After arriving at Prayag railway station, there was still hope. Things didn’t seem as bad as we had imagined, and it was rather easy to navigate from the station to the hotel we had booked earlier. Also, during other occasions, the Nagas belonging to the major thirteen Akhadas leave for their abodes after the Kumbh mela. But this time was special, the last day of the Kumbh coincided with the Maha Shivaratri. They had all headed to Banaras, for the Lord’s darshan on the most important night of their Adi Guru, Lord Shiva. We still had a probability to see them all if we reached Banaras for Shivaratri. But, we had planned to take our holy dip on that same day as it was one of the most important bathing days.

On the other hand, some good Samaritans recommended us to leave Prayag before the last day of the mela as a large crowd was expected to flock to not miss out the once in 144 years opportunity to wash off their sins. All holy sites and landmarks within the proximity of the confluence were closed for the next couple of days to avoid overcrowding. Roads would be blocked for vehicular movement and reaching either the airport, railway stations or bus stations would be far off to be accessible by foot. Finding some wisdom in the words of so many people, my friend and I both decided to reschedule our plan for Prayag.

Bird's eye view of Triveni Sangam, Prayag
Bird’s eye view of Triveni Sangam, Prayag

Accordingly, after freshening up in our tented accommodation by late noon, we set out on a triple riding bike taxi to complete few of the things from our to-do list. Firstly, we tried para-motoring. Getting a bird’s eye view of the massive wall of the Allahabad fort setting a backdrop for the holy confluence and the tent city was a beautiful experience we had waited for. From there, we went visiting the temporary sets of the twelve jyotirlingas and finally reaching for the Ganga aarti at the ghat. We participated in the bhajans, did the aarti and slid into the warmth of the blankets in our tent.

Early morning boat ride to the Sangam, Prayagraj
Early morning boat ride to the Sangam, Prayagraj

We woke up the following morning to board the boat that we had booked on the previous evening. The biting cold temperature made us a little hesitant to take the dip, but when we finally reached the confluence- the energy felt different. We both thanked the waters, greeted the rising sun and dipped ourselves in the Triveni Sangam, praying for good of us, our families and the world. It was a moment that I had looked forward to all my life, that twinkle in the eyes of the younger me was beaming with joy.

The Sangam dip during MahaKumbha 2025
The Sangam dip during MahaKumbha 2025

After changing into dry clothes, we packed up and decided to move out of Prayag at the earliest. We hired bike taxis to reach a bus-station located on the outskirts of Prayag. To our surprise upon reaching, none of the buses were as crowded as we had expected them to be. Each bus left the stands as soon as the seats were occupied. The frequency was such that no passengers needed to stand on the aisle for their journey to Banaras from Prayag. The journey was smooth and rather on time, thanks to dedicated lanes marked for local and outside registered vehicles each and for public buses.

Continued as Part 2: The Story of The Maha Shivaratri and the Naga Sadhus

Andhra Pradesh, Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Bangalore day trips, Chattisgarh, Gujarat, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu & Kashmir, Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Odisha, Rajasthan, Sikkim, Statewise Travel, Tamil Nadu, Union territories, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal

Five Types of Trains to Experience in India

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Indian railways have one of the largest networks in the world and forms the lifeline of domestic transportation and logistics in the country. For me as a millennial, the thought of a train journey brings back nostalgia. Over the years, I have experienced the crowd of a general bogey, the liveliness of second-class travel as well as the comfort of the air-conditioning through journeys in the upper-class cabins. Through this article, I would like to share five of my unique experiences of travelling in special trains operated by the Indian railways.

1. Vista Dome trains:

The best experience in these trains is by opting for a day journey to truly observe the beautiful landscape through the glass dome roof. The one that I have done is the vista dome ride from Bangalore to Mangalore. The view of the green forest of the western ghats, dark tunnels and deep gorges is an experience to add to your bucket list.

Vande Bharat express
Vande Bharat express

2. Double-decker trains:

I realized that my ticket from Bangalore to Salem was on a double-decker train only after arriving at the platform. My seat was located on an air-conditioned cabin on the top deck, offering a completely different experience for my journey.

Inside Double decker train
Inside Double decker train

3. Mountain trains:

Listed as one of the UNESCO heritages, the Kalka-Shimla train, Darjeeling-Siliguri and the Nilgiris mountain railways collectively offer a travel back in time. All these trains ply on the OG narrow gauge railway lines and the interiors too are still kept the same way that they used to be.

The Himalayan Queen Trains. Top: The narrow gauge train between Kalka & Shimla; Bottom: The broad gauge train between Delhi & Kalka

4. Luxury trains:

These trains offer opulent experiential tours covering iconic landmarks across the states that they operate in. The Maharajas’ Express, the Golden Chariot, the Deccan Odyssey, Palace on Wheels are some of these luxurious trains one must experience.

5. Rail buses:

These are actually single bogie trains that comprise the engine and the cabin in the same segment which is why they are called buses. The one which I had travelled in was the Bangarpet-Kolar railbus, now decommissioned from service. You can also experience the railbus which are run by the mountain railways.

The RailBus

What is your favorite memory of travelling in train? I would be glad to hear from you in my comments below.

Chattisgarh

Exploring Ramnami Community: A Journey into Tradition

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Over recent years, my travels across India ignited my fascination with how tattoos hold cultural significance among different Indian communities. In many areas, tattoos serve as symbols tied to tribal customs. One community that particularly intrigued me was the Ramnami of Central India. When I shared this with a friend, she too showed interest in delving deeper into this culture. We eventually connected with a community member who graciously allowed us to visit his village, even inviting us to stay with his family. We happily arranged our visit.

Getting there

We initially flew from Bangalore to Raipur. From there, we caught a local bus to the GPM district. Subsequently, we explored GPM by taxi, which dropped us off at Chandlidih, the Ramnami village. It was raining heavily as we navigated the damaged, flooded roads and finally arrived at the location indicated by Google Maps. We carried our backpacks while crossing a small reservoir wall built over a stream swollen by the monsoon. On the other side was our host’s house. By the time we reached the front yard of the Ramnami family’s modest home, we were covered in mud from puddles stretching from the parking lot to the house.

Portraits of the Ramnamis
Portraits of the Ramnamis

Welcome to the Ramnami home

Our host welcomed us upon arrival and directed us to the guest room to drop off our luggage. The room, an extension of the main house, was built with cob and wood, offering basic amenities such as two beds for resting and a light bulb for illumination at night. We relied on mobile internet throughout our stay. According to tradition, anyone visiting from outside must bathe and cleanse themselves before entering a Ramnami home. The next experience was something my friend and I will both remember for a long time: the bathroom!

It was a simple enclosure with two and a half walls and a roof. Half of the third wall was intentionally built to shoulder height, making it easy to bring in water from outside either with buckets or through a gravity pipe connected to a nearby perennial stream that filled a concrete tank inside the bathroom. The fourth side was left open for easy access, featuring a modest saree stitched into a sliding blind that could be moved to open or close. There was no running water; hot water had to be fetched from an outdoor firewood oven, or one had to make do with the chilly water stored in the tank inside. Our city dwelling bodies were used to a sturdy lockable door for bathing with unlimited hot water from a tap or shower. While the cold-water setup was tolerable for my outdoor spirit, I could not imagine standing unclothed inside a doorless bathroom.

The Ramnami Community
The Ramnami Community

If I were hiking, I could go days without bathing, but here, it was crucial to start our trip by experiencing the Ramnami culture. Hesitantly, I took off my clothes and poured a couple of mugs of water, just as I heard giggles outside. I paused to check if I was imagining things or if it was real. Soon, I saw the shadows of a few kids moving behind the curtain. As I began applying soap, I saw two toddler heads peeking in from the sides of the curtain, giggling again. I panicked, yelled my friend’s name, and hoped she would come to help. She got scared and ran over to see what was wrong. I told her about the curious kids, and she decided to stay at the bathroom entrance until I finished. Later, I returned the favor.

After changing into fresh clothes, my friend and I headed to the porch of their house, where the entire family had been singing hymns of Lord Ram since sunrise, even before we arrived. We greeted them with a coconut and some fresh flowers, which we were asked to bring as part of their tradition of introducing a new guest to the family. Most adults had tattoos reading ‘Ram-Ram’ in Hindi covering their bodies. Some had full-body tattoos, while others had only face, arm, or forehead patches. They all wore pure white clothes handwritten with ‘Ram-Ram’ patterns. Their Dhotis, shawls, and headgear featured the same ‘Ram’ writing in a consistent style. The handmade headgear, unique to the Ramnami, was decorated with peacock feathers. All participants in the Ram bhajan carried strings of small jingling metal bells, each stamped with ‘Ram’ during casting.

We introduced ourselves and joined their Bhajan until lunch was served. I savored a simple Satvik meal made with ingredients from their farm. The faint aroma of firewood used in cooking enhanced the local flavors with a divine touch.

Daily utility items and life of the Ramnamis
Daily utility items and life of the Ramnamis

Exploring the daily life of the Ramnamis

We traveled without a fixed schedule, aiming for a slow, immersive experience of this community’s daily life. After lunch, my friend and I joined members singing Ram Bhajans on the porch to understand what defines the Ramnami. We were transported back to the 1890s to learn about their history. Like the rest of India at that time, casteism barred lower castes from entering shared places of worship. Some rebelled by declaring their bodies as temples dedicated to Ram, tattooing the Ram-Nam (Lord’s Name) with a locally made ink derived from herbs. They formed the Ramnami community. A senior member leads events, whether a baby’s birth or a funeral. Their greetings and farewells are solely marked by singing Ram-Bhajans, even during major life events like marriages. They do not conduct any Brahminical rituals, poojas, or havans as part of their practices.

A portrait of a Ramnami community member
A portrait of a Ramnami community member

With the rain gods commanding the skies and earth, we saw them prepare their shawls, made from woven, stitched white cloth they crafted themselves. These shawls were then covered with Ram-Nam. After carefully observing them write with their native ink for a while, we joined in to write on some of the other pieces. Once finished, they set them aside to dry, initiating a series of procedures to prevent the white cloth from bleeding black.

A walk through Ramnami village
A walk through Ramnami village

When the rains stopped, our host guided us through their village. We crossed a stream, carefully walked along the paddy field edges, and eventually made our way along muddy, winding roads. We met several members of the Ramnami community, mostly relatives or neighbors from the same village. We greeted women working in the fields and enjoyed coffee at welcoming houses. Later, we visited JayaStambh, a small monument commemorating the annual Ramnami mela held here a few years prior. Some older community members joined us there at sunset, singing Ram bhajans as a tribute to the setting sun. Afterwards, we visited a small reservoir across the lake. The Ram Bhajans, sung warmly around a bonfire, echoed over the calm water, with the sky changing colors dramatically until nightfall.

The evening prayers at the Ramnami Jayastambh
The evening prayers at the Ramnami Jayastambh

We walked home carefully through the night darkness to avoid slipping on the slush. After a satisfying dinner, we drifted into a peaceful, childlike sleep, concluding a long and exhausting day.

The following morning, we rose early to witness a normal day in the life of the Ramnami. We went to the reservoir with the elder members of our host family, who offered prayers to the sun god and recited blessings before their water dip. After changing into clean clothes, they went back home to continue household tasks such as cleaning, preparing food, and having breakfast.

The morning at the Chandlidih reservoir
The morning at the Chandlidih reservoir

Conclusion

Spending time at a Ramnami home offered a genuine glimpse into a culture that is remarkably different from the rest of India. The younger Ramnami generation might not be eager to follow the traditional paths laid out by their elders. However, this community exemplifies how faith in God can help us overcome great challenges. They defied the odds, forging their path, which they believe will lead them to a divine connection.

After a simple breakfast and Ram Bhajans, we packed our bags for our next destination in Chhattisgarh. Our host assisted us with pillion rides on two motorbikes, skimming over the slushy village roads before reaching the highway, where we caught a local bus to continue our journey.

Jammu & Kashmir, Nature & Wildlife

Purple Farms of the Saffron Flowers- Kashmir Story

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Long ago, I watched a visual documentary about the farmers of Kashmir who woke up early on freezing cold mornings to gather fresh flowers from their fields. They all rose with the sun to harvest saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. Ever since, these romanticized visuals had me imagining myself walking on those farms someday.

For close to a year, I had been trying to reach out to people to know when the exact time of the year was to witness these inflorescences. I got in touch with a local person from Srinagar who would take me around the farms. I learnt that the flowers would bloom around late October when autumn sets in. As the season approached, I was getting too anxious to not miss the season. Thus, booked a last-minute flight ticket from Bengaluru, for a long weekend at Srinagar. After a missed connecting flight and spending almost an entire day at the Delhi airport, I had finally arrived at Srinagar on a late Friday evening.

‘Be ready early in the morning, we will be heading towards Pampore’, my local guide said to me before dropping me off at a homestay in the city.

On the following morning, the Chinar leaves of autumn had started to paint my entire journey in gold. The sun rising over the overlooking mountains that surrounded us all around only enhanced my excitement to reach my destination. The saffron grown in the Jammu and Kashmir region has gained a GI tag in the year 2020 with Pulwama, Budgam and Kishtwar districts being key saffron producing areas.

‘Welcome to the Saffron town of India’, a board stood at the entrance of Pampore in Pulwama. The wide stretch of land on both sides of the highway looked bare and dry, without sight of a single flower or even plants of saffron that I had come to see from 2000 kilometers away. I looked at the person accompanying me, enough for him to understand the meaning of the perplexing look on my face. “Haven’t the farmers cultivated saffron this year?”, I asked him.

He walked me down to one of the farms on the roadside and explained to me that even yield ready plants aren’t prominently visible, with barely one or two grass-like looking leaves emerging from each root (bulb). Only the flowers come out from the root that are extremely sensitive to the environmental temperature. “This stretch of the farms has no shade and the heat due to the highway traffic delays the blossom. We will go to the interior villages of Pampore which have more shade because of orchards like apples, almonds, apricots, etc. The blossom season begins in the shaded-cooler areas and ends with the open-warmer areas”, he said giving me some relief.

We then met a farmer at Pulwama town who then drove us through the interior village of Pulwama, which is otherwise untouched by tourists. Finding our way through the misty morning while being greeted by endless orchards on either side, my guide on the steering stopped at a point. “Madam, here you go!”, he said.

Saffron flowers in Kashmir farms
The purple flowers of saffron in Kashmir

I ran out of the car and watched the sight in awe. It seemed like a faint purple carpet of flowers had been laid on a hazy morning, with the apple orchards writing testimony to my presence and the snowy mountains standing guard against this beautiful view. I had a tear rolling down my cheek, which I am still unsure if was because of sheer joy or in disbelief that I had made it there. I spent hours that morning walking between the purple blossoms, caressing the tender, dewy and moist flowers of saffron, taking pictures of the flowers while enjoying the crisp autumn air. The people accompanying me for sure must have thought that I was a psychopath wandering and meandering all alone, who had travelled from so far just to see these flowers. A few flowers made it to my books, pressed carefully between the pages and getting to go home with me.

Saffron flowers in Kashmir farms
Saffron flowers in Kashmir farms

He picked the tender flowers and rested a bunch on my hands while pulling out the saffron strands from one, for me to eat. My tongue had turned yellow upon consumption which he explained was an indication of the authenticity of the spice. I was then invited to his work area where his family had gathered around a table and were separating the different parts of the flowers that would be used for different purposes. He explained the entire process of separation of the saffron strands (the stigma or the female part of the flower), the drying and the packaging. Sipping on hot brew of Kahwa served with the same strands of the saffron that I was holding a few moments ago was overwhelming.

Saffron flowers in Kashmir
Saffron flowers Separation

Of course, my visit would have been incomplete without picking up stashes of saffron from their shop as souvenirs for friends and family. In this short visit to the land of saffron, I had witnessed the world’s richest spice travel from farm to market. Sigh, it was a dream come true, to experience these fully blown saffron fields!

Fact file:

  • It is recommended to get in touch with proper sources and book taxis in advance who could take you on such guided tours of the saffron fields.
  • Pampore and Budgam can be reached on day trips from Srinagar. J&K tourism runs guests houses in Kishtwar as well, which can be reached via taxis hired from Jammu city.
Nature & Wildlife, Statewise Travel

List of the Widest Waterfalls of India

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We all know that the widest waterfall in the world is the Niagara, and it is in America! So, we take it for convenience to use Niagara as a synonym to refer to every other wide waterfall in our region. But how many of us have really seen the widest waterfall in India? Or for that matter, how many of us have seen the widest waterfall of our own states within India? Irony is we surely know Niagara, but we might have not even heard of the one in our own backyard.

So, here’s my attempt at listing some of the widest waterfalls in the Indian states that we love to call the Niagara of our country! (Note: These are by width of the waterfalls and not by their height)

1. Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh:

The WIDEST waterfall in India is this, where river Indravati plummets down a horse-shoe shaped gorge. A beauty to behold in all true senses, a ride in a country boat to right under the waterfall is a spell-binding experience.

Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season
Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season

2. Athirappilly waterfalls, Kerala:

Chalakudy river cascades down a rocky gorge forming this spectacular waterfall is something that one would not want to miss on their next haunt to Kerala to explore its backwaters and canals.

Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala
Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala

3. Gokak waterfalls, Karnataka:

Formed by the Ghataprabha river, Gokak falls is Karnataka’s best kept secret. A walk on the hanging-bridge laid right across the waterfall when it is flowing full, is an experience worth considering.

Gokak waterfalls
Above: The front view of Gokak falls from the Volkart rock view point; Below: A view from the Hanging bridge.

4. Hogeynakal waterfalls, Tamil Nadu:

As river Kaveri enters Tamil-Nadu, she plummets down forming this beautiful waterfall where a coracle ride is highly recommended.

Hogeynakal waterfalls
The breathtaking view of the Hogeynakal waterfalls from the watch tower

5. Bogatha waterfalls, Telangana:

An unexplored beauty, the Cheekupally stream cascades down forming this waterfall that has still been off the radar of mass-tourism.

6. Panimur waterfalls, Assam:

Assam is mainly a low-land / plain area with Dima Hasao district being its only hill-station. The high altitude of the region holds some of the best waterfalls of the state as well, among which Panimur waterfalls formed by the Kopili river is its best-kept secret.

Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam
Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam

7. Bahuti waterfalls, Madhya Pradesh:

Some may revere it to be the highest in Madhya Pradesh state, but I couldn’t find an equivalent in width to match this place of natural beauty which is formed by Sellar river in Rewa district.

8. Seven sister waterfalls, Meghalaya:

Thanks to its year-round rainfall, Meghalaya is a land of waterfalls, each being spectacular on its own. Talking about wide waterfalls, this set of seven-segmented waterfalls drops down a limestone cliff at Cherrapunjee which looks spectacularly wide when it is full during the monsoon-season.

9. Gira waterfalls, Gujarat:

Formed by the river Ambika, a jeep ride through a nice green landscape to reach this waterfall is what the locals recommend to enjoy this visit better.

This is my humble attempt to enlist some of the widest waterfalls, picking one from each state in India. Let me know what is the widest waterfall at where you are?

Boat ride at Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh
Art & Craft, Regional Food, Statewise Travel, Tamil Nadu

A Rare Connection of Hockey Between Karnataka and Tamil Nadu

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I have been fortunate to meet many like-minded people online, through travel blogging. Recently, I happened to meet one of such friends offline, during his visit to Bangalore. He greeted me with a souvenir, a nice palm leaf box containing chikkis. He explained that it was the ‘panai olai petti’ containing the famous candies from his hometown. After I returned home, a little bit of online browsing about this souvenir unfolded some interesting facts for me.

The palm leaf box containing the Kovilpatti chikki
The palm leaf box containing the Kovilpatti chikki

Talking about the southern states of India, two neighbours have a lot in common. What triggered this thought were the names of places starting with the letter ‘K’, one from each state. Kodagu and Kovilpatti from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu respectively. Meanwhile, the ‘C’ is what makes these two ‘K’ places famous. ‘Cauvery’, the holy river originates in Kodagu and ‘Chikkis’, the peanut candies of Kovilpatti has earned a GI tag for itself. Enough is written and done on the internet about either of the places.

Palm leaf boxes of Kovilpatti mithai being Repurposed as planters
Palm leaf boxes of Kovilpatti mithai being Repurposed as planters

But what turned out to be more surprising and a rather rare connection between the two ‘K’ places of these states is their common love for the National sport of India- Hockey. In my earlier post, I have mentioned how the largest festival in the world dedicated for any sport (hockey) is celebrated in Kodagu. But what I learn now is that Kovilpatti too, shares its history with Indian military and the influences of the British to have a strong hockey culture. With at least a dozen hockey clubs and several players making it to the Indian national team over time, the people of Kovilpatti have an unabated enthusiasm for the national sport.

What I do know is, that there are several other lesser-known places in India where people celebrate sports other than cricket. Only initiatives by governments, support from sponsors and adequate media publicity can encourage and motivate more people to nurture a sporting culture in our country, anything other than cricket.

Himachal Pradesh, Personal space

The Story of my Solo trip is an e-book now

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My visit to the arid land of Spiti was my first solo trip in all sense. I have previously spoken about its beautiful landscape and the wonderful people through my blog posts. But, on a personal note this travel has been one of the most impactful trips of my lifetime. So, here is the entire story in the form of an e-book.

Through this book, I seek your company while I backpack alone on a trip to the mountains. I want you to join me when I gate crash a mountain wedding and dance to the first snow. I want company when I confront a mummy and when I visit a vault full of millennium old paintings. Stay with me as I return home with an unsettling chaos running in my tummy. As you read through the pages of this book, you can bite into the juicy apples of Kinnaur all along, walk with me meeting people and go on a virtual trip to the Spiti valley and back.

You can get your copy of the e-book on Amazon by clicking on the image or the link below:

Click on image to buy the copy of ‘My Spiti Sojourn’

Yes, I know the language could have been tuned a little more and the English, could sound a little more polished. But, due to reading the same story over and over again, a few mistakes have outflown, my humble apologies! This book had been compiled in the first covid lockdown (Apr 20) and I have been procrastinating to publish it for over a year now, even post 2nd lockdown I (Apr 21). So, finally it had to be done….. But, I promise that my intention of sharing my story and experiences from the road has been compiled to the best of my abilities. I wish you all read, enjoy your virtual trip to Spiti and share your honest thoughts about it…