Tag Archives: spirituality

Festivals of India, Goa, Indian Architecture, Statewise Travel

Goa backpacking: Makarotsav Celebration and Temple Hopping

April 3, 2026 thelostlander 6 Comments

Continued from Goa backpacking: Mahavir National Park.

I returned to Goa with a friend to spend our Dasara vacation and we chose to stay put at the same homestay in Colva that was our base while my family and I had explored Madgaon, Old Goa, and its surroundings during our earlier visit. Everybody associates Goa with the yuletide cheer, but my friend and I were more inclined towards experiencing Goa’s unique tradition of Makarotsav as part of the Dasara festival celebration. We had heard about it through our friends belonging to the Saraswat Brahmin communities, most of whose Kula devata (patron God of their community) happen to be in Goa.

What is Makarotsav?

“Makar’ is a boxy frame like swing decorated beautifully and carries the idol of the deity. It is rocked to the rhythmic beats of dhols, Tasha, temple bells along with Aarti. The history of this unique Dasara tradition dates to the 16th Century. During the Portuguese rule, several Hindu temples were destroyed across Goa. Many people fled these places overnight and arrived at the forests of Ponda region to take refuge.

It is said that these Hindus also carried their deities along with them which were installed across the region. Since then, Makarotsav has become a symbolic celebration. The act of ‘Swinging the deity’ is a representation of their God being with them in times of hardship, moving, swaying and living among the people.

The original sites at which the idols were installed eventually saw significant renovations under the Maratha rule. The style of temple architecture is typical to the region and is a blend of domes, pillars, and large lamp posts/towers in the courtyard. Some of the oldest structures that still stand strong bear the original wooden bars, intricate paintings alongside reliefs and carvings in their original condition. Water tanks or Kalyanis, are integral to the vast premises housing these temples.

Where can I witness Makarotsav?

Today, Ponda has the highest density of Hindu temples across the state of Goa and therefore revered as the Temple town of Goa. ‘Makarotsav’ is celebrated in most temples in and around Ponda which can be broadly classified into three categories. Temples that worship Shiva, Temples that worship Vishnu and Temples that worship Parvathi (Shakthi). Goddess Parvathi is worshipped as Shanta Durga and is believed to be the guardian of every village.

The legend has it that Goddess Shantadurga is the one who mediated peace between Shiva & Vishnu when they fought to establish who was the greatest among the two of them. Hence, her name is Shanta+Durga, a combination of two words ‘Shanthi+Shakthi. The Goddess is (Peaceful) Gentle enough to resolve any egos and (Brave) fierce enough to slay any demons. There are over 20 temples dedicated to Shantadurga located across Ponda and its surroundings where one can participate in Makarotsav.

The celebration happens simultaneously at different temples on all nine days of the Navaratri /Dasara festival, usually starting by 08.00.p.m. and finishing by 11.00.p.m. Hence, it is difficult to cover all temples in just 1 or 2 days, and requires detailed scheduling to take part in as many Makarotsavs as possible.

Below is the list of temples we visited on one of the evenings. We had planned them considering their proximity to each other and before knowing the timing of the Makarotsav at each temple.

1. Shree Shanta Durga, Kavalem (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): This was our first stop by around 08.00.p.m. The outside of this temple felt like a village fair with lot of makeshift stalls selling things. It was crowded at the time of our visit, and we saw the Makar still being decorated extremely elaborately. We waited for some time in the belief that the utsav would start but we were told that it was scheduled for later at 10.30.p.m. Meanwhile, we were invited for dinner at the temple’s dining hall. However, we chose to politely reject since we had eaten a light meal before arriving. We decided to visit other temples in our list without spending further time waiting there. Our plan was to witness the utsav at whichever temple we arrived at, at the time or return to this place by 10.30.p.m as the case may turn out.

2. Shri Shanta Durga Shankleshwari temple, Veling (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): It was roughly 09.30.p.m. when we arrived here by chance, on our pursuit to a different temple. But we considered ourselves most fortunate as we had come just in time before the Makarotsav started. We found ourselves on the floor, somewhere in the front with a good view of the Makar. The celebration lasted for about 45 minutes post which a large queue was formed to distribute the prasada offerings comprising of Black-chana dal salad, cut fruits and whole fruits. We devoured them and quickly proceeded towards the next temple located a short distance away where we were told that the Makarotsav was about to begin.

Shri Shantadurga Shankaleshwari Makarotsav

3. Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling (Temple dedicated to Vishnu): The most beautiful temple I have been to on this trip, the temple complex has retained most of its old-world feel. The smell of seasoned wood used in its constructions, the frescos and paintings and the moss-laden temple tank with a backdrop of coconut and banana trees had all my heart. The Makarotsav began by 10.00.p.m. with the idol of Lord Narasimha and it was a transcending experience. The prasada was distributed to all devotees to wherever they were seated and the crowd dispersed immediately after the utsav had ended.

Shri Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling, Goa — Shri Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Veling

4. Shree Mahalasa Narayani, Mardol (Temple dedicated to Shakthi): Mahalasa is venerated in two forms in Goa. Mahalasa Narayani to be a female avatar (Mohin) of Vishnu and as a form of Parvathi, consort of Khandoba (a form of Shiva). One of the must-visit temples in this circuit, we missed the Makarotsav as the timing overlapped with Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple and hence, we could only see the temple by requesting us get a glimpse while the security guards were closing the gates and not witness the Utsav.

5. Shree Mangesh temple, Mardol (Temple dedicated to Shiva): Our next stop was at yet another famous temple in this circuit, well after everything had wrapped up for the day. It was well past 11.30.p.m and hence, I had to make peace just seeing the temple arch.

6. Shree Kamakshi, Shirodha (Temple dedicated to goddess Parvathi): We visited this temple around afternoon, hence could not see the Makarotsav. However, the Makar was available but closed for viewing until evening. But for us the visit, though in the afternoon was still a highlight of temple hopping thus far because we had ended up here by chance on a random countryside exploration of Rachol (Written about in a separate post). But I got lucky to devour the hearty lunch at the temple distributed to everybody who came. Genuinely, it was unexpected and tasted so divine. We spent enough time resting on its courtyard before proceeding towards our next destination.

Shri Kamakshi temple, Shiroda, Goa — Shri Kamakshi temple, Shiroda

7. Vimleshwar temple, Rivona (Temple dedicated to Shiva): We arrived at this temple just when it had opened early in the evening and while we were on our way back from our Netravali exploration (Written about in a separate post). We did see the Makar carrying the idol of Lord Vimleshwar and all decorated for the Utsav but were quite early for the Utsav which was scheduled to start later around 08.00.p.m. as per the priest with whom we got talking. Without anybody else at the time of our visit and the strong energy of the temple itself, it was truly a wonderful time.

8. Damodar Sansthan, Fatorda (Temple dedicated to Shiva): Despite Damodar recognized as one of the names of Lord Vishnu elsewhere across regions where Hinduism is practiced, it is a reference to Lord Shiva in Goa. A massive temple complex in expanse, we happened to drop by here while on our way to Colva from Netravall. Our visit was unplanned. Hence, our attire was messy, and rain soaked but not as bad that we had to be chased out of the temple by the presiding priest. Therefore, we left without seeing the idol or anything else inside the temple despite having stepped inside.

What happens at the Makarotsav?

The main deity inside the sanctum sanctorum is worshipped in various forms like anthill, wooden sculpture, Kalasa, brass, bronze idols etc. depending on the local legend about the deity. However, the Utsava Moorthi (idol) placed in the Makar is different from that worshipped inside the sanctum.

As a basic feature of all Makarotsavs, the rocking/ swinging of the wooden frame (Makar) to rhythmic sound of the instruments and Aarti is same across all temples. However, the beats of the music and the procedures preceding or succeeding the Utsav differ slightly from temple to temple. Once the swinging ceremony is completed, the following rituals may vary from temple to temple. For example, we witnessed it at two temples.

At the Shri Shanta Durga Shankleshwari temple in Veling, the floral decorations adorning the deity are auctioned among the gathered people. This is a way of raising funds for the upkeep of the temple and its maintenance. The prasad was served where in the devotees had to stand in queue to collect it. At the Shree Lakshmi Narasimha temple, The Prasada was distributed in pre-packed disposable leaf bowls to wherever the devotees were seated even as the Makarotsav was going on. There was no auctioning of anything associated with the temple or the Pooja. Even waste bins were kept across the main hall to collect the waste so that all could leave the premises as soon as the celebration was over and the gates were quickly closed for the day.

While the Makar was adorned and kept ready for viewing of everyone at the Vimleshwar temple by 05.00.p.m., at the other Shanta Durga temples that we visited, the decorated Makar was closed with a curtain and opened for public viewing just before the start of the Aarti. This might be something else in other temples.

If you know any other practice at any other temple that celebrates Makarotsav, share it with me in the comments below.

To be continued as Goa backpacking: Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary.

Andhra Pradesh, Indian Architecture, Statewise Travel, Tamil Nadu

Visiting the Panchabhuta Temples- The Five Elements of Life

January 16, 2026 thelostlander Leave a comment

There are five temples located across Southern Indian states representing the five elements of life or the Panchabhutas. They are built in such a way that the are all aligned in a single latitude and longitude with respect to each other. Through this article, I would like to share a summary of my stories of visiting each of these temples.

1. Jambukeshwara Temple, Tiruvannaikaval representing Water

It all started with a family trip, way back in 2014 to Trichy. I had made a long list of places to visit in and around the temple town, and we happened to visit this temple by chance. It was a beautiful temple where the main Linga is believed to have been created by Goddess Parvathi with water from the nearby river. Today, the Linga is surrounded by a perennial stream of water. (Click here to read about my trip to Trichy)

2. Ekambareshwara temple, Kanchipuram representing Earth

On a casual day trip with my mother to buy some sarees at Kanchipuram, I also made a list of temples to visit in this town which is also known as a ‘City of 100 temples’. Among the long list of sacred places we visited in Kanchipuram, the Ekambareshwara temple was also one. Here, the main Linga is made out of sand and is believed to have been installed by Goddess Parvati. Shiva is a lover of Abhisheka, however due to the nature of the porous & loose sand of the Linga, there is no abhishekam offered here. Instead, offered to another small bronze idol kept beneath it. (Click here to read about my trip to Kanchipuram)

The Sthala Vrushka inside the Ekambareshwara temple

3. Thillai Natarajar temple, Chidambaram representing Space/ Sky

My brother and I happened to explore Chidambaram town during a backpacking trip along the East-coast of Tamil Nadu. We arrived at the temple on time for the first aarti when the doors opened in the evening. We were in the front line when the curtains were raised, and we had a stunning view of the main idol. I instantly felt a compelling energy from the idol in which Lord Shiva is depicted to be performing the Ananda Tandava dance. (Click here to read about my trip to Chidambaram)

One of the temple gopurams and the holy Sivaganga tank at Thillai Natarajar temple

4. Kalahasteeshwara temple, Srikalahasthi representing Air

We halted in this temple town on our way to Sriharikota to watch a rocket launch in 2019. We stood in a long queue to finally get a magical darshana of the Linga here which is made of a massive sized Camphor. Since the camphor is susceptible to fire, there is no direct aarti performed to this Linga. However, an eternal lamp / light is lit behind forming the silhouette of the Linga which indicates that there is continuous flow of air allowing the fire to burn. (Click here to read about my trip to Srikalahasthi)

5. Arunachaleshwara temple, Tiruvannamalai representing Fire

It was indeed a long wait until 2025 when my wish to visit this temple manifested. I got extremely lucky as my visit also coincided with the auspicious Karthika Deepam. I performed the Girivalam before I got the darshan of the Linga, illuminated by oil lamps around inside the sanctorum. The hill itself is believed to be a manifestation of Lord Shiva and the Karthika Deepam, a representation of cosmic fire (Click here to know more about my Girivalam trip)

The Tiru-Annamalai hill in the background of the Arunachaleshwara temple pond

Chattisgarh

Exploring Ramnami Community: A Journey into Tradition

July 18, 2025 thelostlander Leave a comment

Over recent years, my travels across India ignited my fascination with how tattoos hold cultural significance among different Indian communities. In many areas, tattoos serve as symbols tied to tribal customs. One community that particularly intrigued me was the Ramnami of Central India. When I shared this with a friend, she too showed interest in delving deeper into this culture. We eventually connected with a community member who graciously allowed us to visit his village, even inviting us to stay with his family. We happily arranged our visit.

Getting there

We initially flew from Bangalore to Raipur. From there, we caught a local bus to the GPM district. Subsequently, we explored GPM by taxi, which dropped us off at Chandlidih, the Ramnami village. It was raining heavily as we navigated the damaged, flooded roads and finally arrived at the location indicated by Google Maps. We carried our backpacks while crossing a small reservoir wall built over a stream swollen by the monsoon. On the other side was our host’s house. By the time we reached the front yard of the Ramnami family’s modest home, we were covered in mud from puddles stretching from the parking lot to the house.

Welcome to the Ramnami home

Our host welcomed us upon arrival and directed us to the guest room to drop off our luggage. The room, an extension of the main house, was built with cob and wood, offering basic amenities such as two beds for resting and a light bulb for illumination at night. We relied on mobile internet throughout our stay. According to tradition, anyone visiting from outside must bathe and cleanse themselves before entering a Ramnami home. The next experience was something my friend and I will both remember for a long time: the bathroom!

It was a simple enclosure with two and a half walls and a roof. Half of the third wall was intentionally built to shoulder height, making it easy to bring in water from outside either with buckets or through a gravity pipe connected to a nearby perennial stream that filled a concrete tank inside the bathroom. The fourth side was left open for easy access, featuring a modest saree stitched into a sliding blind that could be moved to open or close. There was no running water; hot water had to be fetched from an outdoor firewood oven, or one had to make do with the chilly water stored in the tank inside. Our city dwelling bodies were used to a sturdy lockable door for bathing with unlimited hot water from a tap or shower. While the cold-water setup was tolerable for my outdoor spirit, I could not imagine standing unclothed inside a doorless bathroom.

If I were hiking, I could go days without bathing, but here, it was crucial to start our trip by experiencing the Ramnami culture. Hesitantly, I took off my clothes and poured a couple of mugs of water, just as I heard giggles outside. I paused to check if I was imagining things or if it was real. Soon, I saw the shadows of a few kids moving behind the curtain. As I began applying soap, I saw two toddler heads peeking in from the sides of the curtain, giggling again. I panicked, yelled my friend’s name, and hoped she would come to help. She got scared and ran over to see what was wrong. I told her about the curious kids, and she decided to stay at the bathroom entrance until I finished. Later, I returned the favor.

After changing into fresh clothes, my friend and I headed to the porch of their house, where the entire family had been singing hymns of Lord Ram since sunrise, even before we arrived. We greeted them with a coconut and some fresh flowers, which we were asked to bring as part of their tradition of introducing a new guest to the family. Most adults had tattoos reading ‘Ram-Ram’ in Hindi covering their bodies. Some had full-body tattoos, while others had only face, arm, or forehead patches. They all wore pure white clothes handwritten with ‘Ram-Ram’ patterns. Their Dhotis, shawls, and headgear featured the same ‘Ram’ writing in a consistent style. The handmade headgear, unique to the Ramnami, was decorated with peacock feathers. All participants in the Ram bhajan carried strings of small jingling metal bells, each stamped with ‘Ram’ during casting.

We introduced ourselves and joined their Bhajan until lunch was served. I savored a simple Satvik meal made with ingredients from their farm. The faint aroma of firewood used in cooking enhanced the local flavors with a divine touch.

Daily utility items and life of the Ramnamis

Exploring the daily life of the Ramnamis

We traveled without a fixed schedule, aiming for a slow, immersive experience of this community’s daily life. After lunch, my friend and I joined members singing Ram Bhajans on the porch to understand what defines the Ramnami. We were transported back to the 1890s to learn about their history. Like the rest of India at that time, casteism barred lower castes from entering shared places of worship. Some rebelled by declaring their bodies as temples dedicated to Ram, tattooing the Ram-Nam (Lord’s Name) with a locally made ink derived from herbs. They formed the Ramnami community. A senior member leads events, whether a baby’s birth or a funeral. Their greetings and farewells are solely marked by singing Ram-Bhajans, even during major life events like marriages. They do not conduct any Brahminical rituals, poojas, or havans as part of their practices.

A portrait of a Ramnami community member

With the rain gods commanding the skies and earth, we saw them prepare their shawls, made from woven, stitched white cloth they crafted themselves. These shawls were then covered with Ram-Nam. After carefully observing them write with their native ink for a while, we joined in to write on some of the other pieces. Once finished, they set them aside to dry, initiating a series of procedures to prevent the white cloth from bleeding black.

When the rains stopped, our host guided us through their village. We crossed a stream, carefully walked along the paddy field edges, and eventually made our way along muddy, winding roads. We met several members of the Ramnami community, mostly relatives or neighbors from the same village. We greeted women working in the fields and enjoyed coffee at welcoming houses. Later, we visited JayaStambh, a small monument commemorating the annual Ramnami mela held here a few years prior. Some older community members joined us there at sunset, singing Ram bhajans as a tribute to the setting sun. Afterwards, we visited a small reservoir across the lake. The Ram Bhajans, sung warmly around a bonfire, echoed over the calm water, with the sky changing colors dramatically until nightfall.

The evening prayers at the Ramnami Jayastambh

We walked home carefully through the night darkness to avoid slipping on the slush. After a satisfying dinner, we drifted into a peaceful, childlike sleep, concluding a long and exhausting day.

The following morning, we rose early to witness a normal day in the life of the Ramnami. We went to the reservoir with the elder members of our host family, who offered prayers to the sun god and recited blessings before their water dip. After changing into clean clothes, they went back home to continue household tasks such as cleaning, preparing food, and having breakfast.

Conclusion

Spending time at a Ramnami home offered a genuine glimpse into a culture that is remarkably different from the rest of India. The younger Ramnami generation might not be eager to follow the traditional paths laid out by their elders. However, this community exemplifies how faith in God can help us overcome great challenges. They defied the odds, forging their path, which they believe will lead them to a divine connection.

After a simple breakfast and Ram Bhajans, we packed our bags for our next destination in Chhattisgarh. Our host assisted us with pillion rides on two motorbikes, skimming over the slushy village roads before reaching the highway, where we caught a local bus to continue our journey.