There are five temples located across Southern Indian states representing the five elements of life or the Panchabhutas. They are built in such a way that the are all aligned in a single latitude and longitude with respect to each other. Through this article, I would like to share a summary of my stories of visiting each of these temples.
1. Jambukeshwara Temple, Tiruvannaikaval representing Water
It all started with a family trip, way back in 2014 to Trichy. I had made a long list of places to visit in and around the temple town, and we happened to visit this temple by chance. It was a beautiful temple where the main Linga is believed to have been created by Goddess Parvathi with water from the nearby river. Today, the Linga is surrounded by a perennial stream of water. (Click here to read about my trip to Trichy)
On a casual day trip with my mother to buy some sarees at Kanchipuram, I also made a list of temples to visit in this town which is also known as a ‘City of 100 temples’. Among the long list of sacred places we visited in Kanchipuram, the Ekambareshwara temple was also one. Here, the main Linga is made out of sand and is believed to have been installed by Goddess Parvati. Shiva is a lover of Abhisheka, however due to the nature of the porous & loose sand of the Linga, there is no abhishekam offered here. Instead, offered to another small bronze idol kept beneath it. (Click here to read about my trip to Kanchipuram)
The Sthala Vrushka inside the Ekambareshwara temple
My brother and I happened to explore Chidambaram town during a backpacking trip along the East-coast of Tamil Nadu. We arrived at the temple on time for the first aarti when the doors opened in the evening. We were in the front line when the curtains were raised, and we had a stunning view of the main idol. I instantly felt a compelling energy from the idol in which Lord Shiva is depicted to be performing the Ananda Tandava dance. (Click here to read about my trip to Chidambaram)
One of the temple gopurams and the holy Sivaganga tank at Thillai Natarajar temple
4. Kalahasteeshwara temple, Srikalahasthi representing Air
We halted in this temple town on our way to Sriharikota to watch a rocket launch in 2019. We stood in a long queue to finally get a magical darshana of the Linga here which is made of a massive sized Camphor. Since the camphor is susceptible to fire, there is no direct aarti performed to this Linga. However, an eternal lamp / light is lit behind forming the silhouette of the Linga which indicates that there is continuous flow of air allowing the fire to burn. (Click here to read about my trip to Srikalahasthi)
5. Arunachaleshwara temple, Tiruvannamalai representing Fire
It was indeed a long wait until 2025 when my wish to visit this temple manifested. I got extremely lucky as my visit also coincided with the auspicious Karthika Deepam. I performed the Girivalam before I got the darshan of the Linga, illuminated by oil lamps around inside the sanctorum. The hill itself is believed to be a manifestation of Lord Shiva and the Karthika Deepam, a representation of cosmic fire (Click here to know more about my Girivalam trip)
The Tiru-Annamalai hill in the background of the Arunachaleshwara temple pond
Mythology has it that Brahma and Vishnu got into an argument over their supremacies and finally sought Shiva’s help to resolve the issue. Shiva then created a cosmic column of fire and asked Brahma and Vishnu to find the end of the fire. Whoever found its end would be declared as the supreme god. Bramha went towards Akaasha and Vishnu went towards Pathaala to find the top and bottom ends respectively. However, both returned unsuccessful, thus renouncing Shiva to be supreme. This place came to be called Arunachala hill or Tiruvannamalai. The name of the hill is derived by combining three Tamil words, Thiru- meaning sacred, Vann meaning fire, and Malai meaning mountain, thus meaning “the holy fire mountain”.
Girivalam, also called as Giri Pradakshina is a combination of two words, ‘Giri’ meaning mountain and ‘Valam’ meaning circumambulation. It is a sacred walk covering an approximate distance of 14-kilometer in the clockwise direction around the Arunachala Hill in Tiruvannamalai town of Tamil Nadu. Since the hill is considered a physical manifestation of Lord Shiva, conducting the Giri Pradakshina is believed to offer spiritual purification and liberation.
To commemorate the day of establishing Shiva’s supremacy, a large bonfire is lit atop the hill during the Karthika month of the Tamil calendar. This Karthigai Deepam lit on the previous night of the full moon symbolizes Shiva’s cosmic fire and burns continuously for the next eleven days attracting millions of devotees from all over for this annual festival.
The Rajagopuram on a full moon night of Karthika month
How to do Girivalam?
The Pradakshina must start and end at the same spot, usually at the east entrance tower of the Arunachaleshwara temple located at the foothills.
Start the Pradakshina by visiting the Kalabhairava and Ganesha shrines, followed by breaking a coconut in front of the east Gopuram of the Arunachaleshwara temple.
Traditionally done barefoot, it is not wrong if one opts to wear just socks or footwear during the walk and removed before entering the temples passing along the path.
A visit to the Ashta Lingam shrines and other significant temples along the way is believed to enhance the benefits.
Girivalam can be conducted on any day and time of the year. However, offering it on full-moon days is considered more auspicious.
The Girivalam route map
When did I go?
Since my friend and I had been contemplating doing Girivalam for a very long time, it was a spontaneous decision to perform it as the last full-moon day of the 2025 calendar year, and a weekend had arrived together. Coincidentally, it also happened to be the Karthika Month and hence, the Karthika deepam would be lit over the eleven-day period.
We chose to go there on a Friday, which was a day after the full moon, assuming that the crowd of the full moon day would have subsided and the weekend crowd wouldn’t have poured in yet. It turned out to be a smart decision.
There are plenty and frequent public buses run by Karnataka and Tamil-Nadu Road transportation services. We boarded a TNSRTC bus onwards to Tiruvannamalai and KSRTC bus for our return to Bangalore, both without prior bookings.
We arrived at Tiruvannamalai at around 07.00.p.m. had a filling dinner and retired early at a hotel we had pre-booked close to the east tower of the temple.
We started our pradakshina by around 03.45.a.m. and finished it by 08.00.am.
We stood in the ticketed queue for Darshana and were done by noon we ate temple prasada (more like brunch).
We then checked out of our hotel and reached Bangalore by night.
The flower decoration on the inside of the Arunachaleshwara temple on occasion of Karthika deepam
Some tips from my first Girivalam experience
The temple closes at night and opens by 06:00. a.m. and there will be a long queue for the Darshan. Hence, it is best advised to reach the temple gate as early as possible to get the earliest darshan with the shortest queue.
It is best to do the Pradakshina after sunset and finish it before sunrise to avoid the blazing sun- but also time it well to be able to visit the Ashta Lingams while they too are open.
I highly recommend buying the 50Rs. special entry ticket to reduce the walking distance in the queue and thus a faster Darshana.
Book a stay as closer to the East Gopuram as possible. This will help to reduce the overall walking distance and ease the accessibility to the Girivalam path.
I chose to skip going through the Moksha dwara, a small structure along the path. The queue was extremely long.
If possible, offer small donations to as many sanyasis and beggars sitting along the path. It will enhance the benefits of your prayers.
There are ample food stalls, water stations and clean public toilets all along the way to keep you going. However, we chose to break our fast only with the temple Prasada after the Darshana was completed.
The entire walk will be on an asphalted road / paved footpath. So, expect littering to be normal.
Other noteworthy things to do and places to see during Girivalam
Do not miss eating the Pongal and Puliyogare (Tamarind rice) at the paid prasada counter at the exit of the temple. It tastes delicious.
Check the timings of the free meals served at the Ramanashram, or simply pay a visit there to experience calmness.
You can walk a small distance from the Skandashram to reach a viewpoint where you can see the entire temple premise and Gopurams from.
Do not miss the Rudraksha beads distributed for free by volunteers anywhere along the Girivalam path.
The deity and the structure of the Ardhanareeshwara temple were unique.
Observe how the direction of the Nandi changes in each temple depending on the direction of the holy hill with respect to the location of the Nandi, it always faces the mountain: The Arunachalar.
If you’re visiting Tiruvannamalai anytime after ‘Arudra Darshana’ (next full moon after Karthika Deepam, Do not miss collecting the holy Arudra Kajal / Kohl from the temple. It is made from the soot formed by the ‘Karthika deepam’ itself and will be distributed until stocks are available each year.
The front and back view of the Ardhanareeshwara temple
Do you have anything to share or ask about Girivalam? Comment below.
On yet another weekend, we were off on yet another hiking expedition. This time, we went to a lesser-known trail on Hosur-Krishnagiri road. The initial plan was to hike to āAiyur Sami Lakeā, a day hike organized by the Eco-tourism wing of the Tamil-Nadu tourism department. However, their site was not accepting registrations due to unknown reasons, and hence, we decided to randomly pick a hill around the region on Google Maps and hike it up. Thatās when we came across the Ankushagiri fort.
Following the route indicated on Google Maps, we arrived at the base of the start point of the ascent to Ankushagiri. There is a Perumal temple and, hence, a proper space for vehicle parking. Since we arrived on a Saturday morning in the winter months, some pilgrims had already arrived to worship the chief deity here. However, we skipped the temple visit and began our hike toward the fort that was located (once upon a time) on the hilltop.
The ruins of the ancient temple at the base of Ankushagiri Hike
At the beginning of the hike route, there is an ancient structure, now in a dilapidated condition. Today, the Sanctorum lay empty with wild bushes and creepers taking over what once must have been a grand temple. The motifs on the walls of the two adjacent temple structures indicated both Perumal and Shiva.
The ruins of the ancient temple at the base of Ankushagiri Hike
We went ahead from there and stopped after a brief walk. We were confused about the correct trail which seemed to split at a point from where either of them needed some more wear. We casually picked a path and continued to walk on the trail where the thorny bushes then opened to a rocky terrain. The rock looked interesting with varying patterns all over.
At the top, there were massive cacti plants dotting the area around an abandoned ancient temple structure. Only the pillars remained with the tall Garuda stambha lying down on the side and a stoneware that appeared to be an urn or a waterpot. Some previous visitors to this place had written ‘Someshwara Swamy Temple’ on the stoneware pot for our reference. We rested beside the temple on the large open rock bed overlooking the landscape. The gentle wind caressed our faces while we watched the hills appear one by one at a distance amid the clearing fog.
The ruins of Someshwara Swamy temple at the peak of Ankushagiri fort
After relaxing for a while and munching on some fruits and nuts that we had carried with us, we proceeded toward the next part of the hill. The trail was beautiful with a rocky gorge on one side and huge cacti lining the path on the other. There, we arrived at a single electric pole that stood in the middle of a heap of ruins of what appeared to be an old fort. Although a circular marking can still be seen to date, only a few large pillars, a few hero-stones like inscriptions, and a couple of kolam designs engraved on the floor were all that existed for us to decipher what might have been the real grandeur, expanse and the purpose of the structure there. Almost little to no history is available to us about who or how this place had served.
Ankushagiri Hike
Anyway, it was a very interesting outing for us to explore a place so lost in an area where we were the only humans in kilometers around us. We spent ample time there before descending back to the base. We photographed several other patterns on the rocks before arriving at the same bushy junction where we had chosen to take the random path for our ascent.
Upon our return, we paid a quick visit to the Perumal temple before heading back to the city.
This story is from quite some time ago. My friend was tracking the arrival season of the flamingoes at Pulicat lake. He had an acquaintance of a Mr. Illaiyaraja, a fisherman who lived in Pulicat village. Through him, we got regular updates on the arrival of these seasonal beauties (flamingoes) who flocked to the brackish lake during their migration period. Meanwhile, our family was planning a drive to Sriharikota, to watch the launch of Chandrayaan 2. Thatās another story altogether, you can read it here.
A week prior to our road trip, Mr. Illaiyaraja telephoned my friend and told him, āAnna, flamingoes vandichi.ā loosely translating to āBrother, the flamingoes have arrivedā, in Tamil. So, a drive to Lake Pulicat became a part of our road trip as well. Our family took our old reliable friend (Our Tata Indica) out on the road and prepped it for the long road trip. It was as if time was bringing all things together in our favor. The flamingoes had arrived, the rocket was set for its launch and the roads were calling us.
Pulicat village gets its name from Lake Pulicat, the second largest brackish water lagoon in India on whose banks is this tiny fishing hamlet. The lake itself is so vast that it is spans across Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. We approached Pulicat from the Tamil Nadu side. After exploring all the places enroute, we parked our car at the entrance of the village and walked by following google maps to the location where we were supposed to meet Mr. Illaiyaraja. With a can of diesel in his hand, he led us to his wooden boat anchored at the jetty. We boarded the boat with him and set off on an unforgettable experience of sailing on a sea-like vast lake, to see.
The birds at Lake Pulicat
Aquatic birds and shore birds that had migrated down from far across the globe birds to the Pulicat lake birdsā sanctuary. Pelicans, painted storks, kingfishers, herons, spoonbills, egrets, ducks, terns, gulls and several other species hovered on and off around us. But the peace within us came when the sound of the motorized boat came to a mute and there was an endless visual of the lake merging with the sky in a shade of āpinkā. The greater flamingoes nesting peacefully in an unexplainable size of the flock. We spent quality time just watching them for a good hour or so before the sun started to turn the sky in hues of red.
We returned to the bank and continued to drive in the direction of Sriharikota. While we were exiting from the village and were at a traffic signal waiting to enter the highway, my eyes fell on an interesting but ignored piece of construction by the roadside. I decided to go near and noticed that the entry gates were locked. The architecture style was different than anything I had seen before in the region and some strange alphabets were engraved on its entrance arches. Although interesting, it still seemed eerie and gave me some sense of it being an old, abandoned site of a graveyard. Since it was locked, I clicked a few pictures of the place from outside and returned to the car and continued our drive to Sriharikota.
Top: Lake Pulicat enroute to SHAR in winter; Lake in Summer
When I looked it up on the internet, I found some interesting information about that old site I had just visited. There are about five main settlements dating back to the Dutch era across India namely at Gujarat (Surat), Kerala (Cochin), Andhra Pradesh (Machilipatnam), Tamil Nadu (Pulicat) and West Bengal (Hooghly) where forts or cemeteries can be found. This day, I had visited a Dutch cemetery which used to be a part of Fort Geldria or Fort Geldaria at Pulicat. Pulicat was the seat of the Dutch Republic’s first settlement in India, and the capital of Dutch Coromandel. This fort was the only fortification in the Indian empire whereas all other positions of the Dutch Company were trading posts. today, this cemetery houses about 76 tombstones, mostly carved in the Netherlands.
The Dutch cemetery at Pulicat
It is interesting how I came across a random site that holds so much historical importance in Indiaās history of colonization and it is also unfortunate that how inaccessible or neglected are these sites that holds stories of an era bygone. Thus, the sun had set on Pulicat ending our quick visit to this lakeside settlement.
India, with its rich history, diverse landscapes, and vibrant culture, offers a plethora of romantic experiences for couples. Whether youāre newlyweds on a honeymoon or partners looking to rekindle your romance, India provides the perfect backdrop for unforgettable moments. Picture yourselves cruising through Keralaās serene backwaters on a houseboat, exploring the majestic palaces of Rajasthan, relaxing on the sun-kissed beaches of Goa, or trekking the scenic hills of Uttarakhand. Envision witnessing the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal, experiencing the serene charm of Kashmirās valleys, wandering through the lush tea gardens of Darjeeling, and discovering the rich cultural heritage of South India. Each destination offers a unique blend of romance, adventure, and tranquility, making India an ideal choice for creating cherished memories with your loved one. Here are the eight best things to do in India with your partner.
1. Cruise the Backwaters of Kerala
Kerala, often referred to as “God’s Own Country,” is a paradise for couples. A 5-day Kerala tour package is perfect for exploring the serene backwaters, lush greenery, and tranquil beaches. Start your journey with a houseboat cruise on the backwaters of Alleppey or Kumarakom. The houseboats, equipped with modern amenities, offer a unique experience as you drift through the calm waters, surrounded by coconut groves and paddy fields. Enjoy the picturesque views, indulge in delicious Kerala cuisine, and relax in the peaceful ambiance with your partner.
The Shikara cruise in the narrow canals of Alleppey
2. Explore the Royal Heritage of Rajasthan
Rajasthan, known for its royal heritage and grand palaces, offers a romantic escape into the past. Visit the stunning city of Udaipur, often called the “Venice of the East.” Take a boat ride on Lake Pichola, visit the magnificent City Palace, and stroll through the colorful markets. Jaipur, the Pink City, is another must-visit with its impressive forts and palaces. Stay at one of the heritage hotels to experience royal hospitality. The desert city of Jaisalmer, with its golden sand dunes, offers an adventurous yet romantic camel safari under the starlit sky.
3. Relax on the Beaches of Goa
Goa, with its sun-kissed beaches, vibrant nightlife, and laid-back vibe, is an ideal destination for couples. Spend your days lounging on the sandy shores, swimming in the azure waters, and enjoying beachside meals. For a more secluded experience, head to the beaches of South Goa like Palolem and Agonda. Explore the charming streets of Old Goa, visit the famous churches, and indulge in water sports for an adrenaline rush. As the sun sets, the beach shacks come alive with music and dance, offering a perfect end to a romantic day.
4. Trek the Hills of Uttarakhand
Uttarakhand, with its scenic beauty and tranquil environment, is a haven for couples who love nature and adventure. A 10-day Uttarakhand tour package can take you through the stunning hill stations of Nainital, Mussoorie, and Ranikhet. Enjoy boating on Naini Lake, take a cable car ride to Gun Hill, and explore the lush forests and waterfalls. For a spiritual experience, visit the holy towns of Haridwar and Rishikesh, and attend the evening Ganga Aarti. If youāre into trekking, the Valley of Flowers and Chopta Tungnath treks offer breathtaking views and an unforgettable experience.
5. Witness the Romance of the Taj Mahal
No trip to India is complete without visiting the iconic Taj Mahal in Agra. This magnificent white marble mausoleum, built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, stands as a symbol of eternal love. Walk hand in hand with your partner through the beautifully manicured gardens, and admire the intricate architecture and craftsmanship. For a magical experience, visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise or sunset when the monument is bathed in a golden hue, creating a truly romantic atmosphere.
6. Experience the Serenity of Kashmir
Kashmir, often described as “Paradise on Earth,” is a dream destination for couples. Stay in a traditional houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar, and enjoy a shikara ride amidst the floating gardens and vibrant markets. Visit the Mughal Gardens, and take a stroll through the fragrant blooms. In winter, Gulmarg transforms into a winter wonderland, offering skiing and snowboarding opportunities. The pristine beauty of Pahalgam and Sonmarg, with their lush meadows, sparkling rivers, and snow-capped peaks, provide a perfect setting for romance.
Our Land rover Defender with the ‘Sleeping Buddha’ in the Background at Sandakphu
7. Enjoy the Tea Gardens of Darjeeling
Darjeeling, with its rolling tea gardens and stunning views of the Himalayas, offers a peaceful retreat for couples. Take a ride on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and enjoy the scenic journey. Visit the tea estates, where you can walk through the lush plantations and learn about the tea-making process. The Tiger Hill viewpoint offers breathtaking sunrise views over the Kanchenjunga range. Explore the vibrant local markets, and donāt miss out on tasting the delicious momos and local delicacies.
8. Discover the Vibrant Culture of South India
South India, with its rich cultural heritage, ancient temples, and beautiful landscapes, is perfect for a romantic getaway. Visit the temples of Tamil Nadu, such as the Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur and the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai, known for their architectural brilliance. Explore the backwaters and beaches of Kerala, and take a trip to the hill stations of Munnar and Wayanad. In Karnataka, the historical sites of Hampi and the royal city of Mysore offer a blend of history and romance. The serene beaches of Pondicherry and the French colonial charm make it a unique destination.
The Brihadeeshwaran temple at the backdrop
Plan Your Kerala and Uttarakhand Tours
When planning your romantic getaway in India, consider Kerala tour packages for 5 days and Uttarakhand tour packages for 10 days to make the most of these beautiful regions. In Kerala, opt for packages that include houseboat cruises, beach stays, and visits to hill stations like Munnar and Thekkady. For Uttarakhand, look for packages that cover the hill stations, spiritual towns, and trekking destinations to experience the diverse offerings of this picturesque state.
Conclusion
India, with its diverse landscapes and rich cultural heritage, offers endless possibilities for romantic escapades. Whether youāre cruising the backwaters of Kerala, witnessing the grandeur of the Taj Mahal, or trekking the hills of Uttarakhand, each experience promises to bring you closer to your partner. So, pack your bags and embark on a journey of love and adventure in this incredible country.
It was an online link that led me to a few photographs of a rare celebration. The images were accompanied by very little write-up for me to get a clear idea about the occasion. All I could infer was that it was a festival called āPadai Kavadi,ā celebrated in a village called Valangaiman, near Kumbakonam in Tamil Nadu.
I reached out to a few friends from Tamil Nadu who, in turn, connected with their acquaintances from the region and gave me information that the festival is celebrated annually, on the second Sunday of the Palguni month as per the Tamil calendar. Since I had ample time, I could meticulously plan my itinerary for that weekend and wait for my arrival at Kumbakonam. I had earlier visited Kumbakonam, so I included a few places that I could not cover in my previous trip. But that is for another story. For now, the focus is on āthe Valangaiman Padai Kavadi festival.ā
What is the festival about?
For a South Indian in general, one might think the Kavadi festival happens in every other village during this season. So, what got me curious about this place? Well, this Kavadi festival at Valangaiman celebrates the rebirth of a person. As per the local belief, people suffering from smallpox (still considered a deadly illness in most parts of India) make a vow at the Sri Padaikatti Maha Mariamman temple to perform the Padai Kavadi if cured. Once completely cured, they believe they have seen death and returned. Therefore, the convalesced person is made to lay on a bier or a handbarrow, lifted and carried by pallbearers, and the entire ceremony or the ritual of a traditional funeral is conducted as if he/she were dead.
There are primarily two types of biers. One, a simple yellow cloth tied to a bundle of sugarcanes or a single sturdy bamboo that is used as a cradle for kids and carried by two men on either end; second, a handbarrow with two bamboo culms knitted together with coconut fronds on which an adult convalesced is carried by four men. The adult bier is made more elaborate and decorative depending upon the interest and financial status of the person offering his vow.
An adult-female laying on a bier at Valangaiman Paadai Kavadi festival
I was told that three sister goddesses are living (at dedicated temples) in parallel streets of the village. The kavadi (usually body piercings or holy water carried in decorated pots on heads) is offered as vows to all three sisters, but the Padai Kavadi (the resumption of the dead, celebrated by sleeping on a bier) is offered only to Sri Padaikatti Maha Mariamman, the second among the three sisters, during the auspicious day of Palguni month.
A child being carried on a bier at the Valangaiman Paadai Kavadi festival
What happens on the festival day?
The procession of the convalesced people lying on biers starts early morning, mostly to avoid the noon sun. One can find hundreds of devotees who gather either at the small shrine of Vinayakan on the banks of the river Kudamurti or at a dozen makeshift temporary shrines set up by various local priests on the dried riverbed. Here, the bier, the person supposed to lay on it, and the respective kith and kin assemble for the rituals. Each person offering their vow is made to sleep on the bier after their family deity is invoked. Their eyes, nose, and mouth are closed with yellow cotton fabric, hands and legs are tied together as if those of dead people lying in coffins. Holy water is sprinkled around, and all the people gathering touch the feet of the sleeping person to take his/her blessings before the pallbearers carry them for the procession towards the Mariamman temple. For as long as a convalesced person is sleeping on the bier, he/she is treated equivalent to God as they are someone who has neared death, seen God, and returned. Then, a person carrying a clay pot with burning wood and incense leads the procession, and one with a pot full of water trails them, all being accompanied by drumbeats and flower throwers.
A funeral entourage going towards Padikatti Maha Mariamman temple
The procession circumambulates the Mariamman temple thrice, and then the bier is lowered down in front of the temple. Rituals are performed, post which the person descends from it and goes inside the temple to see the goddess and complete his vow. This is about the Padai Kavadi for people who survived death.
An adult man being carried on a bier at Valangaiman Paadai Kavadi festival
However, people who have suffered other ailments also make vows to offer a replica of the body part/ organ that has been cured through their prayers to Mariamman. One can see models in clay or silver, like eyes, legs, hands, etc., being sold around and offered by people at the temple, depending on their cured illnesses.
Apart from this, one can also see several people with various kinds of body piercings walking on the road (which is also a form of Kavadi) and circumambulating the three sister temples to offer their vows and prayers. A man suspended from a crane with his back hooked with metal loops and circumambulated around and in front of the temple, some men with full torsos pierced with lemons, long and heavy tridents passed through both cheeks, etc., were some of the unique and different Kavadi offerings I witnessed here. A detailed post of a dedicated festival of body piercings called āMayana Kolaiā is available on my blog for further reading.
Body piercings at Valangaiman Paadai Kavadi festival
After all the kavadi offerings are over, the presiding deity, Goddess Padaikatti Maha Mariamman, is then brought out of the temple by around 03.00.p.m. on a procession. Around that time, cattle (goats and sheep) and poultry donated by the devotees are tied to another central post that is erected in front of the temple and suspended up and down with their bodies held firmly in the center. I could not gather sufficient information about the significance of this ritual, but I would be glad to learn from any of my readers here.
A devotee with body piercings; Also the wooden post used to swing cattle hoisted infront of the Padikatti Maha Mariamman temple
The festival then culminates after the deity returns inside the temple.
When a friend mentioned taking a road trip to a fair at Anthiyur village, neither of us had many expectations. What can one expect at a village festival in India, after all? All that we had learnt before commencing our road trip was that it was a cattle fair, which was held as part of the annual festival of the Gurunathaswamy temple at Anthiyur village. Supplemented by a handful of YouTube videos in Tamil, we decided to take the long drive from Bangalore to spend a weekend.
We started from Bangalore before dawn to reach Anthiyur at the earliest and get sufficient time to see all the cattle stalls before returning. But only to our surprise, the scale of this temple village fair was anything beyond our imagination. Neither of us had seen or heard of a small village festival to be of such a large scale and spread.
The beautiful hills around Anthiyur village
Mythology of Anthiyur Gurunathar temple:
The story dates to around 600 years, when there lived a clan near Pichavaram forest, that worshipped three stones known as āKutty Aandavarā (translates to āSmall Godā, in Tamil). The local ruler wanted to marry the priest’s daughter. However, the priestās family was against the marriage proposal. Meanwhile, one of the members of the priestās clan gets possessed by their deityās spirit, and the family is told to abandon the village along with the three prayer stones to avoid the outrage of the rulerās anger. Following this, the family started to move north until they found a safe place to settle down. At some point, the family felt that their survival was going to be difficult and that the stones being carried by them were an additional burden. Hence, they continued their journey by throwing the stones into a nearby pond. They halted at Anthiyur for the night.
On the following morning, Santhakumaran (one of the family members) was surprised to find the same three stones back in his bag. They realized the powers of their deity and resumed worship of the stones by giving them three different names. The first stone was called Kamatchi, the second one was Perumal (Vishnu), and the last one was Gurunatha Swamy (a combination of Shiva and Kantha).
During the festival, three deities are taken on a procession from the main shrine at Anthiyur village to a temple in the nearby forest. As per mythology, a demon is believed to have occupied the forest in which Goddess Kamatchiamman wanted to reside. A fierce war was then fought between Veerabhadra (the warrior assistant of the Lord, protector of Kamatchi-amman) and the demon, in which the demon eventually surrendered. It is said that instead of leaving the forest, the demon requested lord Gurunathar to allow him to stay there on a condition that Kamatchiamman came there once a year to visit him. However, Veerabhadra agreed to this on the condition that he, too, was allowed to stay in the same forest. This temple is today called Vanakovil (translates to āTemple in the forestā in Tamil), where Kamatchiamman is brought in a palanquin from the main temple.
The history of the Anthiyur temple festival
The current temple structure is believed to have been built by the Pandya kings. The Gurunathar temple houses an 11*11*11 feet kulukai. A kulukai is a large earthen storage container mainly used for storing food grains, with a large opening at the top (to fill the container) and a small vent at the bottom (to take the grains out for consumption). It is believed that the kulukai in this temple is used to store the jewels and other items related to worship, and is guarded by snakes. Only the head priest is allowed to enter the container and access the stored things, and is unharmed by the guarding snakes. Therefore, this kulukai is worshipped by the local people and it is believed to keep them safe from reptiles, scorpions, etc.
The month-long temple festival held during the Aadi month of the Tamil calendar hosts a range of unique rituals and celebrations during this time. Temple cars built for each deity are prepared and managed by the respective caste of people. Two large, towering, nicely decorated temple cars (the largest is of Gurunathaswamy and the smaller is of Perumal Swamy) are pulled by thousands of devotees who gather from across the nearby villages, from the main Gurunathaswamy temple to the Vanakovil and back. Today, animal sacrifice is practiced in Vanakovil.
The history of the Anthiyur cattle fair
A four-day-long cattle fair is, however, the highlight of the festival for which people come from across the districts of Tamil Nadu and the states of India. There are only two cattle fairs held at this scale in India. First, at Anthiyur (more popular for the horse fair) and second, at Pushkar in Rajasthan (Primarily a Camel fair). The history of the āKudurai Santhaiā (the Horse fair) dates to the times when Tipu Sultan was the ruler of Mysore. He visited this cattle market to buy the best horses for his cavalry and sold his horses that were no longer fit for battles.
It has, over time, gained popularity among horse enthusiasts across the country who consider buying horses from this market as a matter of pride and prestige. The cost of each horse can range anywhere between 50 thousand to 50 lakhs rupees. Today, apart from buying and selling horses at the āKudurai Santhaiā, many horse owners come here to simply display their prized possessions. One gets to see stallions, mares, sires, and ponies of various native indigenous and pure breeds here. Some horses are made to perform to drumbeats and kept on exhibition. On the last day of the four-day-long āhorse fairā, Geegees are judged based on their structure, build, and looks, and finally, awards are given away. On the day we visited in 2023, there were over 1000 horses at the fair brought in for various purposes.
All accessories, equipment, and other things that are associated with horse-keeping and equestrian training can be found and are sold here. Apart from horses, this fair is also the largest marketplace in India for other breeds of cattle and livestock like cows, goats, sheep, camels, rabbits, dogs, and birds. With encouragement given to native breeds, it is a great experience to see cattle across the 34+ acres of land.
Largest Makeshift Amusement Park:
To supplement the cattle markets, there is a makeshift amusement park set up, which is also by far the largest makeshift amusement park I have ever seen. Over ten giant wheels, rollercoasters, circus tents, and at least three globes of death are set up among several other types of amusement rides. The energy and ecstasy of this fair is all together only to be witnessed rather than to be read about.
The makeshift amusement park at Anthiyur festival
Souvenirs bought:
Bamboo staff- You will find people buying them, as it is considered auspicious to keep this weapon of Gurunathar Swamy at home.
Colorful horse whips
Horseshoes- this is believed to absorb negative energy if hung at the entrance of houses.
Disclaimer: This article is posted to document folklore and lesser-known festivals of India. If any mistakes are found, it could be based on what was heard as stories. Kindly comment below or message directly for any corrections required.
Another weekend and another offbeat destination. This time, we found a temple on a small hillock in Dharmapuri district of Tamil Nadu. In my earlier post about Hogeynakal waterfalls, I have elaborated on how river Kaveri marks the boundary between the two states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. This post is somewhat related to the same connection. Because the history of the temple that we were planning to visit this weekend is rooted on the other side of the river, on the fertile plains of Karnataka.
The original Ranganatha swamy temple dating to the Cholas or the Vijayanagara era (as described by the locals) was on the Karnataka side. The stone structure of the temple is present even today (we hope to visit the structure on another weekend trip). The idol of the deity was destroyed by the British (which needs fact checking) and then, a new idol was reinstated on the Tamil Nadu side of the land where it stands today. The Ranganatha Swamy temple that we were heading to is in Biligundlu village and hence the name. The idol of the deity is carved out of a rock which is part of the hill overlooking the river.
On a summer day, when the water levels in the river are low, one can walk across to the other bank. Whereas, when the river is flowing full, the roads leading to both the old and the new temples are long ones. The old location is reachable via MM. hills in Chamarajanagar district of Karnataka, and the new temple is reachable via Anchetty forests in Dharmapuri district in Tamil Nadu.
The trail to Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple
Anyway, coming back to this weekend, we started early on a weekend morning along the Anchetty forest leading to Hogeynakal waterfalls. We skipped the highway restaurants and stopped by a small local restaurant in Anchetty town for breakfast. It was a good decision as the experience was good with local food and the local atmosphere.
A few kilometers after the Biligundlu cemetery and few kilometers before Hogeynakal waterfalls, we stopped by at a location where river Kaveri flowed onto our right and a tiny structure of brick and mortar was built onto our leftā¦ We parked our vehicle there and started our short hike up from there. A properly laid stone path is there all the way to the hilltop which took us around half an hour to hike. The views of the river and hills around were just amazing all the way.
The Ganesha idol at the peak of Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple hill
First, we were greeted by an idol of Ganesha sitting under the tree at the peak. This spot gave a splendid view of the river and the hills beyond. We sought Ganeshaās blessings and proceeded to the Ranganatha temple located below, connected by a short flight of stairs. The temple was closed by the time we arrived. However, we could see the idol through the meshed gate. After offering our prayers, we found a spot adjacent to the temple wall and sat there to soak in the beauty of the place. The view of river Kaveri flowing with a backdrop of green rolling hills looked amazing even as the winds caressed our faces. It was a beautiful place, indeed!
We headed back after a while and decided to take a dip in the shallow waters of the river to beat the summer sun. A word of caution if you plan to get into the river, that there will be a sudden drop in the depth at many spots and it is believed to have whirlpools as well. We stayed by the shores before calling it a day after a while.
Although this destination is a recommendation for weekend and day hikers of Bengaluru, it is in Krishnagiri, a district bordering the two states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.
The views from an ancient temple had caught the attention of my friend and me, who are always in the look out for less crowded and less explored landscapes and places with cultural and historical importance. One such place was the āBalaKodandaraya Swamy templeā whose history dates to the Vijayanagara era. Based on our online research, we found out that getting to the temple involved a short hike.
We started early on a Saturday morning by car. We had our breakfast along the way, in one of the several restaurants on the Hosur highway. From there, we followed the route on Google maps to reach our destination. A steep deviation to the left of the highway led us through villages. There were asphalted roads and good views of the surrounding hillocks for as long as the road passed through villages. The last couple of kilometers were through unpaved muddy roads passing through a slight forest stretch. We finally arrived at a small open space where we parked our car, at the base of the temple hill.
The trail through the forest cover, starting from the base to the temple arch
There was a small structure of brick and mortar (gudi) at the base, from where a flight of stairs led to the hilltop. People lit lamps, agarbattis and camphor here before starting their ascent. It took us about half an hourās climb along properly laid stone steps leading to the top. These stone slabs bear the names of the devotees who have donated them and the count of their donations on each step. The ascent curved around at multiple places and offered amazing views of the valley below at every turn. The first half of the climb had a forest cover and large boulders on both sides, until we arrived at the welcome arch of the temple.
The path towards the left of the trail, towards the temple
The forest cover ended after a few steps further from there and opened to a panoramic view of the valley of the villages and farms below. As one stands on a large rocky outgrowth, you will find the trail split into two paths. One, straight down through some Gulmohur trees. Second, up towards the temple. We decided to first walk the trail going straight. A few yards from there, the trees made way to a beautiful pond of pink lilies, dug right beneath a large rocky monolith. We later realized that devotees take a dip in this pond before proceeding towards the temple.
The path towards the right of the trail, leading to the temple pond
The view of the valley from there and the magical vibe of sitting by this pond of lilies could not let us go easily from there. My friend settled on the banks, with a book to read. Although the water was heavily littered with plastics, it was still a super calm spot to soak in some good energy. After spending a while, we then headed towards the temple, located on the peak of the hill, a short walk away. There was a panoramic 360 degrees view of Hosur and Krishnagiri from the temple, the green cover around, Krishnagiri dam and the Then Pennai river. The temple priest arrived much later at around 10.00.a.m. for the daily prayers.
Balakodandaraya swamy temple and the cleft for drawing water
Surprisingly, a small cleft in the rocky hill serves as a perennial source of potable water for temple use. The people who had gathered there by then, helped the priest in drawing water from this cleft and clean the temple premises before offering the dayās prayers. We sat there for a while and decided to head back to the base before the sun took over the skies and heated the rocks around. Overall, it was an incredibly beautiful place for a short trip from the city.
Other nearby places:
If you are looking at making it a full day trip, then you can explore the nearby places that include:
A compilation of 18 short stories based on my experiences of traveling on the roads of India, Iām happy to share that my second e-book is now available for my readers.
My book- ‘Stories Through Souvenirs‘ is a compilation of my stories of meeting people, hearing their stories and the learnings from my experiences. These are the stories of how these stories influenced me to become who I am.
Do give it a read and I am sure you will like it š
The Lost Lander 