Tag Archives: Offbeat things to do in India

Bangalore day trips, Nature & Wildlife, Statewise Travel, Tamil Nadu

A Weekend Adventure: Hiking to Ankushagiri Fort

April 4, 2025 thelostlander 4 Comments

On yet another weekend, we were off on yet another hiking expedition. This time, we went to a lesser-known trail on Hosur-Krishnagiri road. The initial plan was to hike to ‘Aiyur Sami Lake’, a day hike organized by the Eco-tourism wing of the Tamil-Nadu tourism department. However, their site was not accepting registrations due to unknown reasons, and hence, we decided to randomly pick a hill around the region on Google Maps and hike it up. That’s when we came across the Ankushagiri fort.

Following the route indicated on Google Maps, we arrived at the base of the start point of the ascent to Ankushagiri. There is a Perumal temple and, hence, a proper space for vehicle parking. Since we arrived on a Saturday morning in the winter months, some pilgrims had already arrived to worship the chief deity here. However, we skipped the temple visit and began our hike toward the fort that was located (once upon a time) on the hilltop.

Ankushagiri Fort and Perumal Temple at Tamil Nadu — The ruins of the ancient temple at the base of Ankushagiri Hike

At the beginning of the hike route, there is an ancient structure, now in a dilapidated condition. Today, the Sanctorum lay empty with wild bushes and creepers taking over what once must have been a grand temple. The motifs on the walls of the two adjacent temple structures indicated both Perumal and Shiva.

We went ahead from there and stopped after a brief walk. We were confused about the correct trail which seemed to split at a point from where either of them needed some more wear. We casually picked a path and continued to walk on the trail where the thorny bushes then opened to a rocky terrain. The rock looked interesting with varying patterns all over.

At the top, there were massive cacti plants dotting the area around an abandoned ancient temple structure. Only the pillars remained with the tall Garuda stambha lying down on the side and a stoneware that appeared to be an urn or a waterpot. Some previous visitors to this place had written ‘Someshwara Swamy Temple’ on the stoneware pot for our reference. We rested beside the temple on the large open rock bed overlooking the landscape. The gentle wind caressed our faces while we watched the hills appear one by one at a distance amid the clearing fog.

After relaxing for a while and munching on some fruits and nuts that we had carried with us, we proceeded toward the next part of the hill. The trail was beautiful with a rocky gorge on one side and huge cacti lining the path on the other. There, we arrived at a single electric pole that stood in the middle of a heap of ruins of what appeared to be an old fort. Although a circular marking can still be seen to date, only a few large pillars, a few hero-stones like inscriptions, and a couple of kolam designs engraved on the floor were all that existed for us to decipher what might have been the real grandeur, expanse and the purpose of the structure there. Almost little to no history is available to us about who or how this place had served.

Anyway, it was a very interesting outing for us to explore a place so lost in an area where we were the only humans in kilometers around us. We spent ample time there before descending back to the base. We photographed several other patterns on the rocks before arriving at the same bushy junction where we had chosen to take the random path for our ascent.

Upon our return, we paid a quick visit to the Perumal temple before heading back to the city.

Andhra Pradesh, Indian Architecture, Nature & Wildlife, Tamil Nadu

A day exploring Lake Pulicat and its heritage

November 1, 2024 thelostlander Leave a comment

This story is from quite some time ago. My friend was tracking the arrival season of the flamingoes at Pulicat lake. He had an acquaintance of a Mr. Illaiyaraja, a fisherman who lived in Pulicat village. Through him, we got regular updates on the arrival of these seasonal beauties (flamingoes) who flocked to the brackish lake during their migration period. Meanwhile, our family was planning a drive to Sriharikota, to watch the launch of Chandrayaan 2. That’s another story altogether, you can read it here.

A week prior to our road trip, Mr. Illaiyaraja telephoned my friend and told him, “Anna, flamingoes vandichi.” loosely translating to “Brother, the flamingoes have arrived”, in Tamil. So, a drive to Lake Pulicat became a part of our road trip as well. Our family took our old reliable friend (Our Tata Indica) out on the road and prepped it for the long road trip. It was as if time was bringing all things together in our favor. The flamingoes had arrived, the rocket was set for its launch and the roads were calling us.

Pulicat village gets its name from Lake Pulicat, the second largest brackish water lagoon in India on whose banks is this tiny fishing hamlet. The lake itself is so vast that it is spans across Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. We approached Pulicat from the Tamil Nadu side. After exploring all the places enroute, we parked our car at the entrance of the village and walked by following google maps to the location where we were supposed to meet Mr. Illaiyaraja. With a can of diesel in his hand, he led us to his wooden boat anchored at the jetty. We boarded the boat with him and set off on an unforgettable experience of sailing on a sea-like vast lake, to see.

Aquatic birds and shore birds that had migrated down from far across the globe birds to the Pulicat lake birds’ sanctuary. Pelicans, painted storks, kingfishers, herons, spoonbills, egrets, ducks, terns, gulls and several other species hovered on and off around us. But the peace within us came when the sound of the motorized boat came to a mute and there was an endless visual of the lake merging with the sky in a shade of ‘pink’. The greater flamingoes nesting peacefully in an unexplainable size of the flock. We spent quality time just watching them for a good hour or so before the sun started to turn the sky in hues of red.

We returned to the bank and continued to drive in the direction of Sriharikota. While we were exiting from the village and were at a traffic signal waiting to enter the highway, my eyes fell on an interesting but ignored piece of construction by the roadside. I decided to go near and noticed that the entry gates were locked. The architecture style was different than anything I had seen before in the region and some strange alphabets were engraved on its entrance arches. Although interesting, it still seemed eerie and gave me some sense of it being an old, abandoned site of a graveyard. Since it was locked, I clicked a few pictures of the place from outside and returned to the car and continued our drive to Sriharikota.

Top: Lake Pulicat enroute to SHAR in winter; Lake in Summer

When I looked it up on the internet, I found some interesting information about that old site I had just visited. There are about five main settlements dating back to the Dutch era across India namely at Gujarat (Surat), Kerala (Cochin), Andhra Pradesh (Machilipatnam), Tamil Nadu (Pulicat) and West Bengal (Hooghly) where forts or cemeteries can be found. This day, I had visited a Dutch cemetery which used to be a part of Fort Geldria or Fort Geldaria at Pulicat. Pulicat was the seat of the Dutch Republic’s first settlement in India, and the capital of Dutch Coromandel. This fort was the only fortification in the Indian empire whereas all other positions of the Dutch Company were trading posts. today, this cemetery houses about 76 tombstones, mostly carved in the Netherlands.

It is interesting how I came across a random site that holds so much historical importance in India’s history of colonization and it is also unfortunate that how inaccessible or neglected are these sites that holds stories of an era bygone. Thus, the sun had set on Pulicat ending our quick visit to this lakeside settlement.

Festivals of India, Karnataka

The Povvadi Namme of Ibbanivalavadi

October 24, 2024 thelostlander 1 Comment

It was back during my school going days, that I had an opportunity to visit the Haleri (Paaleri) Bhadrakali temple in Madikeri taluk. I was especially intrigued by several antlers hung on the wooden beams through the length of the temple verandah. Upon enquiry, the temple priest fed my curiosity by letting me know that the antlers are used during the temple festival to perform ‘Kombaat.’ Kombaat is a word derived as a combination of two Kodava words, Kombu (antler) and Aat (dance). It is one of the ritualistic dances performed during temple festivals of Bhadrakali, a local deity of Kodagu. Ever since then, I was trying to get details or the schedule to witness one of these festivals where Kombaat is performed.

Finally, it was in the year 2024 when my friend informed me that the Povvadi festival at her native village was scheduled to be held in April. After a long wait, I had finally arrived at the ‘Kaitale’ (ground) attached to the ‘Bhadrakali temple’ of Valavadi village. ‘Ibbani’ and ‘Valavadi’ are two sister villages in Madikeri taluk. The annual temple festival is hosted by each of these two villages on alternating years at the Bhadrakali temple premises of the respective village. This year, it was the turn of Valavadi villagers to host this festival. There are eleven clans that are the original inhabitants of Ibbanivalavadi. Therefore, they take precedence in the conduction of the overall festival.

Brief history of Povvadi festival:

Bhadrakali, also known as Bhagavathi or Povvadi, is a local deity worshipped in every village of Kodagu with dedicated temples. The annual festival celebrated in her honor is the Povvadi festival. There are several native communities in Kodagu and each of these members have their own significant roles and responsibilities to be performed at these festivals.

‘Maadayi Kaavu’ is a Bhagavathi temple located in the Malabar region of Kerala. It is believed to be the Aadi Neley (primary destination) from where the deity took station at several places across Kodagu. Among these places, is a group of temples called as the ‘Elu Neley’ (seven station) Bagavathi located across the northern and western parts of Kodagu. This group comprises of one brother- Appangeriappa at Kaatakeri and six sisters, namely- Poramalenaad Povvadi at Galibeedu, Karavale Badaga Povvadi, Paaleri Povvadi, Ummeti Povvadi at Makkandur, Kedakal Povvadi, Ibbni and Valavadi Povvadi at Ibbanivalavadi

Peeli aat

Details of the Povvadi Namme at Valavadi

The beginning of the festivities is marked by a ritual called as ‘Kett boovo’. Thereafter, none in the village is allowed to consume non-vegetarian and alcohol over the next fifteen days. The festival is celebrated towards the last seven days with specific rituals on each day.

Kombaat

On the first day, the Ooru-thakka (Village-keepers), Deva-thakka (Keepers of the temple administration) and Bandara-thakka (Keepers of the temple’s valuables) all arrive in a grand procession, carrying the Bandara-Potti (Donation box) and the jewelry for the deity from its treasury to the temple. This marks the beginning of the festival. The people are accompanied by the music of the ‘Dudi’ and ‘Poda mani’ kott (traditional percussion instruments). There are noteworthy rituals like the Boad kali, boad aat etc. among others.

There are other rituals performed over the next three days. The fifth day is the most interesting as several traditions unique to the ‘Elu Neley’ Bagavathi temples can be witnessed. The day began with ‘Kadi-aat’ followed by a ritual called Aangola-Pongola. It is performed by married couples as an offering to the goddess after their prayers for having children are fulfilled. The vow is fulfilled by their kids by cross-dressing in a wedding ceremonial attire any time before they hit puberty. A son dresses up as a traditional bride (Pongola) and a daughter wears a groom’s costumes (Pongola) as the family together offers their prayers to the Goddess.

Kombaat

Then, all the men of the native clans get dressed in ‘Boltha Kupya’- The white robe worn only on auspicious occasions. They then hold a bundle of peacock feathers (peeli) in their hands and perform a rhythmic dance to drumbeats in a circular formation around a ‘Kutthi bolcha’ (traditional lamp). This dance is called ‘Peeli-aat’. Post the performance, the crowd dispersed from the kaitale and gathered around the temple.

Here, the men in white kupya again perform the Kombaat to the beats of the traditional drums and Valaga (traditional wind instruments played by the members of the Meda community). Along with the ‘Ajjappa,’ (a person possessed by the spirit of ‘Ajjappa’, another local deity), all the other men in white Kupya circumambulate the temple while dancing with the Kombu and Chowri (a cluster of yak hair).

After that, all the villagers gathered to offer bandara to Ajjappa and Bhadrakali. After everyone had finished offering their prayers, they then went back to the podium with a spirit that was competitive. Competitive, because the next ceremony was like a competition of sorts. All the native clans of the village competed against each other in a coconut shooting competition. Three coconuts tied to a distant high pole were to be shot at as targets. It was a fun event to end the day of festivities.

After the sun went down, the men came together in an area nearby to the temple to offer animal sacrifice to the deity. Women are not allowed to this space. The food is then distributed among all the village folk.

On the following day, there is a similar celebration with Kombaat and Valaga, but on a smaller grandeur. on the seventh day of the festival, a pooja is offered to the goddess by all the thakkas, before returning the bandara potti and the temple jewelry to the treasury. The last and the final day of the fortnight long festival was marked by a ‘Kalasa Pooja’ offered to the goddess before drawing curtains on such a beautiful festival until next year.

Disclaimer: The purpose of this article is for documentation of lesser known festivals of India. The above information is only based on what I could gather by discussing with people who had come together at the temple. My apologies for any wrong representation. Readers are welcome to contribute any information that is deemed important and useful to be shared here.

This post was featured on 24-Oct-24 edition of ‘Spectrum’ in Deccan Herald National daily.

Chattisgarh, Nature & Wildlife, Statewise Travel

Exploring the untouched gems of GPM district

October 18, 2024 thelostlander 1 Comment

Gaurela-Pendra-Marwahi (GPM) is one of the youngest districts of Chhattisgarh and I recently had an opportunity to explore this region along with a friend. It has a deep-rooted connection with mythological stories and hence, several local tourists come here for pilgrimage. Otherwise, GPM is least explored on a typical tourist circuit and remains to be a hidden gem in the jungle, quite literally. Hence, through my trip to GPM, I wanted to explore, learn and document the adventure and cultural aspects of GPM district. On this journey, we had the guidance of GPM-tourism in arranging our accommodation and getting local experiences in some of the most exquisite places.

Day 1: Exploring Gaurela region.

We started from Bilaspur that morning in a taxi to arrive at our first destination- Gaurela. My first encounter of a new religious practice was of the kavadis. Of course, Kavadi itself is not new to me. It is observed in different forms across different regions of South India. But Kavadi of Chhattisgarh was new to me. During the Shravan month, the pilgrims leave their respective houses on a barefooted march all dressed in saffron dhotis, carrying the Kavadi on their shoulders and chanting bhajans and praises for Lord Shiva. Along their way, they are joined by others whose houses fall enroute and the march progresses. The group is large towards the end of their feat when they all arrive at the Amreshwar temple.

Anyway, after passing this large group of pilgrims, we continued our drive through a very beautiful stretch of Sal forests and paddy fields. Our pre-ordered lunch was ready by the time we arrived at our first destination- Jhojha waterfalls. This region is presided over by the people of the Pando tribal community, whose culture we were unaware of until then. A tiny canteen run by a couple belonging to this community provided us with food cooked fresh and served in the most sustainable way possible. All the fresh and locally grown ingredients (organic veggies) cooked with firewood and served with handmade plates and bowls of Sal leaves. The simplest, yet a sumptuous meal was relished by us before heading out on our short hike into the woods.

As the rain gods had taken over the skies briefly, we wore our raincoats and tamed our legs towards the trail. There is a biking trail for the biker-heads and then there is the hiking trail for people like me. It is a trail of about 4 kms with moderate difficulty for beginners. As we approached the Jhojha waterfall, believe me as I say that I hadn’t heard or imagined the existence of such an offbeat and majestic waterfall in this part of Chhattisgarh before arriving here. It was beautiful. On a day otherwise, one can go closer to the waterfall or get into the water. But I refrained from it since the monsoon fury wasn’t a safe idea.

Jogi Gufa was a place close by where we had originally planned to visit the cave and a waterfall. Ghaghra dam is frequented by locals for watersports and Son-kund and Kariam Ashram are popular places of local pilgrimage. All located at a drivable distance from Basti / Jhojha. By the time we returned to the base after the hike, the other members of the Pando community had joined in. Hence, we decided to spend the remaining time at Jhojha itself. It was a good decision as the evening was filled with song and fun giving us a better acquaintance with the tribal culture of the Pando community.

Mahua liquor is an essential part of Chhattisgarhi culture in general. There are several folk songs and stories composed around Mahua’s significance in the tribal life. The folk who had joined us for the night sang these songs and narrated undocumented stories that had been passed on through generations. Later, we had the supper cooked by the same family and retired at the little mud-cottage / homestay run by them next to the canteen. One of the most serene and silent locations I had ever imagined retiring.

Day 2: Exploring Pendra region

We started our day by having breakfast at a local restaurant at Pendra road (Town area). for someone whose taste palette is used to idly, dosa, roti etc., for breakfast, the samosas and jalebis were quite unusual to be consumed as a meal. But that’s how the rest of our day turned out to be- Sweet and Surprising. The untouched landscapes and the unaccounted number of mythological references make a great combination for hodophiles to explore Pendra. As soon as we moved away from the town area, the weather and the landscape took a dramatic change. crowded streets turned green and dry sunny skies began to cry rain.

This region is predominantly resided by the Baiga tribes and hence, meeting folks from this community and documenting their stories were my focus on this visit. We drove past the mountainous road and flat paddy fields to arrive at our first stop. It was an under-construction nature camp run by the GPM-tourism and managed by a local family of the Baiga tribes. Traditional tribal cottages flanked a serene waterbody and together overlooked by a canopy of trees. Apart from a group of local boys who occasionally dropped by for a game of fishing, it was a paradise in seclusion. The only thought that I had while there was, if I ever felt the urge to run away from the city hustle to a non-Himalayan place filled with silence and solitude, where no known person would find me, it would be this. To simply put- I fell in love with this location. We visited the home of a local Baiga family, took leisurely stroll in their village and farms and shared warm conversations and laughter with their little kids, all even as the rain gods continued to show no mercy on us.

Traditional jewelry of Baiga tribes in Pendra, Chattisgarh.

A few kilometers away from there is a pilgrimage site, Mai ki Mandap’. It falls on the way for people visiting Amarkantak. Mythology has it that river Narmada was all dressed in her bridal attire, awaiting the arrival of Son Bhadra, the groom and his party but was cheated by her friend. Since then, Narmada has been hiding inside a cave here where an eternal flame has been burning for ages. The river Amravathi ganga cascades down the valley here forming a multi-tiered waterfall, which needs to be crossed by foot to get to the temple dedicated to Narmada. Since it was monsoon time, the currents were quite strong and the river crossing was an adventure.

This region is dotted with several pilgrimage sites that are inter-connected with each other through mythological stories. Although we drove past most of them, we decided to skip a ‘stop and visit’ to them. Some of them were Durga Dhara waterfalls, Amreshwar temple, and Jaaleshwar Mahadev temple. Achanakmar tiger reserve, Kabir Chabutara and Malaniya dam are few other local hang-out spots in Pendra region which we decided to skip due to lack of time.

The highlight of this entire trip to GPM was the drive to Rajmergarh hilltop and the best ending for this short stay that I could have asked for. The adventurous people hike up this hill over a couple of days’ time, but we were not in luxury of so many days. Lines of Sal trees and herds of cows grazing on the tabletop grasslands were a treat for the eyes. The drizzly rains and the gusty winds not only caressed my hair and cheeks but also my mind and soul, as I stood on the edge of the green grasslands. We were lucky to get a glimpse of the setting sun even on a cloudy evening. The locals informed us that this hilltop is a favorite haunt of adventure seekers who usually hike up to pitch their camps and wake up for the sunrise over these hills. Such a beautiful place feels wasted without good amenities for the tourists. Outdoor lovers can get their own tents and pitch their own tents here, basic meals and tea can be availed with prior information to the caretaker of this place. But I highly recommend a day visit to this place, especially during the monsoon if you are looking for something more offbeat, less crowded and yet beautiful. The night’s stay was arranged at Gagnai nature camp, a property run by the government.

Day 3: Exploring Marwahi region.

The luxury of an additional day’s time would have allowed us to explore the Marwahi region, thus circling around the entire GPM district. ‘Beni Bai’ is an important and rare Jain pilgrimage site which I personally wanted to visit but couldn’t. A full day’s trip could include AdiShakti Mandir, Tara Khara waterfall, Pareva path, Chunha Dai, Shiv ghat, Samundalai kund and Lakhan ghat to complete a circuit before you head back to Bilaspur.

However, in our case, we started before sunrise because we had an afternoon flight to take from Raipur to Bangalore. Thus ended an offbeat trip to the heart of India, Chhattisgarh!

8 Best Things to Do in India with Your Partner

June 28, 2024 thelostlander 1 Comment

India, with its rich history, diverse landscapes, and vibrant culture, offers a plethora of romantic experiences for couples. Whether you’re newlyweds on a honeymoon or partners looking to rekindle your romance, India provides the perfect backdrop for unforgettable moments. Picture yourselves cruising through Kerala’s serene backwaters on a houseboat, exploring the majestic palaces of Rajasthan, relaxing on the sun-kissed beaches of Goa, or trekking the scenic hills of Uttarakhand. Envision witnessing the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal, experiencing the serene charm of Kashmir’s valleys, wandering through the lush tea gardens of Darjeeling, and discovering the rich cultural heritage of South India. Each destination offers a unique blend of romance, adventure, and tranquility, making India an ideal choice for creating cherished memories with your loved one. Here are the eight best things to do in India with your partner.

1. Cruise the Backwaters of Kerala

Kerala, often referred to as “God’s Own Country,” is a paradise for couples. A 5-day Kerala tour package is perfect for exploring the serene backwaters, lush greenery, and tranquil beaches. Start your journey with a houseboat cruise on the backwaters of Alleppey or Kumarakom. The houseboats, equipped with modern amenities, offer a unique experience as you drift through the calm waters, surrounded by coconut groves and paddy fields. Enjoy the picturesque views, indulge in delicious Kerala cuisine, and relax in the peaceful ambiance with your partner.

The Shikara cruise in the narrow canals of Alleppey

2. Explore the Royal Heritage of Rajasthan

Rajasthan, known for its royal heritage and grand palaces, offers a romantic escape into the past. Visit the stunning city of Udaipur, often called the “Venice of the East.” Take a boat ride on Lake Pichola, visit the magnificent City Palace, and stroll through the colorful markets. Jaipur, the Pink City, is another must-visit with its impressive forts and palaces. Stay at one of the heritage hotels to experience royal hospitality. The desert city of Jaisalmer, with its golden sand dunes, offers an adventurous yet romantic camel safari under the starlit sky.

3. Relax on the Beaches of Goa

Goa, with its sun-kissed beaches, vibrant nightlife, and laid-back vibe, is an ideal destination for couples. Spend your days lounging on the sandy shores, swimming in the azure waters, and enjoying beachside meals. For a more secluded experience, head to the beaches of South Goa like Palolem and Agonda. Explore the charming streets of Old Goa, visit the famous churches, and indulge in water sports for an adrenaline rush. As the sun sets, the beach shacks come alive with music and dance, offering a perfect end to a romantic day.

4. Trek the Hills of Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand, with its scenic beauty and tranquil environment, is a haven for couples who love nature and adventure. A 10-day Uttarakhand tour package can take you through the stunning hill stations of Nainital, Mussoorie, and Ranikhet. Enjoy boating on Naini Lake, take a cable car ride to Gun Hill, and explore the lush forests and waterfalls. For a spiritual experience, visit the holy towns of Haridwar and Rishikesh, and attend the evening Ganga Aarti. If you’re into trekking, the Valley of Flowers and Chopta Tungnath treks offer breathtaking views and an unforgettable experience.

5. Witness the Romance of the Taj Mahal

No trip to India is complete without visiting the iconic Taj Mahal in Agra. This magnificent white marble mausoleum, built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, stands as a symbol of eternal love. Walk hand in hand with your partner through the beautifully manicured gardens, and admire the intricate architecture and craftsmanship. For a magical experience, visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise or sunset when the monument is bathed in a golden hue, creating a truly romantic atmosphere.

6. Experience the Serenity of Kashmir

Kashmir, often described as “Paradise on Earth,” is a dream destination for couples. Stay in a traditional houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar, and enjoy a shikara ride amidst the floating gardens and vibrant markets. Visit the Mughal Gardens, and take a stroll through the fragrant blooms. In winter, Gulmarg transforms into a winter wonderland, offering skiing and snowboarding opportunities. The pristine beauty of Pahalgam and Sonmarg, with their lush meadows, sparkling rivers, and snow-capped peaks, provide a perfect setting for romance.

Land rover Defender and 'Sleeping Buddha' at Sandakphu — Our Land rover Defender with the ‘Sleeping Buddha’ in the Background at Sandakphu

7. Enjoy the Tea Gardens of Darjeeling

Darjeeling, with its rolling tea gardens and stunning views of the Himalayas, offers a peaceful retreat for couples. Take a ride on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and enjoy the scenic journey. Visit the tea estates, where you can walk through the lush plantations and learn about the tea-making process. The Tiger Hill viewpoint offers breathtaking sunrise views over the Kanchenjunga range. Explore the vibrant local markets, and don’t miss out on tasting the delicious momos and local delicacies.

8. Discover the Vibrant Culture of South India

South India, with its rich cultural heritage, ancient temples, and beautiful landscapes, is perfect for a romantic getaway. Visit the temples of Tamil Nadu, such as the Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur and the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai, known for their architectural brilliance. Explore the backwaters and beaches of Kerala, and take a trip to the hill stations of Munnar and Wayanad. In Karnataka, the historical sites of Hampi and the royal city of Mysore offer a blend of history and romance. The serene beaches of Pondicherry and the French colonial charm make it a unique destination.

The Brihadeeshwaran temple at the backdrop

Plan Your Kerala and Uttarakhand Tours

When planning your romantic getaway in India, consider Kerala tour packages for 5 days and Uttarakhand tour packages for 10 days to make the most of these beautiful regions. In Kerala, opt for packages that include houseboat cruises, beach stays, and visits to hill stations like Munnar and Thekkady. For Uttarakhand, look for packages that cover the hill stations, spiritual towns, and trekking destinations to experience the diverse offerings of this picturesque state.

Conclusion

India, with its diverse landscapes and rich cultural heritage, offers endless possibilities for romantic escapades. Whether you’re cruising the backwaters of Kerala, witnessing the grandeur of the Taj Mahal, or trekking the hills of Uttarakhand, each experience promises to bring you closer to your partner. So, pack your bags and embark on a journey of love and adventure in this incredible country.

Jammu & Kashmir, Sponsored posts

6 Best Things to Do in Kashmir tour in 2024

June 21, 2024 thelostlander 1 Comment

The ‘Heaven on Earth” region of Kashmir with the onset of 2024 offers a bucket list of experiences that captivates the soul. This exquisite destination is immersed in hues of emerald-green valleys and azure-blue lakes that are intertwined to weave a timeless tale of its beauty.

The well-curated Kashmir tours invites you to unfurl these layers of beauty in this paradise. With so many options to explore, it becomes difficult to decide from where to begin your journey. Ideally, consider a peaceful shikara ride on the calm waters of the Dal Lake or visit the pilgrimage sites and religious places of worship.

Seek Blessings at Shankaracharya Temple in Srinagar

The magic unfolds if you take up any of the Srinagar tours and visit the Shankaracharya Temple. It is the oldest temple in the valley and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Many believe that the great saint Adi Shankaracharya meditated here and attained spiritual enlightenment.

Perched atop a hill it offers a mesmerising bird’s eye view of Srinagar and is also known as the Jyeshteshwara temple. The temple dates back to the 9^th century and features a fusion of Persian and Indian styles of architecture, with minute detailing and inscriptions embellishing the structure.

The temple holds a special historical and religious importance as it attracts devotees and visitors alike for its tranquil atmosphere, architectural grandeur, and the aura that transcends the surroundings. Pilgrims ascend a fleet of two hundred and fifty stairs, and along the way experience a spiritual vacation.

Golfing in Gulmarg Golf Club

Gulmarg is located around fifty-two km from Srinagar and houses the highest golf course in the world. This prime golf course was opened in 1911 by the British and designed by Colonel Neville Chamberlain. Located amidst the pristine beauty of the Himalayan mountain, it is encompassed by verdant meadows and snow-covered peaks.

This eighteen-hole course blends natural beauty and pits it against a challenging layout, making it a golfer’s delight. As you play at an elevation of 2,600 m, golfers can enjoy the fresh mountain air against a backdrop of tall pine trees. It has been a favourite hub for golf fanatics looking for a unique and stunning experience.

In summer it provides a lush green landscape, while the winters transform the course into a winter wonderland. Making it a year-round golfing destination that is beyond the ordinary. Whether seasoned or novice golfer, a game of golf in Gulmarg is a charming experience to be cherished for a lifetime.

Trekking in Kashmir

Kashmir, regarded as “Paradise on Earth” houses several treks through its alpine meadows and lakes making it a favourite destination for trekkers. The Great Lakes Trek is the most renowned in Kashmir. It leads the wanderers through alpine lakes enveloped by snow-covered peaks, while the Tarsar Marsar unfolds meadows adorned with untamed blooms.

Explore scenic trails from Gulmarg to the iconic Amarnath Yatra route, and immerse yourself in the pristine beauty that Kashmir’s trekking trails have to offer. The mountain breeze, the music orchestrated by the gushing streams, and the panoramic views stir the adventure soul of the trekkers leaving a heart full of happiness.

Pony Ride Excursions in Pahalgam

Pony ride excursions in Kashmir present a unique and delightful way to come up close and personal with the scenic beauty of the region. The gentle stride of the ponies adds an element of charm as the riders travel across meandering trails, verdant valleys, and remote villages.

The pony rides in Pahalgam take the visitors to places of interest like Betaab Valley and Aru Valley. It is an enchanting experience as the riders are greeted with lush meadows and gurgling rivers. Pony rides traverse through narrow lanes and guide you toward remote areas and hidden gems that are not easily accessible.

Pony rides are also available in Sonmarg where they tread through alpine forests and meadows heading towards captivating viewpoints like Thajiwas Glacier. You can also enjoy pony rides in Srinagar around the Dal Lake offering a glimpse into the city’s alluring surroundings.

Go wild with Wildlife Tours

The dense forests and snow capped mountains house some of the most amazing and rare species of flora and fauna. Protected amidst the boundaries of more than seven wildlife sanctuaries and national parks, wildlife enthusiasts can explore places such as Dachigam National Park, Hemis National Park, and Kishtwar National Park.

Snow leopards, musk deer, brown bears, black Himalayan bears, griffon vultures, and Monal pheasants are some of the rare animals found in the area. Visitors can also visit birds in one of the twenty-four wetlands as they are home to more than five hundred species of birds.

Shop for Kashmiri Exclusives

Kashmir is a paradise for shopaholics as you can buy souvenirs that blend tradition and craftsmanship. Nobody can deny the warmth of Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls which have won the hearts of many. The lively and bustling markets are known for hand woven carpets and beautifully crafted paper-mache items.

Other exclusive items included are walnut wood carvings, spices like Kashmiri red chilies and saffron to special green tea leaves. Floating markets on Dal Lake are known for unique shopping experiences as vendors sell fresh produce and handicrafts from their jam-packed boats.

Conclusion: Kashmir is a multilayered paradise, welcoming visitors with open arms. Immerse yourselves in its majestic landscapes luring adventure seekers to explore its valleys, lakes, and rich cultural heritage. Whether you indulge in shopping traditional handicrafts or go skiing on snow-carpeted slopes each moment becomes an important strand of your memorable experience.

Festivals of India, Tamil Nadu

A festival to celebrate rebirth- Valangaiman Padai Kavadi

May 10, 2024 thelostlander 2 Comments

It was an online link that led me to a few photographs of a rare celebration. The images were accompanied by very little write-up for me to get a clear idea about the occasion. All I could infer was that it was a festival called ‘Padai Kavadi,’ celebrated in a village called Valangaiman, near Kumbakonam in Tamil Nadu.

I reached out to a few friends from Tamil Nadu who, in turn, connected with their acquaintances from the region and gave me information that the festival is celebrated annually, on the second Sunday of the Palguni month as per the Tamil calendar. Since I had ample time, I could meticulously plan my itinerary for that weekend and wait for my arrival at Kumbakonam. I had earlier visited Kumbakonam, so I included a few places that I could not cover in my previous trip. But that is for another story. For now, the focus is on ‘the Valangaiman Padai Kavadi festival.’

What is the festival about?

For a South Indian in general, one might think the Kavadi festival happens in every other village during this season. So, what got me curious about this place? Well, this Kavadi festival at Valangaiman celebrates the rebirth of a person. As per the local belief, people suffering from smallpox (still considered a deadly illness in most parts of India) make a vow at the Sri Padaikatti Maha Mariamman temple to perform the Padai Kavadi if cured. Once completely cured, they believe they have seen death and returned. Therefore, the convalesced person is made to lay on a bier or a handbarrow, lifted and carried by pallbearers, and the entire ceremony or the ritual of a traditional funeral is conducted as if he/she were dead.

There are primarily two types of biers. One, a simple yellow cloth tied to a bundle of sugarcanes or a single sturdy bamboo that is used as a cradle for kids and carried by two men on either end; second, a handbarrow with two bamboo culms knitted together with coconut fronds on which an adult convalesced is carried by four men. The adult bier is made more elaborate and decorative depending upon the interest and financial status of the person offering his vow.

An adult-female laying on a bier at Valangaiman Paadai Kavadi festival

I was told that three sister goddesses are living (at dedicated temples) in parallel streets of the village. The kavadi (usually body piercings or holy water carried in decorated pots on heads) is offered as vows to all three sisters, but the Padai Kavadi (the resumption of the dead, celebrated by sleeping on a bier) is offered only to Sri Padaikatti Maha Mariamman, the second among the three sisters, during the auspicious day of Palguni month.

What happens on the festival day?

The procession of the convalesced people lying on biers starts early morning, mostly to avoid the noon sun. One can find hundreds of devotees who gather either at the small shrine of Vinayakan on the banks of the river Kudamurti or at a dozen makeshift temporary shrines set up by various local priests on the dried riverbed. Here, the bier, the person supposed to lay on it, and the respective kith and kin assemble for the rituals. Each person offering their vow is made to sleep on the bier after their family deity is invoked. Their eyes, nose, and mouth are closed with yellow cotton fabric, hands and legs are tied together as if those of dead people lying in coffins. Holy water is sprinkled around, and all the people gathering touch the feet of the sleeping person to take his/her blessings before the pallbearers carry them for the procession towards the Mariamman temple. For as long as a convalesced person is sleeping on the bier, he/she is treated equivalent to God as they are someone who has neared death, seen God, and returned. Then, a person carrying a clay pot with burning wood and incense leads the procession, and one with a pot full of water trails them, all being accompanied by drumbeats and flower throwers.

The procession circumambulates the Mariamman temple thrice, and then the bier is lowered down in front of the temple. Rituals are performed, post which the person descends from it and goes inside the temple to see the goddess and complete his vow. This is about the Padai Kavadi for people who survived death.

However, people who have suffered other ailments also make vows to offer a replica of the body part/ organ that has been cured through their prayers to Mariamman. One can see models in clay or silver, like eyes, legs, hands, etc., being sold around and offered by people at the temple, depending on their cured illnesses.

Apart from this, one can also see several people with various kinds of body piercings walking on the road (which is also a form of Kavadi) and circumambulating the three sister temples to offer their vows and prayers. A man suspended from a crane with his back hooked with metal loops and circumambulated around and in front of the temple, some men with full torsos pierced with lemons, long and heavy tridents passed through both cheeks, etc., were some of the unique and different Kavadi offerings I witnessed here. A detailed post of a dedicated festival of body piercings called ‘Mayana Kolai’ is available on my blog for further reading.

After all the kavadi offerings are over, the presiding deity, Goddess Padaikatti Maha Mariamman, is then brought out of the temple by around 03.00.p.m. on a procession. Around that time, cattle (goats and sheep) and poultry donated by the devotees are tied to another central post that is erected in front of the temple and suspended up and down with their bodies held firmly in the center. I could not gather sufficient information about the significance of this ritual, but I would be glad to learn from any of my readers here.

The festival then culminates after the deity returns inside the temple.

Valangaiman padai Kavadi festival

Jammu & Kashmir, Nature & Wildlife

Purple Farms of the Saffron Flowers- Kashmir Story

November 18, 2023 thelostlander 1 Comment

Long ago, I watched a visual documentary about the farmers of Kashmir who woke up early on freezing cold mornings to gather fresh flowers from their fields. They all rose with the sun to harvest saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. Ever since, these romanticized visuals had me imagining myself walking on those farms someday.

For close to a year, I had been trying to reach out to people to know when the exact time of the year was to witness these inflorescences. I got in touch with a local person from Srinagar who would take me around the farms. I learnt that the flowers would bloom around late October when autumn sets in. As the season approached, I was getting too anxious to not miss the season. Thus, booked a last-minute flight ticket from Bengaluru, for a long weekend at Srinagar. After a missed connecting flight and spending almost an entire day at the Delhi airport, I had finally arrived at Srinagar on a late Friday evening.

‘Be ready early in the morning, we will be heading towards Pampore’, my local guide said to me before dropping me off at a homestay in the city.

On the following morning, the Chinar leaves of autumn had started to paint my entire journey in gold. The sun rising over the overlooking mountains that surrounded us all around only enhanced my excitement to reach my destination. The saffron grown in the Jammu and Kashmir region has gained a GI tag in the year 2020 with Pulwama, Budgam and Kishtwar districts being key saffron producing areas.

‘Welcome to the Saffron town of India’, a board stood at the entrance of Pampore in Pulwama. The wide stretch of land on both sides of the highway looked bare and dry, without sight of a single flower or even plants of saffron that I had come to see from 2000 kilometers away. I looked at the person accompanying me, enough for him to understand the meaning of the perplexing look on my face. “Haven’t the farmers cultivated saffron this year?”, I asked him.

He walked me down to one of the farms on the roadside and explained to me that even yield ready plants aren’t prominently visible, with barely one or two grass-like looking leaves emerging from each root (bulb). Only the flowers come out from the root that are extremely sensitive to the environmental temperature. “This stretch of the farms has no shade and the heat due to the highway traffic delays the blossom. We will go to the interior villages of Pampore which have more shade because of orchards like apples, almonds, apricots, etc. The blossom season begins in the shaded-cooler areas and ends with the open-warmer areas”, he said giving me some relief.

We then met a farmer at Pulwama town who then drove us through the interior village of Pulwama, which is otherwise untouched by tourists. Finding our way through the misty morning while being greeted by endless orchards on either side, my guide on the steering stopped at a point. “Madam, here you go!”, he said.

Saffron flowers in Kashmir farms — The purple flowers of saffron in Kashmir

I ran out of the car and watched the sight in awe. It seemed like a faint purple carpet of flowers had been laid on a hazy morning, with the apple orchards writing testimony to my presence and the snowy mountains standing guard against this beautiful view. I had a tear rolling down my cheek, which I am still unsure if was because of sheer joy or in disbelief that I had made it there. I spent hours that morning walking between the purple blossoms, caressing the tender, dewy and moist flowers of saffron, taking pictures of the flowers while enjoying the crisp autumn air. The people accompanying me for sure must have thought that I was a psychopath wandering and meandering all alone, who had travelled from so far just to see these flowers. A few flowers made it to my books, pressed carefully between the pages and getting to go home with me.

He picked the tender flowers and rested a bunch on my hands while pulling out the saffron strands from one, for me to eat. My tongue had turned yellow upon consumption which he explained was an indication of the authenticity of the spice. I was then invited to his work area where his family had gathered around a table and were separating the different parts of the flowers that would be used for different purposes. He explained the entire process of separation of the saffron strands (the stigma or the female part of the flower), the drying and the packaging. Sipping on hot brew of Kahwa served with the same strands of the saffron that I was holding a few moments ago was overwhelming.

Of course, my visit would have been incomplete without picking up stashes of saffron from their shop as souvenirs for friends and family. In this short visit to the land of saffron, I had witnessed the world’s richest spice travel from farm to market. Sigh, it was a dream come true, to experience these fully blown saffron fields!

Fact file:

It is recommended to get in touch with proper sources and book taxis in advance who could take you on such guided tours of the saffron fields.
Pampore and Budgam can be reached on day trips from Srinagar. J&K tourism runs guests houses in Kishtwar as well, which can be reached via taxis hired from Jammu city.

Festivals of India, Tamil Nadu

India’s largest Cattle fair- Anthiyur Gurunathaswamy temple

September 2, 2023 thelostlander Leave a comment

When a friend mentioned taking a road trip to a fair at Anthiyur village, neither of us had many expectations. What can one expect at a village festival in India, after all? All that we had learnt before commencing our road trip was that it was a cattle fair, which was held as part of the annual festival of the Gurunathaswamy temple at Anthiyur village. Supplemented by a handful of YouTube videos in Tamil, we decided to take the long drive from Bangalore to spend a weekend.

We started from Bangalore before dawn to reach Anthiyur at the earliest and get sufficient time to see all the cattle stalls before returning. But only to our surprise, the scale of this temple village fair was anything beyond our imagination. Neither of us had seen or heard of a small village festival to be of such a large scale and spread.

The beautiful hills around Anthiyur village

Mythology of Anthiyur Gurunathar temple:

The story dates to around 600 years, when there lived a clan near Pichavaram forest, that worshipped three stones known as ‘Kutty Aandavar’ (translates to ‘Small God’, in Tamil). The local ruler wanted to marry the priest’s daughter. However, the priest’s family was against the marriage proposal. Meanwhile, one of the members of the priest’s clan gets possessed by their deity’s spirit, and the family is told to abandon the village along with the three prayer stones to avoid the outrage of the ruler’s anger. Following this, the family started to move north until they found a safe place to settle down. At some point, the family felt that their survival was going to be difficult and that the stones being carried by them were an additional burden. Hence, they continued their journey by throwing the stones into a nearby pond. They halted at Anthiyur for the night.

On the following morning, Santhakumaran (one of the family members) was surprised to find the same three stones back in his bag. They realized the powers of their deity and resumed worship of the stones by giving them three different names. The first stone was called Kamatchi, the second one was Perumal (Vishnu), and the last one was Gurunatha Swamy (a combination of Shiva and Kantha).

During the festival, three deities are taken on a procession from the main shrine at Anthiyur village to a temple in the nearby forest. As per mythology, a demon is believed to have occupied the forest in which Goddess Kamatchiamman wanted to reside. A fierce war was then fought between Veerabhadra (the warrior assistant of the Lord, protector of Kamatchi-amman) and the demon, in which the demon eventually surrendered. It is said that instead of leaving the forest, the demon requested lord Gurunathar to allow him to stay there on a condition that Kamatchiamman came there once a year to visit him. However, Veerabhadra agreed to this on the condition that he, too, was allowed to stay in the same forest. This temple is today called Vanakovil (translates to ‘Temple in the forest’ in Tamil), where Kamatchiamman is brought in a palanquin from the main temple.

The history of the Anthiyur temple festival

The current temple structure is believed to have been built by the Pandya kings. The Gurunathar temple houses an 11*11*11 feet kulukai. A kulukai is a large earthen storage container mainly used for storing food grains, with a large opening at the top (to fill the container) and a small vent at the bottom (to take the grains out for consumption). It is believed that the kulukai in this temple is used to store the jewels and other items related to worship, and is guarded by snakes. Only the head priest is allowed to enter the container and access the stored things, and is unharmed by the guarding snakes. Therefore, this kulukai is worshipped by the local people and it is believed to keep them safe from reptiles, scorpions, etc.

The month-long temple festival held during the Aadi month of the Tamil calendar hosts a range of unique rituals and celebrations during this time. Temple cars built for each deity are prepared and managed by the respective caste of people. Two large, towering, nicely decorated temple cars (the largest is of Gurunathaswamy and the smaller is of Perumal Swamy) are pulled by thousands of devotees who gather from across the nearby villages, from the main Gurunathaswamy temple to the Vanakovil and back. Today, animal sacrifice is practiced in Vanakovil.

The history of the Anthiyur cattle fair

A four-day-long cattle fair is, however, the highlight of the festival for which people come from across the districts of Tamil Nadu and the states of India. There are only two cattle fairs held at this scale in India. First, at Anthiyur (more popular for the horse fair) and second, at Pushkar in Rajasthan (Primarily a Camel fair). The history of the ‘Kudurai Santhai’ (the Horse fair) dates to the times when Tipu Sultan was the ruler of Mysore. He visited this cattle market to buy the best horses for his cavalry and sold his horses that were no longer fit for battles.

It has, over time, gained popularity among horse enthusiasts across the country who consider buying horses from this market as a matter of pride and prestige. The cost of each horse can range anywhere between 50 thousand to 50 lakhs rupees. Today, apart from buying and selling horses at the ‘Kudurai Santhai’, many horse owners come here to simply display their prized possessions. One gets to see stallions, mares, sires, and ponies of various native indigenous and pure breeds here. Some horses are made to perform to drumbeats and kept on exhibition. On the last day of the four-day-long ‘horse fair’, Geegees are judged based on their structure, build, and looks, and finally, awards are given away. On the day we visited in 2023, there were over 1000 horses at the fair brought in for various purposes.

All accessories, equipment, and other things that are associated with horse-keeping and equestrian training can be found and are sold here. Apart from horses, this fair is also the largest marketplace in India for other breeds of cattle and livestock like cows, goats, sheep, camels, rabbits, dogs, and birds. With encouragement given to native breeds, it is a great experience to see cattle across the 34+ acres of land.

Largest Makeshift Amusement Park:

To supplement the cattle markets, there is a makeshift amusement park set up, which is also by far the largest makeshift amusement park I have ever seen. Over ten giant wheels, rollercoasters, circus tents, and at least three globes of death are set up among several other types of amusement rides. The energy and ecstasy of this fair is all together only to be witnessed rather than to be read about.

The makeshift amusement park at Anthiyur festival

Souvenirs bought:

Bamboo staff- You will find people buying them, as it is considered auspicious to keep this weapon of Gurunathar Swamy at home.
Colorful horse whips
Horseshoes- this is believed to absorb negative energy if hung at the entrance of houses.

Disclaimer: This article is posted to document folklore and lesser-known festivals of India. If any mistakes are found, it could be based on what was heard as stories. Kindly comment below or message directly for any corrections required.

Festivals of India, Karnataka

The Boad Namme of Chembebellur

July 29, 2023 thelostlander 3 Comments

‘Boad’ in Kodava language means to beg/ request. ‘Namme’ translates to ‘festival.’ Thus, the ‘Boad Namme’ can be loosely called as the festival in which the people of Kodagu request ‘Goddess Bhagavati’ to grant their wishes.

The Boad namme is observed across Bhagavathi temples located in several villages in the southern part of Kodagu district, in series. The first Boad of the year starts at the temple of Kunda and the last one is observed at Parana village. Kudure (Horse) worship is an integral part of the Boad namme. In this, a young boy belonging to a designated clan from the respective village dresses up in the costumes of a horse and participates in the various ceremonies during the festival. Hence, it is said that ‘Kundath-ra Bott-le nenda Kudure, Parana mani-le ilinja Kudure.’ Translating to ‘the horse which rises at Kunda will only settle at Parana.’

I will talk about these two Boad festivals in separate posts. Among a series of all other Boad namme that are observed across villages in South Kodagu, I am starting from the middle, at Chembebellur village. The Boad Namme of Chembebellur is among the most popular of them all. It is observed over a period of four days and usually happens around the last week of April of each year.

Day one is Pattani. People belonging to all the native clans of Chembebellur observe ‘Fast’ on this day.

Day two is Kudure. Three young boys representing three clans of the three main Keris (areas) of Chembebellur i.e., Ajjinakanda clan of Podakeri, Coluvanda clan of Podakote and Chembanda clan of Nadikeri wear the costumes resembling horses (Kudure) and start from their respective Ain mane (clan’s ancestral home). They are accompanied by men impersonating other local deities of the village like Choundi, Aiyappa and the others during their march towards the Bhadrakali temple where they all assemble and hold the following rituals. Post this, there is a fire set up in front of the temple in which effigies are burnt.

Day 2: Kudure at Chembebellur Bhadrakali temple

The gathering then moves towards the village’s ‘Eshwara temple’ where the rest of the men and boys of all age groups dress up in various costumes. This dressing-up is a form of a vow they make to invoke Goddess Bhadrakali’s blessings. The costumes could range from traditional Bund-kali (Mud-smearing), Pill-Bhoota (Hay man), Puli-vesha (Tiger costume) etc. to more modern forms of cricketers, Llamas, swamijis, seducers etc. These dressed up men folk visit every house of Chembebellur asking/begging’ for alms all night and it is a fun time for all the households who host these men in the houses.

Day Three is Boad. This part of the festival is the most awaited and the highlight of the four-day celebration. All the dressed men congregate at the Bhadrakali temple in the afternoon. They are accompanied by the men impersonating the local deities as well. They all together circumambulate the temple thrice and go around begging form alms from the thousands of people who gather there to participate in the festivities. The end of the circumambulation marks the end of the Boad where all the men collectively offer all the money collected through begging to the Goddess and seek her blessings.

Day 3- Boad festival at Chembebellur Bhadrakali temple

Day four is Choole. Young boys who are yet to reach adolescence, cross-dress in attire of Kodava women and offer their prayers at the Bhadrakali temple. This day marks the end of a fun and yet traditionally rooted festival of Chembebellur, paving way for a Boad namme to start at yet another village of South Kodagu.

Disclaimer: The purpose of this article is for documentation of lesser known festivals of India. The above information is only based on what I could gather by discussing with people who had gathered at the temple. My apologies for any wrong representation. Readers are welcome to contribute any information that is deemed important and useful to be shared here.

The Lost Lander