Tag Archives: Trekking in India

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek – Cost, Best Time, Route & Highlights

The Kashmir Great Lakes (KGL) trek is widely regarded as one of India’s most spectacular high-altitude circuits. Rolling alpine meadows, jagged granite ridges, and a string of emerald and turquoise lakes make this route feel like walking through a painter’s brightest palette. Great Lakes of Kashmir is a classic 7–9 day trek that usually takes trekkers from Sonamarg to the Naranag valley (or the reverse), crossing several high passes and visiting lakes such as Vishansar, Krishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal.

This guide covers the route, daily plan, difficulty, best season, permits and safety, gear, food and packing, acclimatisation and practical tips so you can plan and enjoy the Kashmir Great Lakes trek with confidence.

  • Typical duration: 7–9 days (6–8 days of trekking).
  • Typical distance: ~65–75 km depending on start/end points and exact route.
  • Maximum altitude encountered: ~4,200–4,300 m (Gadsar / Nichnai passes). Most camps lie between 3,500–3,900 m.
  • Difficulty: Moderate to difficult (long days and 1–2 steep passes; not technical but physically demanding).
  • Best months: Late June to early September (peak July–August).

What sets KGL apart is the variety compressed into a single circuit. In a week you move from thick forest and pastoral Sonamarg meadows to barren moraines and dramatic glacial basins. Each lake has its own character — Vishansar’s wide shallow shores, Krishansar’s twin lake views, the dramatic bowl around Gadsar and the grand Gangabal beneath steep cliffs. The landscape changes day by day, making every campsite feel like a new world. Many trekkers call it a once-in-a-lifetime trek for the views alone.

This is a standard itinerary many operators and independent trekkers follow. Distances and times vary by pace and route choice.

Day 1: Srinagar to Sonamarg
Arrive in Srinagar and drive (~2–3 hours) to Sonamarg. Final gear checks, stay in a guesthouse or camp at Sonamarg (2,700–2,800 m).

Day 2: Sonamarg to Nichnai (~10–12 km, 6–8 hrs)
The trail climbs out of Sonamarg through meadows, forests and the Shekdur stretch before arriving at the high pasture of Nichnai (~3,500 m). There may be an army checkpost where ID is required.

Day 3: Nichnai to Vishansar Lake (~10–14 km, 5–7 hrs)
Cross the Nichnai pass (often ~4,100–4,150 m depending on route), then descend and reach Vishansar lake (~3,650 m). A spectacular first high-altitude lake.

Day 4: Vishansar to Gadsar (via Gadsar Pass) (~16 km, 6–8 hrs)
A long but rewarding day: ascent to Gadsar Pass (~4,200 m) and then a descent to the turquoise Gadsar Lake. Gadsar is in a sharp amphitheatre of cliffs and often has ice in early season.

Day 5: Gadsar to Satsar (~11–12 km, 4–6 hrs)
Cross rolling meadows and reach the Satsar lakes — a cluster of multiple small lakes — with scenic campsites.

Day 6 : Satsar to Gangabal (via Zaj or other pass) (~9–12 km, 5–7 hrs)
Cross the pass (sometimes called Zaj or another local saddle) into the Gangabal basin and camp by Gangabal Lake below Mount Harmukh. Gangabal is one of the most dramatic high-altitude lakes in Kashmir.

Day 7: Gangabal to Naranag / Thajiwas valley (~10–14 km)
Descend to Naranag, meet transport and drive back to Srinagar. Naranag has historical temple ruins and is a popular exit point.

Note: Many operators add a buffer day for weather, or extend to 8–9 days to allow lighter daily distances and better acclimatisation.

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek is not a technical climb since you won’t need ropes or glacier travel skills on the usual route but it is a sustained high-altitude Kashmir Trek with long ascents and descents. Expect:

  • Daily walking of 5–8 hours on varied terrain.
  • Two or three high passes around 4,000–4,250 m (steep sections, loose scree on approaches).
  • Nights at 3,500–3,900 m, so altitude symptoms are possible.

Fitness prep: a few weeks of aerobic conditioning (brisk walking, stair climbing, light trail runs) and weekend hikes will help. If you’re new to high altitude, allow an extra acclimatisation day (e.g., at Nichnai or a day in Sonamarg), many guided trek agencies like Cliffhangers India include one buffer day in their itinerary.

The trek is seasonal because snow blocks the high passes for much of the year. Late June to early September is the practical window: the snow melts, meadows bloom and passes are mostly passable. July–August are peak months. Trails are busiest then and weather is most stable; monsoon influence is limited compared with the lower Himalaya but occasional storms and afternoon rain/snow at high altitudes can occur. Early June may still have heavy snow; September can be cold with early snowfall. Plan accordingly.

  • Army or local checkposts are common near Sonamarg; keep valid photo ID (Aadhaar/passport/driving licence) handy for checks. Some itineraries require village levies or fees, your operator will handle.
  • Guided groups: using a local, licensed operator with experienced guides is strongly recommended if you’re new to Himalayan trekking. Operators provide tents, meals, porters/ponies and local knowledge of passes and weather patterns.
  • Altitude sickness: know the symptoms (headache, nausea, dizziness, reduced performance). Don’t push through progressive symptoms, descend immediately and seek medical help. Carry a basic first-aid kit and consider medications like acetazolamide only after consulting a doctor.
  • Operators provide 3 meals a day (simple, high-calorie trekking food). If self-supported, carry freeze-dried meals or easy staples (oats, pasta, nuts, energy bars).
  • Water: treat with chlorine tablets, purification drops or boil. Streams flowing from glaciers look clean but carry microscopic risks. Carry a 2–3 litre hydration setup; water points are frequent near lakes and streams.
  • Campsites are grassy meadows (pack down if wet); expect cold nights and  sleeping bags rated to at least -5°C to -10°C recommended for safety and comfort.
  • Sturdy trekking shoes/boots (broken in).
  • Waterproof shell jacket + insulated midlayer (down or synthetic).
  • Trekking pants, base layers (thermal if early/late season).
  • Hat, gloves (warm, windproof), sunhat.
  • Sleeping bag (rated to –5°C or lower).
  • SPF, sunglasses (high UV at altitude), lip balm.
  • Trekking poles (hugely helpful on steep descents).
  • Headlamp, spare batteries.
  • Water purification method and 1–2 litre bottles or bladder.
  • Light stove if self-cooking (or plan with operator food).
  • Basic medicines, blister kit, altitude info card.
  • ID and photocopies.

The region is home to mountain fauna (pheasants, marmots, ibex at very high altitudes, and sometimes brown bears in the lower forests).

Respect local wildlife, don’t feed animals, keep a safe distance, and store food properly.

The fragile alpine meadows recover slowly from damage, so follow Leave-No-Trace principles: carry out all plastics, avoid cutting vegetation, use designated campsites and follow toilet protocols (bury waste away from water sources or pack out).

Local communities and park authorities also emphasise low-impact travel.

  • Guided trek: expect a price range depending on services,  basic group treks are cheaper; private departures cost more. Pricing covers transport from Srinagar, tents, cooks, ponies/porters, permits and guide fees. Booking through reputable local agencies ensures safety infrastructure.
  • Independent: possible for experienced trekkers who can source local ponies and cooks, but permits, navigation and emergency response are more your responsibility. For first-timers, a guided trek is the safer, simpler option.
  • Gadsar Pass and Gadsar Lake — dramatic bowl views, turquoise water and cirques: one of the most photogenic spots on the trek.
  • Vishansar and Krishansar — approach views from the pass reveal twin lakes and meadows.
  • Gangabal below Harmukh — large alpine basin with sheer cliffs and reflective water — great for sunrise and sunset photos.

Bring a polarising filter if you shoot and protect gear from sudden drizzle or dust.

  • Pace yourself — better to arrive fresh at camp than collapsed; shorter, steadier steps up and down help.
  • Hydrate and snack — dehydration hides behind fatigue; sip water constantly and eat salty snacks to keep electrolytes.
  • Early starts — weather is most stable in the morning and you avoid afternoon wind or cloud.
  • Practice with poles — they save knees on long descents and steady you on screen.
  • Respect local advice — guides know micro-weather patterns and which days are risky for passes.
  • Check weather and pass conditions with your operator 48–24 hrs before start.
  • Confirm transport and meeting points in Srinagar/Sonamarg.
  • Carry sufficient cash (ATMs are not available en route).
  • Make a small emergency plan: share your itinerary with someone and ensure you know how to contact your operator or local authorities.
  • Pack exactly what you’ll need — light but complete.

The Kashmir Great Lakes trek is not the easiest Himalayan circuit, but with good preparation it is one of the most rewarding. Whether you go with a trusted local operator or plan a careful independent trip, respect the mountain, pace yourself, and soak in the views , the lakes will repay every step.

Beyond the physical challenge, KGL rewards with a sense of wonder: silent mornings by glassy lakes, wildflowers in meadows, the crunch of alpine gravel underfoot and nights under impossibly bright stars. It’s a trek that changes how many people think about scale and stillness, a lasting memory rather than just a checklist. Expect to return quieter, tired and richer in stories.

A Weekend Adventure: Hiking to Ankushagiri Fort

On yet another weekend, we were off on yet another hiking expedition. This time, we went to a lesser-known trail on Hosur-Krishnagiri road. The initial plan was to hike to ‘Aiyur Sami Lake’, a day hike organized by the Eco-tourism wing of the Tamil-Nadu tourism department. However, their site was not accepting registrations due to unknown reasons, and hence, we decided to randomly pick a hill around the region on Google Maps and hike it up. That’s when we came across the Ankushagiri fort.

Following the route indicated on Google Maps, we arrived at the base of the start point of the ascent to Ankushagiri. There is a Perumal temple and, hence, a proper space for vehicle parking. Since we arrived on a Saturday morning in the winter months, some pilgrims had already arrived to worship the chief deity here. However, we skipped the temple visit and began our hike toward the fort that was located (once upon a time) on the hilltop.

Ankushagiri Fort and Perumal Temple at Tamil Nadu
The ruins of the ancient temple at the base of Ankushagiri Hike

At the beginning of the hike route, there is an ancient structure, now in a dilapidated condition. Today, the Sanctorum lay empty with wild bushes and creepers taking over what once must have been a grand temple. The motifs on the walls of the two adjacent temple structures indicated both Perumal and Shiva.

Ankushagiri Fort and Perumal Temple at Tamil Nadu
The ruins of the ancient temple at the base of Ankushagiri Hike

We went ahead from there and stopped after a brief walk. We were confused about the correct trail which seemed to split at a point from where either of them needed some more wear. We casually picked a path and continued to walk on the trail where the thorny bushes then opened to a rocky terrain. The rock looked interesting with varying patterns all over.

At the top, there were massive cacti plants dotting the area around an abandoned ancient temple structure. Only the pillars remained with the tall Garuda stambha lying down on the side and a stoneware that appeared to be an urn or a waterpot. Some previous visitors to this place had written ‘Someshwara Swamy Temple’ on the stoneware pot for our reference. We rested beside the temple on the large open rock bed overlooking the landscape. The gentle wind caressed our faces while we watched the hills appear one by one at a distance amid the clearing fog.

Ankushagiri Fort and Perumal Temple at Tamil Nadu
The ruins of Someshwara Swamy temple at the peak of Ankushagiri fort

After relaxing for a while and munching on some fruits and nuts that we had carried with us, we proceeded toward the next part of the hill. The trail was beautiful with a rocky gorge on one side and huge cacti lining the path on the other. There, we arrived at a single electric pole that stood in the middle of a heap of ruins of what appeared to be an old fort. Although a circular marking can still be seen to date, only a few large pillars, a few hero-stones like inscriptions, and a couple of kolam designs engraved on the floor were all that existed for us to decipher what might have been the real grandeur, expanse and the purpose of the structure there. Almost little to no history is available to us about who or how this place had served.

Ankushagiri Fort and Perumal Temple at Tamil Nadu
Ankushagiri Hike

Anyway, it was a very interesting outing for us to explore a place so lost in an area where we were the only humans in kilometers around us. We spent ample time there before descending back to the base. We photographed several other patterns on the rocks before arriving at the same bushy junction where we had chosen to take the random path for our ascent.

Upon our return, we paid a quick visit to the Perumal temple before heading back to the city.

A daytrip from Bengaluru- Adi Chunchanagiri

Adi-Chunchanagiri mutt is the spiritual headquarters of the Natha Parampara and Jogi Cult of Hindus of Karnataka. My dad, who had earlier visited this place with his friends, happened to insist on going there again with his family. His intention was not to take us on the spiritual path but rather to introduce us to a hiking path which he found picturesque after having ascended.

One Saturday morning, our family set forth to enjoy this day trip towards Adi-Chunchanagiri. We drove towards Hassan, along an excellent highway until Bellur cross from where we had to take a deviation towards Adi-Chunchanagiri betta (hill) as indicated on google-maps. There on, we enjoyed our drive through the countryside, with traditional homes scattered between vegetable farms, coconut groves, and forest patches of brown boulders and green trees. Google is not always right and that’s why we deviated from the course a little more than necessary until we found the correct track again. But it was the deviation which we enjoyed. We realized that the region is declared as Adi-Chunchanagiri peacock sanctuary. It was no surprise that dozens of peacocks were grazing freely on every other farm, moving around at every turn of the road and everywhere else along our way right until we reached the parking lot at the base of the Adi-Chunchanagiri hill.

Adichunchanagiri
Top: The first glimpse of the Adichunchanagiri premises; Below: The entrance tower of the main temple

The initial approach towards the mutt premises starts with an ascent of about 100 steps leading to the welcome gate/ arch giving a visitor the first glimpse of the main temple. The large doors of the main temple opened into an ambience that felt divine and calm. It is entirely built with stones, and it gives a feeling of being in one of the ancient Dravidian temples though this one was built in modern times. The deities believed to be residing inside and revered highly by the pilgrims here are Sri Kalabhairaveshwara Swamy and Sri Stambhambika (Kambadamma).

After sitting there for some time, we began our ascent towards the peak of the hill. Just after coming out of the main temple, there is a large Ganesha idol sculpted out of the rocky wall of the surrounding. We continued our climb by passing by some smaller temples with a look around offering beautiful views of the green cover.

Adichunchanagiri
The temples and shrines at the Adichunchanagiri hill

Scores of people were seen climbing up and down for pilgrimage purposes. The climb to the hilltop is done to see the Panchalingas comprising Gangadhareshwara, Malleshwara, Katthale Someshwara, Gavisiddeshwara and Chandramouleshwara, whose temples or shrines are scattered along the trail leading to the summit. But we were there to hike that hill as a recreational activity for the weekend. We climbed up the steep stairs right up to the top with the trail splitting at random places. My family ended up getting lost from each other’s’ sight and then picked whatever trail lied ahead of us and met each other again at the top. Well, not the peak exactly, but just beneath it.

That’s where I gave up any further climb. The peak point of the hillock is known as Akasha Bhairava. It can be reached by climbing the last bit of the rocky hill which had no stairs but only with the aid of a big, suspended metal chain. It was a straight climb (almost 90 deg. gradient) which included a small jump from one rock to an another. I doubted my ability to descend safely even if I were able to reach the peak. My brother, on the other hand, climbed it up and down with so much ease (and grace) demonstrating that he still possessed his ancestors’ (apes) strongest traits.

Adichunchanagiri hill
The view from the top where I was standing beneath the last rock which leads to the peak

After he returned, we all came down towards the main temple where we were guided towards the dining hall. We devoured the delicious temple food before heading back towards Bangalore.

We started back just after lunch to avoid the weekend traffic at Bangalore. But, if you are interested to cover more places in this day, you can google for some of the Hoysala temples along your way and add it into your itinerary.

A day hike from Bengaluru- Kunagalu Betta

My friends and I picked yet another hill-top around Bengaluru for a day hike. ‘Kunagalu Betta’ on Kanakapura road, it was. We reached there early in the morning before the rest of the world discovered it (for that day). The car could go on to most stretch of the steep road until we parked it beside a small structure built for lord Hanuman by the roadside, under a large rock.

We started our hike uphill where the route was lined with several trees of custard apples for most stretch. After a kilometer of so, we came across a large rock that formed a cave-arch-like structure that kept the atmosphere inside very cool. After climbing out of the arch, it opened into the sky above a flat hill-top that offered a beautiful view of the other hills around. Do you remember my hike to Acchalu betta, where we went to find a statue of a Nandi on the hill-top? (you can read that story here). A similar Nandi was erected on this hilltop also, which was then overlooked by an ancient temple further atop a rocky outcrop from there.

The Cave like formation at Kunagalu Betta

To reach there, we crossed a small wooden brook formed out of a tree branch and then climbed to the peak where the temple stood. We sought the almighty’s blessings which mark the end of the ascent of the hike for most people. We had barely climbed a kilometer and half, and it didn’t feel like a hike yet considering we had done longer trails even on day trips. The breeze was cool, strong and yet soothing and hence, we decided to sit there and spend some time feeling the wind in our hair.

Kunagalu betta
The Nandi Statue atop Kunagalu betta

We then looked around and decided to find our own way to the adjacent hill from there. We climbed down the temple hill and climbed up the adjacent one. We again climbed it down and navigated our way through thick bushes and thorns to ascend yet another small peak. On that peak, we got a sense of getting lost if we tried to explore more hills because at that point, we were the only people and there was no trail that had worn out to lead us anywhere if we were lost. We descended that hill and were trying to find the direction that would lead us back to the temple.

Kunagalu Betta Peak
The view from Kunagalu Betta peak

Just then, our eyes caught a small slope in a random direction and all of us decided to explore one last random trail before heading back. We walked in that direction where the tall grass seemed to need some wear. We walked down further and suddenly out of nowhere; we were in for a surprise. There was a flight of stairs chiseled out of the rocks which was leading downwards. Finding stairs out of nowhere was a surprise, but what assured us was that the stairs would lead us somewhere interesting. Perhaps an abandoned piece of history? We thought as we headed in that direction.

Kunagalu Betta
In quest to explore the lost history at Kunagalu Betta

The grass laden stairs quickly cleared up to the view of a dozen motorbikes all parked side-by-side. That’s when we realized that we had already reached the parking lot. We had found a shortcut on our quest to explore random trails in random directions. Thus ended our quick hike to Kunagalu Betta. I picked up a bag from the car and tried to pluck as many custard apples as possible before heading back.

In conclusion, it was a short and easy hike. You can combine it with Acchalu betta or any other hike on Kanakapura road and make it a full-day activity.

Exploring the untouched gems of GPM district

Gaurela-Pendra-Marwahi (GPM) is one of the youngest districts of Chhattisgarh and I recently had an opportunity to explore this region along with a friend. It has a deep-rooted connection with mythological stories and hence, several local tourists come here for pilgrimage. Otherwise, GPM is least explored on a typical tourist circuit and remains to be a hidden gem in the jungle, quite literally. Hence, through my trip to GPM, I wanted to explore, learn and document the adventure and cultural aspects of GPM district. On this journey, we had the guidance of GPM-tourism in arranging our accommodation and getting local experiences in some of the most exquisite places.

We started from Bilaspur that morning in a taxi to arrive at our first destination- Gaurela. My first encounter of a new religious practice was of the kavadis. Of course, Kavadi itself is not new to me. It is observed in different forms across different regions of South India. But Kavadi of Chhattisgarh was new to me. During the Shravan month, the pilgrims leave their respective houses on a barefooted march all dressed in saffron dhotis, carrying the Kavadi on their shoulders and chanting bhajans and praises for Lord Shiva. Along their way, they are joined by others whose houses fall enroute and the march progresses. The group is large towards the end of their feat when they all arrive at the Amreshwar temple.

Anyway, after passing this large group of pilgrims, we continued our drive through a very beautiful stretch of Sal forests and paddy fields. Our pre-ordered lunch was ready by the time we arrived at our first destination- Jhojha waterfalls. This region is presided over by the people of the Pando tribal community, whose culture we were unaware of until then. A tiny canteen run by a couple belonging to this community provided us with food cooked fresh and served in the most sustainable way possible. All the fresh and locally grown ingredients (organic veggies) cooked with firewood and served with handmade plates and bowls of Sal leaves. The simplest, yet a sumptuous meal was relished by us before heading out on our short hike into the woods.

As the rain gods had taken over the skies briefly, we wore our raincoats and tamed our legs towards the trail. There is a biking trail for the biker-heads and then there is the hiking trail for people like me. It is a trail of about 4 kms with moderate difficulty for beginners. As we approached the Jhojha waterfall, believe me as I say that I hadn’t heard or imagined the existence of such an offbeat and majestic waterfall in this part of Chhattisgarh before arriving here. It was beautiful. On a day otherwise, one can go closer to the waterfall or get into the water. But I refrained from it since the monsoon fury wasn’t a safe idea.

Jogi Gufa was a place close by where we had originally planned to visit the cave and a waterfall. Ghaghra dam is frequented by locals for watersports and Son-kund and Kariam Ashram are popular places of local pilgrimage. All located at a drivable distance from Basti / Jhojha. By the time we returned to the base after the hike, the other members of the Pando community had joined in. Hence, we decided to spend the remaining time at Jhojha itself. It was a good decision as the evening was filled with song and fun giving us a better acquaintance with the tribal culture of the Pando community.

Mahua liquor is an essential part of Chhattisgarhi culture in general. There are several folk songs and stories composed around Mahua’s significance in the tribal life. The folk who had joined us for the night sang these songs and narrated undocumented stories that had been passed on through generations. Later, we had the supper cooked by the same family and retired at the little mud-cottage / homestay run by them next to the canteen. One of the most serene and silent locations I had ever imagined retiring.

We started our day by having breakfast at a local restaurant at Pendra road (Town area). for someone whose taste palette is used to idly, dosa, roti etc., for breakfast, the samosas and jalebis were quite unusual to be consumed as a meal. But that’s how the rest of our day turned out to be- Sweet and Surprising. The untouched landscapes and the unaccounted number of mythological references make a great combination for hodophiles to explore Pendra. As soon as we moved away from the town area, the weather and the landscape took a dramatic change. crowded streets turned green and dry sunny skies began to cry rain.

This region is predominantly resided by the Baiga tribes and hence, meeting folks from this community and documenting their stories were my focus on this visit. We drove past the mountainous road and flat paddy fields to arrive at our first stop. It was an under-construction nature camp run by the GPM-tourism and managed by a local family of the Baiga tribes. Traditional tribal cottages flanked a serene waterbody and together overlooked by a canopy of trees. Apart from a group of local boys who occasionally dropped by for a game of fishing, it was a paradise in seclusion. The only thought that I had while there was, if I ever felt the urge to run away from the city hustle to a non-Himalayan place filled with silence and solitude, where no known person would find me, it would be this. To simply put- I fell in love with this location. We visited the home of a local Baiga family, took leisurely stroll in their village and farms and shared warm conversations and laughter with their little kids, all even as the rain gods continued to show no mercy on us.

Traditional jewelry of Baiga tribes in Pendra, Chattisgarh.
Traditional jewelry of Baiga tribes in Pendra, Chattisgarh.

A few kilometers away from there is a pilgrimage site, Mai ki Mandap’. It falls on the way for people visiting Amarkantak. Mythology has it that river Narmada was all dressed in her bridal attire, awaiting the arrival of Son Bhadra, the groom and his party but was cheated by her friend. Since then, Narmada has been hiding inside a cave here where an eternal flame has been burning for ages. The river Amravathi ganga cascades down the valley here forming a multi-tiered waterfall, which needs to be crossed by foot to get to the temple dedicated to Narmada. Since it was monsoon time, the currents were quite strong and the river crossing was an adventure.

This region is dotted with several pilgrimage sites that are inter-connected with each other through mythological stories. Although we drove past most of them, we decided to skip a ‘stop and visit’ to them. Some of them were Durga Dhara waterfalls, Amreshwar temple, and Jaaleshwar Mahadev temple. Achanakmar tiger reserve, Kabir Chabutara and Malaniya dam are few other local hang-out spots in Pendra region which we decided to skip due to lack of time.

The highlight of this entire trip to GPM was the drive to Rajmergarh hilltop and the best ending for this short stay that I could have asked for. The adventurous people hike up this hill over a couple of days’ time, but we were not in luxury of so many days. Lines of Sal trees and herds of cows grazing on the tabletop grasslands were a treat for the eyes. The drizzly rains and the gusty winds not only caressed my hair and cheeks but also my mind and soul, as I stood on the edge of the green grasslands. We were lucky to get a glimpse of the setting sun even on a cloudy evening. The locals informed us that this hilltop is a favorite haunt of adventure seekers who usually hike up to pitch their camps and wake up for the sunrise over these hills. Such a beautiful place feels wasted without good amenities for the tourists. Outdoor lovers can get their own tents and pitch their own tents here, basic meals and tea can be availed with prior information to the caretaker of this place. But I highly recommend a day visit to this place, especially during the monsoon if you are looking for something more offbeat, less crowded and yet beautiful. The night’s stay was arranged at Gagnai nature camp, a property run by the government.

The luxury of an additional day’s time would have allowed us to explore the Marwahi region, thus circling around the entire GPM district. ‘Beni Bai’ is an important and rare Jain pilgrimage site which I personally wanted to visit but couldn’t. A full day’s trip could include AdiShakti Mandir, Tara Khara waterfall, Pareva path, Chunha Dai, Shiv ghat, Samundalai kund and Lakhan ghat to complete a circuit before you head back to Bilaspur.

However, in our case, we started before sunrise because we had an afternoon flight to take from Raipur to Bangalore. Thus ended an offbeat trip to the heart of India, Chhattisgarh!

Day hike from Bengaluru- Acchalu betta

My friend had learnt about a hill in Kanakapura Taluk through a YouTube documentary. ‘A large statue of Nandi, the sacred bull of Lord Shiva has been installed at the peak of the hill which can be reached by foot, through a hike,’ he told me. A hike plan was charted, and a few common friends joined us over a weekend to see this ‘statue of the Nandi’ located at the peak of ‘Acchalu Betta.’

We started from Bengaluru quite early that morning and had our breakfast at a popular location at Kanakapura. From there, we followed google maps to Acchalu village and arrived at a small village temple located on the foothills of a large monolithic hillock. Based on what we had read online, we knew this hill was what we were supposed to summit. We parked our car beside the temple, but we were not sure of the hiking trail that would lead us to the top.

The temple at the foothills of Acchalu Betta

Beyond the temple was a mud-road which we planned to walk further. We walked about a kilometer and realized that vehicles could have been driven until that point. There was yet another temple with an open field around which provided ample space for parking. Anyway, we did not mind the additional kilometer we had walked. From there began the actual hike to Acchalu betta.

The entire trail is nicely made with the kaccha roads cleared off all rocks, boulders, and grass, making it easy to walk and good to drive with a 4W-drive vehicle. However, the initial stretch had been washed down by the recent rain, so there was no way a vehicle could drive past that. After this stretch was over, it was an effortless walk to the peak, but through a thick canopy of bamboo forests. It is frequented by elephants which was evident with freshly dropped dungs enroute.

The initial trail of Acchalu betta hike

The canopy then opened to a rocky outcrop offering a panoramic view of Bengaluru cityscape at the horizon. There was an old guesthouse that is abandoned and used by nighthawkers as a place to have a bonfire party.
A short, paved pathway from there leads to a small pond filled with white lilies. We sat there for a while before proceeding towards the statue that we had motivated us to ascend this hill. The statue of a lone bull (the Holy Nandi) sat gracefully overlooking the cityscape beneath. We too sat there at his foot soaking in the calmness that was swept in by the strong wind that was blowing there. Nandi is the mythological vehicle of Lord Shiva. Hence, a small shrine dedicated to Shiva exists opposite to the statue. It is in fact, a small rocky outcrop under a large tree which is worshipped as the presiding deity. We bowed our heads down to seek his blessings before commencing our return hike.

The lilly pond at the peak of Acchalu betta with the Nandi statue in the backdrop

On our way back, we wanted to explore a shortcut to the base and hence, decided to follow an electric line that connected to pole at the place where we had parked our cars. This route was indeed beautiful and interesting as compared to our ascent. This descent was more open to the skies, with lot of green bamboo patches scattered amidst large brown boulders with a constant company of the blowing winds. It was no doubt shorter but was steeper and harder for amateur hikers.

A day hike to Acchalu betta, weekend plan near Bengaluru
The shrine dedicated to Shiva, facing the Nandi statue at Acchalu betta peak

The good decision to explore a new trail came with its own set-of challenges, especially in the last stretch. As the path was unused for ages, thick thorny bushes had taken over the trail. We did not carry any tools with us that would help us to clear our path as we walked ahead. Hence, we tried all methods to navigate our way through the last few meters of our hike. But in the pursuit, we slid a few slopes, our clothes and hair got entangled in the bushes and we came out with bruises all over our limbs, bums and back. We rolled down the hill and got out on an open farm on whose side stood our car.

The bruises did not bother us as we returned with the content that we had conquered another hill around Bengaluru.

Watch the Acchalu betta hiking trail here

6 Best Things to Do in Kashmir tour in 2024

The ‘Heaven on Earth” region of Kashmir with the onset of 2024 offers a bucket list of experiences that captivates the soul. This exquisite destination is immersed in hues of emerald-green valleys and azure-blue lakes that are intertwined to weave a timeless tale of its beauty.

The well-curated Kashmir tours invites you to unfurl these layers of beauty in this paradise. With so many options to explore, it becomes difficult to decide from where to begin your journey. Ideally, consider a peaceful shikara ride on the calm waters of the Dal Lake or visit the pilgrimage sites and religious places of worship.

Seek Blessings at Shankaracharya Temple in Srinagar

The magic unfolds if you take up any of the Srinagar tours and visit the Shankaracharya Temple. It is the oldest temple in the valley and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Many believe that the great saint Adi Shankaracharya meditated here and attained spiritual enlightenment.

Perched atop a hill it offers a mesmerising bird’s eye view of Srinagar and is also known as the Jyeshteshwara temple. The temple dates back to the 9th century and features a fusion of Persian and Indian styles of architecture, with minute detailing and inscriptions embellishing the structure.

The temple holds a special historical and religious importance as it attracts devotees and visitors alike for its tranquil atmosphere, architectural grandeur, and the aura that transcends the surroundings. Pilgrims ascend a fleet of two hundred and fifty stairs, and along the way experience a spiritual vacation.

Golfing in Gulmarg Golf Club

Gulmarg is located around fifty-two km from Srinagar and houses the highest golf course in the world. This prime golf course was opened in 1911 by the British and designed by Colonel Neville Chamberlain. Located amidst the pristine beauty of the Himalayan mountain, it is encompassed by verdant meadows and snow-covered peaks.

This eighteen-hole course blends natural beauty and pits it against a challenging layout, making it a golfer’s delight. As you play at an elevation of 2,600 m, golfers can enjoy the fresh mountain air against a backdrop of tall pine trees. It has been a favourite hub for golf fanatics looking for a unique and stunning experience.

In summer it provides a lush green landscape, while the winters transform the course into a winter wonderland. Making it a year-round golfing destination that is beyond the ordinary. Whether seasoned or novice golfer, a game of golf in Gulmarg is a charming experience to be cherished for a lifetime.

Trekking in Kashmir

Kashmir, regarded as “Paradise on Earth” houses several treks through its alpine meadows and lakes making it a favourite destination for trekkers. The Great Lakes Trek is the most renowned in Kashmir. It leads the wanderers through alpine lakes enveloped by snow-covered peaks, while the Tarsar Marsar unfolds meadows adorned with untamed blooms.

Explore scenic trails from  Gulmarg to the iconic Amarnath Yatra route, and immerse yourself in the pristine beauty that Kashmir’s trekking trails have to offer. The mountain breeze, the music orchestrated by the gushing streams, and the panoramic views stir the adventure soul of the trekkers leaving a heart full of happiness.

Pony Ride Excursions in Pahalgam

Pony ride excursions in Kashmir present a unique and delightful way to come up close and personal with the scenic beauty of the region. The gentle stride of the ponies adds an element of charm as the riders travel across meandering trails, verdant valleys, and remote villages.

The pony rides in Pahalgam take the visitors to places of interest like Betaab Valley and Aru Valley. It is an enchanting experience as the riders are greeted with lush meadows and gurgling rivers. Pony rides traverse through narrow lanes and guide you toward remote areas and hidden gems that are not easily accessible.

Pony rides are also available in Sonmarg where they tread through alpine forests and meadows heading towards captivating viewpoints like Thajiwas Glacier. You can also enjoy pony rides in Srinagar around the Dal Lake offering a glimpse into the city’s alluring surroundings.

Go wild with  Wildlife Tours

The dense forests and snow capped mountains house some of the most amazing and rare species of flora and fauna. Protected amidst the boundaries of more than seven wildlife sanctuaries and national parks, wildlife enthusiasts can explore places such as Dachigam National Park, Hemis National Park, and Kishtwar National Park.

Snow leopards, musk deer, brown bears, black Himalayan bears, griffon vultures, and Monal pheasants are some of the rare animals found in the area. Visitors can also visit birds in one of the twenty-four wetlands as they are home to more than five hundred species of birds.

Shop for Kashmiri Exclusives

Kashmir is a paradise for shopaholics as you can buy souvenirs that blend tradition and craftsmanship. Nobody can deny the warmth of Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls which have won the hearts of many. The lively and bustling markets are known for hand woven carpets and beautifully crafted paper-mache items.

Other exclusive items included are walnut wood carvings, spices like Kashmiri red chilies and saffron to special green tea leaves. Floating markets on Dal Lake are known for unique shopping experiences as vendors sell fresh produce and handicrafts from their jam-packed boats.

Saffron flowers in Kashmir
Saffron flowers in Kashmir

Weekend Drive- Biligundlu Ranganatha Swamy Temple

Another weekend and another offbeat destination. This time, we found a temple on a small hillock in Dharmapuri district of Tamil Nadu. In my earlier post about Hogeynakal waterfalls, I have elaborated on how river Kaveri marks the boundary between the two states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. This post is somewhat related to the same connection. Because the history of the temple that we were planning to visit this weekend is rooted on the other side of the river, on the fertile plains of Karnataka.

The original Ranganatha swamy temple dating to the Cholas or the Vijayanagara era (as described by the locals) was on the Karnataka side. The stone structure of the temple is present even today (we hope to visit the structure on another weekend trip). The idol of the deity was destroyed by the British (which needs fact checking) and then, a new idol was reinstated on the Tamil Nadu side of the land where it stands today. The Ranganatha Swamy temple that we were heading to is in Biligundlu village and hence the name. The idol of the deity is carved out of a rock which is part of the hill overlooking the river.

On a summer day, when the water levels in the river are low, one can walk across to the other bank. Whereas, when the river is flowing full, the roads leading to both the old and the new temples are long ones. The old location is reachable via MM. hills in Chamarajanagar district of Karnataka, and the new temple is reachable via Anchetty forests in Dharmapuri district in Tamil Nadu.

The trail to Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple
The trail to Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple

Anyway, coming back to this weekend, we started early on a weekend morning along the Anchetty forest leading to Hogeynakal waterfalls. We skipped the highway restaurants and stopped by a small local restaurant in Anchetty town for breakfast. It was a good decision as the experience was good with local food and the local atmosphere.

A few kilometers after the Biligundlu cemetery and few kilometers before Hogeynakal waterfalls, we stopped by at a location where river Kaveri flowed onto our right and a tiny structure of brick and mortar was built onto our left… We parked our vehicle there and started our short hike up from there. A properly laid stone path is there all the way to the hilltop which took us around half an hour to hike. The views of the river and hills around were just amazing all the way.

The Ganesha idol at the peak of Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple hill
The Ganesha idol at the peak of Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple hill

First, we were greeted by an idol of Ganesha sitting under the tree at the peak. This spot gave a splendid view of the river and the hills beyond. We sought Ganesha’s blessings and proceeded to the Ranganatha temple located below, connected by a short flight of stairs. The temple was closed by the time we arrived. However, we could see the idol through the meshed gate. After offering our prayers, we found a spot adjacent to the temple wall and sat there to soak in the beauty of the place. The view of river Kaveri flowing with a backdrop of green rolling hills looked amazing even as the winds caressed our faces. It was a beautiful place, indeed!

View from Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple
View from Biligundlu Ranganatha swamy temple; Photo Credits: Sugan @ TheBuffalorider

We headed back after a while and decided to take a dip in the shallow waters of the river to beat the summer sun. A word of caution if you plan to get into the river, that there will be a sudden drop in the depth at many spots and it is believed to have whirlpools as well. We stayed by the shores before calling it a day after a while.

Other nearby places to visit:

Weekend Hike- Bala Kodandaraya Swamy Temple

Although this destination is a recommendation for weekend and day hikers of Bengaluru, it is in Krishnagiri, a district bordering the two states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.

The views from an ancient temple had caught the attention of my friend and me, who are always in the look out for less crowded and less explored landscapes and places with cultural and historical importance. One such place was the ‘BalaKodandaraya Swamy temple’ whose history dates to the Vijayanagara era. Based on our online research, we found out that getting to the temple involved a short hike.

We started early on a Saturday morning by car. We had our breakfast along the way, in one of the several restaurants on the Hosur highway. From there, we followed the route on Google maps to reach our destination. A steep deviation to the left of the highway led us through villages. There were asphalted roads and good views of the surrounding hillocks for as long as the road passed through villages. The last couple of kilometers were through unpaved muddy roads passing through a slight forest stretch. We finally arrived at a small open space where we parked our car, at the base of the temple hill.

The forest trail
The trail through the forest cover, starting from the base to the temple arch

There was a small structure of brick and mortar (gudi) at the base, from where a flight of stairs led to the hilltop. People lit lamps, agarbattis and camphor here before starting their ascent. It took us about half an hour’s climb along properly laid stone steps leading to the top. These stone slabs bear the names of the devotees who have donated them and the count of their donations on each step. The ascent curved around at multiple places and offered amazing views of the valley below at every turn. The first half of the climb had a forest cover and large boulders on both sides, until we arrived at the welcome arch of the temple.

The path towards the left of the trail, towards the temple
The path towards the left of the trail, towards the temple

The forest cover ended after a few steps further from there and opened to a panoramic view of the valley of the villages and farms below. As one stands on a large rocky outgrowth, you will find the trail split into two paths. One, straight down through some Gulmohur trees. Second, up towards the temple. We decided to first walk the trail going straight. A few yards from there, the trees made way to a beautiful pond of pink lilies, dug right beneath a large rocky monolith. We later realized that devotees take a dip in this pond before proceeding towards the temple.

The path towards the right of the trail, leading to the temple pond
The path towards the right of the trail, leading to the temple pond

The view of the valley from there and the magical vibe of sitting by this pond of lilies could not let us go easily from there. My friend settled on the banks, with a book to read. Although the water was heavily littered with plastics, it was still a super calm spot to soak in some good energy. After spending a while, we then headed towards the temple, located on the peak of the hill, a short walk away. There was a panoramic 360 degrees view of Hosur and Krishnagiri from the temple, the green cover around, Krishnagiri dam and the Then Pennai river. The temple priest arrived much later at around 10.00.a.m. for the daily prayers.

Balakodandaraya swamy temple, Krishnagiri
Balakodandaraya swamy temple and the cleft for drawing water

Surprisingly, a small cleft in the rocky hill serves as a perennial source of potable water for temple use. The people who had gathered there by then, helped the priest in drawing water from this cleft and clean the temple premises before offering the day’s prayers. We sat there for a while and decided to head back to the base before the sun took over the skies and heated the rocks around. Overall, it was an incredibly beautiful place for a short trip from the city.

Other nearby places:

If you are looking at making it a full day trip, then you can explore the nearby places that include:

Five Amazing Places to Explore Caves in India

As a high school student, I was intrigued by the terminologies called ‘Stalactites’ and ‘Stalagmites’ in my Geography curriculum. ‘These were formations of calcium deposits formed by continuous flowing of water over several years, below the Earth’s crust’, it read.

“These structures are beautiful to see. I had the opportunity to visit one of these underground caverns during my visit to France. We walked down a flight of stairs and then were taken on a boat, to see stalactites and stalagmites, underground”, my geography teacher said. Her voice echoes in my ears even today, because back then my jaws had dropped in awe wondering how beautiful the landscape and topography of the countries outside India were. I wished to see the stalactites and stalagmites someday.

Cut to today, I am so glad that time has been kind on me with so many opportunities to explore my own country, India. These opportunities have opened my senses to realize that “India is a world”. From snow to deserts, mountains to beaches, plains to rainforests, the landscape comprises of EVERY type from across the world! Based on my travels, I have seen some amazing cave systems in India. Without including the caves that have been part of India’s ‘art and architectural heritage’, here are five best places in India where you can explore caves in their natural form.

1. Meghalaya:

Top on the list, there are hundreds of caves that are open to explorers, hundreds being discovered every day and maybe thousands that are still unknown to people yet. ‘Krem Liat Prah’, India’s longest cave system is in Meghalaya.

2. Andhra Pradesh:

Borra caves’ in Andhra is the largest cave in India. A heritage railway line passes just above this limestone cave. Having such a big cave system is proof and motivation enough to know that several other caves are available in this region waiting to be explored by adventurers and tourists alike.

Inside the Belum caves

3. Chhattisgarh:

The state sitting within the mythologically important forests called ‘Dandakaranya,’ these forests are home to several limestone cave systems that are yet untouched by mass-tourism. Only about 57 caves are known to people as of now, and there is immense scope for exploring new caves. The remoteness of the places adds to the joy of the explorer while caving in Chhattisgarh. The video of exploring a cave at Bastar, Chhattisgarh is shared below.

Cave exploration at Madarkonta caves

4. Andaman & Nicobar Islands:

This archipelago and Union territory of India is one of the best kept secrets of nature enthusiasts who want to go caving. In fact, this is where I saw a stalactite and stalagmite for the first time in my life. The connectivity of these remote caves located on different islands through a channel of interconnected mangrove forests passing through pristine blue sea water makes it a memorable experience.

5. Karnataka:

While all the above cave systems I have enlisted above are limestone caves, Karnataka is home to some of the beautiful sandstone caves which are scattered across the middle and northern region of the state. Unlike underground, the caves in Karnataka are formed above the earth’s surface and give a completely distinct perspective of exploring this state, which is my home-state as well!

Rocky hills at Badami