Tag Archives: India travel

Jammu & Kashmir, Sponsored posts, Statewise Travel

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek – Cost, Best Time, Route & Highlights

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The Kashmir Great Lakes (KGL) trek is widely regarded as one of India’s most spectacular high-altitude circuits. Rolling alpine meadows, jagged granite ridges, and a string of emerald and turquoise lakes make this route feel like walking through a painter’s brightest palette. Great Lakes of Kashmir is a classic 7–9 day trek that usually takes trekkers from Sonamarg to the Naranag valley (or the reverse), crossing several high passes and visiting lakes such as Vishansar, Krishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal.

This guide covers the route, daily plan, difficulty, best season, permits and safety, gear, food and packing, acclimatisation and practical tips so you can plan and enjoy the Kashmir Great Lakes trek with confidence.

Quick facts:

  • Typical duration: 7–9 days (6–8 days of trekking).
  • Typical distance: ~65–75 km depending on start/end points and exact route.
  • Maximum altitude encountered: ~4,200–4,300 m (Gadsar / Nichnai passes). Most camps lie between 3,500–3,900 m.
  • Difficulty: Moderate to difficult (long days and 1–2 steep passes; not technical but physically demanding).
  • Best months: Late June to early September (peak July–August).

Why the Great Lakes trek is special:

What sets KGL apart is the variety compressed into a single circuit. In a week you move from thick forest and pastoral Sonamarg meadows to barren moraines and dramatic glacial basins. Each lake has its own character — Vishansar’s wide shallow shores, Krishansar’s twin lake views, the dramatic bowl around Gadsar and the grand Gangabal beneath steep cliffs. The landscape changes day by day, making every campsite feel like a new world. Many trekkers call it a once-in-a-lifetime trek for the views alone.

7-day itinerary of Kashmir Great Lakes Trek:

This is a standard itinerary many operators and independent trekkers follow. Distances and times vary by pace and route choice.

Day 1: Srinagar to Sonamarg
Arrive in Srinagar and drive (~2–3 hours) to Sonamarg. Final gear checks, stay in a guesthouse or camp at Sonamarg (2,700–2,800 m).

Day 2: Sonamarg to Nichnai (~10–12 km, 6–8 hrs)
The trail climbs out of Sonamarg through meadows, forests and the Shekdur stretch before arriving at the high pasture of Nichnai (~3,500 m). There may be an army checkpost where ID is required.

Day 3: Nichnai to Vishansar Lake (~10–14 km, 5–7 hrs)
Cross the Nichnai pass (often ~4,100–4,150 m depending on route), then descend and reach Vishansar lake (~3,650 m). A spectacular first high-altitude lake.

Day 4: Vishansar to Gadsar (via Gadsar Pass) (~16 km, 6–8 hrs)
A long but rewarding day: ascent to Gadsar Pass (~4,200 m) and then a descent to the turquoise Gadsar Lake. Gadsar is in a sharp amphitheatre of cliffs and often has ice in early season.

Day 5: Gadsar to Satsar (~11–12 km, 4–6 hrs)
Cross rolling meadows and reach the Satsar lakes — a cluster of multiple small lakes — with scenic campsites.

Day 6 : Satsar to Gangabal (via Zaj or other pass) (~9–12 km, 5–7 hrs)
Cross the pass (sometimes called Zaj or another local saddle) into the Gangabal basin and camp by Gangabal Lake below Mount Harmukh. Gangabal is one of the most dramatic high-altitude lakes in Kashmir.

Day 7: Gangabal to Naranag / Thajiwas valley (~10–14 km)
Descend to Naranag, meet transport and drive back to Srinagar. Naranag has historical temple ruins and is a popular exit point.

Note: Many operators add a buffer day for weather, or extend to 8–9 days to allow lighter daily distances and better acclimatisation.

Difficulty, fitness and acclimatisation

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek is not a technical climb since you won’t need ropes or glacier travel skills on the usual route but it is a sustained high-altitude Kashmir Trek with long ascents and descents. Expect:

  • Daily walking of 5–8 hours on varied terrain.
  • Two or three high passes around 4,000–4,250 m (steep sections, loose scree on approaches).
  • Nights at 3,500–3,900 m, so altitude symptoms are possible.

Fitness prep: a few weeks of aerobic conditioning (brisk walking, stair climbing, light trail runs) and weekend hikes will help. If you’re new to high altitude, allow an extra acclimatisation day (e.g., at Nichnai or a day in Sonamarg), many guided trek agencies like Cliffhangers India include one buffer day in their itinerary.

Weather and best time

The trek is seasonal because snow blocks the high passes for much of the year. Late June to early September is the practical window: the snow melts, meadows bloom and passes are mostly passable. July–August are peak months. Trails are busiest then and weather is most stable; monsoon influence is limited compared with the lower Himalaya but occasional storms and afternoon rain/snow at high altitudes can occur. Early June may still have heavy snow; September can be cold with early snowfall. Plan accordingly.

Permits, safety and local rules

  • Army or local checkposts are common near Sonamarg; keep valid photo ID (Aadhaar/passport/driving licence) handy for checks. Some itineraries require village levies or fees, your operator will handle.
  • Guided groups: using a local, licensed operator with experienced guides is strongly recommended if you’re new to Himalayan trekking. Operators provide tents, meals, porters/ponies and local knowledge of passes and weather patterns.
  • Altitude sickness: know the symptoms (headache, nausea, dizziness, reduced performance). Don’t push through progressive symptoms, descend immediately and seek medical help. Carry a basic first-aid kit and consider medications like acetazolamide only after consulting a doctor.

Food, water and camps:

  • Operators provide 3 meals a day (simple, high-calorie trekking food). If self-supported, carry freeze-dried meals or easy staples (oats, pasta, nuts, energy bars).
  • Water: treat with chlorine tablets, purification drops or boil. Streams flowing from glaciers look clean but carry microscopic risks. Carry a 2–3 litre hydration setup; water points are frequent near lakes and streams.
  • Campsites are grassy meadows (pack down if wet); expect cold nights and  sleeping bags rated to at least -5°C to -10°C recommended for safety and comfort.

Gears and essentials to carry

  • Sturdy trekking shoes/boots (broken in).
  • Waterproof shell jacket + insulated midlayer (down or synthetic).
  • Trekking pants, base layers (thermal if early/late season).
  • Hat, gloves (warm, windproof), sunhat.
  • Sleeping bag (rated to –5°C or lower).
  • SPF, sunglasses (high UV at altitude), lip balm.
  • Trekking poles (hugely helpful on steep descents).
  • Headlamp, spare batteries.
  • Water purification method and 1–2 litre bottles or bladder.
  • Light stove if self-cooking (or plan with operator food).
  • Basic medicines, blister kit, altitude info card.
  • ID and photocopies.

Responsible Trekking during Kashmir Great Lakes Trek:

The region is home to mountain fauna (pheasants, marmots, ibex at very high altitudes, and sometimes brown bears in the lower forests).

Respect local wildlife, don’t feed animals, keep a safe distance, and store food properly.

The fragile alpine meadows recover slowly from damage, so follow Leave-No-Trace principles: carry out all plastics, avoid cutting vegetation, use designated campsites and follow toilet protocols (bury waste away from water sources or pack out).

Local communities and park authorities also emphasise low-impact travel.

A quick glance on difference between guided trekking vs independent trekking

  • Guided trek: expect a price range depending on services,  basic group treks are cheaper; private departures cost more. Pricing covers transport from Srinagar, tents, cooks, ponies/porters, permits and guide fees. Booking through reputable local agencies ensures safety infrastructure.
  • Independent: possible for experienced trekkers who can source local ponies and cooks, but permits, navigation and emergency response are more your responsibility. For first-timers, a guided trek is the safer, simpler option.

Photography and best viewpoints

  • Gadsar Pass and Gadsar Lake — dramatic bowl views, turquoise water and cirques: one of the most photogenic spots on the trek.
  • Vishansar and Krishansar — approach views from the pass reveal twin lakes and meadows.
  • Gangabal below Harmukh — large alpine basin with sheer cliffs and reflective water — great for sunrise and sunset photos.

Bring a polarising filter if you shoot and protect gear from sudden drizzle or dust.

Tips to improve your experience of Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

  • Pace yourself — better to arrive fresh at camp than collapsed; shorter, steadier steps up and down help.
  • Hydrate and snack — dehydration hides behind fatigue; sip water constantly and eat salty snacks to keep electrolytes.
  • Early starts — weather is most stable in the morning and you avoid afternoon wind or cloud.
  • Practice with poles — they save knees on long descents and steady you on screen.
  • Respect local advice — guides know micro-weather patterns and which days are risky for passes.

Final checklist:

  • Check weather and pass conditions with your operator 48–24 hrs before start.
  • Confirm transport and meeting points in Srinagar/Sonamarg.
  • Carry sufficient cash (ATMs are not available en route).
  • Make a small emergency plan: share your itinerary with someone and ensure you know how to contact your operator or local authorities.
  • Pack exactly what you’ll need — light but complete.

Conclusion:

The Kashmir Great Lakes trek is not the easiest Himalayan circuit, but with good preparation it is one of the most rewarding. Whether you go with a trusted local operator or plan a careful independent trip, respect the mountain, pace yourself, and soak in the views , the lakes will repay every step.

Beyond the physical challenge, KGL rewards with a sense of wonder: silent mornings by glassy lakes, wildflowers in meadows, the crunch of alpine gravel underfoot and nights under impossibly bright stars. It’s a trek that changes how many people think about scale and stillness, a lasting memory rather than just a checklist. Expect to return quieter, tired and richer in stories.

Sponsored posts

7 Reasons Why Thrillophilia Is India’s Most Trusted Tour Package Brand

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Andhra Pradesh, Indian Architecture, Nature & Wildlife, Tamil Nadu

A day exploring Lake Pulicat and its heritage

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This story is from quite some time ago. My friend was tracking the arrival season of the flamingoes at Pulicat lake. He had an acquaintance of a Mr. Illaiyaraja, a fisherman who lived in Pulicat village. Through him, we got regular updates on the arrival of these seasonal beauties (flamingoes) who flocked to the brackish lake during their migration period. Meanwhile, our family was planning a drive to Sriharikota, to watch the launch of Chandrayaan 2. That’s another story altogether, you can read it here.

A week prior to our road trip, Mr. Illaiyaraja telephoned my friend and told him, “Anna, flamingoes vandichi.” loosely translating to “Brother, the flamingoes have arrived”, in Tamil. So, a drive to Lake Pulicat became a part of our road trip as well. Our family took our old reliable friend (Our Tata Indica) out on the road and prepped it for the long road trip. It was as if time was bringing all things together in our favor. The flamingoes had arrived, the rocket was set for its launch and the roads were calling us.

Pulicat village gets its name from Lake Pulicat, the second largest brackish water lagoon in India on whose banks is this tiny fishing hamlet. The lake itself is so vast that it is spans across Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. We approached Pulicat from the Tamil Nadu side. After exploring all the places enroute, we parked our car at the entrance of the village and walked by following google maps to the location where we were supposed to meet Mr. Illaiyaraja. With a can of diesel in his hand, he led us to his wooden boat anchored at the jetty. We boarded the boat with him and set off on an unforgettable experience of sailing on a sea-like vast lake, to see.

The birds at Lake Pulicat

Aquatic birds and shore birds that had migrated down from far across the globe birds to the Pulicat lake birds’ sanctuary. Pelicans, painted storks, kingfishers, herons, spoonbills, egrets, ducks, terns, gulls and several other species hovered on and off around us. But the peace within us came when the sound of the motorized boat came to a mute and there was an endless visual of the lake merging with the sky in a shade of ‘pink’. The greater flamingoes nesting peacefully in an unexplainable size of the flock. We spent quality time just watching them for a good hour or so before the sun started to turn the sky in hues of red.

We returned to the bank and continued to drive in the direction of Sriharikota. While we were exiting from the village and were at a traffic signal waiting to enter the highway, my eyes fell on an interesting but ignored piece of construction by the roadside. I decided to go near and noticed that the entry gates were locked. The architecture style was different than anything I had seen before in the region and some strange alphabets were engraved on its entrance arches. Although interesting, it still seemed eerie and gave me some sense of it being an old, abandoned site of a graveyard. Since it was locked, I clicked a few pictures of the place from outside and returned to the car and continued our drive to Sriharikota.

Top: Lake Pulicat enroute to SHAR in winter; Lake in Summer

When I looked it up on the internet, I found some interesting information about that old site I had just visited. There are about five main settlements dating back to the Dutch era across India namely at Gujarat (Surat), Kerala (Cochin), Andhra Pradesh (Machilipatnam), Tamil Nadu (Pulicat) and West Bengal (Hooghly) where forts or cemeteries can be found. This day, I had visited a Dutch cemetery which used to be a part of Fort Geldria or Fort Geldaria at Pulicat. Pulicat was the seat of the Dutch Republic’s first settlement in India, and the capital of Dutch Coromandel. This fort was the only fortification in the Indian empire whereas all other positions of the Dutch Company were trading posts. today, this cemetery houses about 76 tombstones, mostly carved in the Netherlands.

Dutch cemetery
The Dutch cemetery at Pulicat

It is interesting how I came across a random site that holds so much historical importance in India’s history of colonization and it is also unfortunate that how inaccessible or neglected are these sites that holds stories of an era bygone. Thus, the sun had set on Pulicat ending our quick visit to this lakeside settlement.

Festivals of India, Karnataka

The Povvadi Namme of Ibbanivalavadi

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It was back during my school going days, that I had an opportunity to visit the Haleri (Paaleri) Bhadrakali temple in Madikeri taluk. I was especially intrigued by several antlers hung on the wooden beams through the length of the temple verandah. Upon enquiry, the temple priest fed my curiosity by letting me know that the antlers are used during the temple festival to perform ‘Kombaat.’ Kombaat is a word derived as a combination of two Kodava words, Kombu (antler) and Aat (dance). It is one of the ritualistic dances performed during temple festivals of Bhadrakali, a local deity of Kodagu. Ever since then, I was trying to get details or the schedule to witness one of these festivals where Kombaat is performed.

Finally, it was in the year 2024 when my friend informed me that the Povvadi festival at her native village was scheduled to be held in April. After a long wait, I had finally arrived at the ‘Kaitale’ (ground) attached to the ‘Bhadrakali temple’ of Valavadi village. ‘Ibbani’ and ‘Valavadi’ are two sister villages in Madikeri taluk. The annual temple festival is hosted by each of these two villages on alternating years at the Bhadrakali temple premises of the respective village. This year, it was the turn of Valavadi villagers to host this festival. There are eleven clans that are the original inhabitants of Ibbanivalavadi. Therefore, they take precedence in the conduction of the overall festival.

Brief history of Povvadi festival:

Bhadrakali, also known as Bhagavathi or Povvadi, is a local deity worshipped in every village of Kodagu with dedicated temples. The annual festival celebrated in her honor is the Povvadi festival. There are several native communities in Kodagu and each of these members have their own significant roles and responsibilities to be performed at these festivals.

‘Maadayi Kaavu’ is a Bhagavathi temple located in the Malabar region of Kerala. It is believed to be the Aadi Neley (primary destination) from where the deity took station at several places across Kodagu. Among these places, is a group of temples called as the ‘Elu Neley’ (seven station) Bagavathi located across the northern and western parts of Kodagu. This group comprises of one brother- Appangeriappa at Kaatakeri and six sisters, namely- Poramalenaad Povvadi at Galibeedu, Karavale Badaga Povvadi, Paaleri Povvadi, Ummeti Povvadi at Makkandur, Kedakal Povvadi, Ibbni and Valavadi Povvadi at Ibbanivalavadi

Peeli aat

Details of the Povvadi Namme at Valavadi

The beginning of the festivities is marked by a ritual called as ‘Kett boovo’. Thereafter, none in the village is allowed to consume non-vegetarian and alcohol over the next fifteen days. The festival is celebrated towards the last seven days with specific rituals on each day.

Kombaat

On the first day, the Ooru-thakka (Village-keepers), Deva-thakka (Keepers of the temple administration) and Bandara-thakka (Keepers of the temple’s valuables) all arrive in a grand procession, carrying the Bandara-Potti (Donation box) and the jewelry for the deity from its treasury to the temple. This marks the beginning of the festival. The people are accompanied by the music of the ‘Dudi’ and ‘Poda mani’ kott (traditional percussion instruments). There are noteworthy rituals like the Boad kali, boad aat etc. among others.

There are other rituals performed over the next three days. The fifth day is the most interesting as several traditions unique to the ‘Elu Neley’ Bagavathi temples can be witnessed. The day began with ‘Kadi-aat’ followed by a ritual called Aangola-Pongola. It is performed by married couples as an offering to the goddess after their prayers for having children are fulfilled. The vow is fulfilled by their kids by cross-dressing in a wedding ceremonial attire any time before they hit puberty. A son dresses up as a traditional bride (Pongola) and a daughter wears a groom’s costumes (Pongola) as the family together offers their prayers to the Goddess.

Kombaat

Then, all the men of the native clans get dressed in ‘Boltha Kupya’- The white robe worn only on auspicious occasions. They then hold a bundle of peacock feathers (peeli) in their hands and perform a rhythmic dance to drumbeats in a circular formation around a ‘Kutthi bolcha’ (traditional lamp). This dance is called ‘Peeli-aat’. Post the performance, the crowd dispersed from the kaitale and gathered around the temple.

Here, the men in white kupya again perform the Kombaat to the beats of the traditional drums and Valaga (traditional wind instruments played by the members of the Meda community). Along with the ‘Ajjappa,’ (a person possessed by the spirit of ‘Ajjappa’, another local deity), all the other men in white Kupya circumambulate the temple while dancing with the Kombu and Chowri (a cluster of yak hair).

After that, all the villagers gathered to offer bandara to Ajjappa and Bhadrakali. After everyone had finished offering their prayers, they then went back to the podium with a spirit that was competitive. Competitive, because the next ceremony was like a competition of sorts. All the native clans of the village competed against each other in a coconut shooting competition. Three coconuts tied to a distant high pole were to be shot at as targets. It was a fun event to end the day of festivities.

After the sun went down, the men came together in an area nearby to the temple to offer animal sacrifice to the deity. Women are not allowed to this space. The food is then distributed among all the village folk.

Povvadi Namme, Kodagu
Povvadi Namme, Kodagu

On the following day, there is a similar celebration with Kombaat and Valaga, but on a smaller grandeur. on the seventh day of the festival, a pooja is offered to the goddess by all the thakkas, before returning the bandara potti and the temple jewelry to the treasury. The last and the final day of the fortnight long festival was marked by a ‘Kalasa Pooja’ offered to the goddess before drawing curtains on such a beautiful festival until next year.

Disclaimer: The purpose of this article is for documentation of lesser known festivals of India. The above information is only based on what I could gather by discussing with people who had come together at the temple. My apologies for any wrong representation. Readers are welcome to contribute any information that is deemed important and useful to be shared here.

This post was featured  on 24-Oct-24 edition of ‘Spectrum’ in Deccan Herald National daily.

Chattisgarh, Nature & Wildlife, Statewise Travel

Exploring the untouched gems of GPM district

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Gaurela-Pendra-Marwahi (GPM) is one of the youngest districts of Chhattisgarh and I recently had an opportunity to explore this region along with a friend. It has a deep-rooted connection with mythological stories and hence, several local tourists come here for pilgrimage. Otherwise, GPM is least explored on a typical tourist circuit and remains to be a hidden gem in the jungle, quite literally. Hence, through my trip to GPM, I wanted to explore, learn and document the adventure and cultural aspects of GPM district. On this journey, we had the guidance of GPM-tourism in arranging our accommodation and getting local experiences in some of the most exquisite places.

Day 1: Exploring Gaurela region.

We started from Bilaspur that morning in a taxi to arrive at our first destination- Gaurela. My first encounter of a new religious practice was of the kavadis. Of course, Kavadi itself is not new to me. It is observed in different forms across different regions of South India. But Kavadi of Chhattisgarh was new to me. During the Shravan month, the pilgrims leave their respective houses on a barefooted march all dressed in saffron dhotis, carrying the Kavadi on their shoulders and chanting bhajans and praises for Lord Shiva. Along their way, they are joined by others whose houses fall enroute and the march progresses. The group is large towards the end of their feat when they all arrive at the Amreshwar temple.

Anyway, after passing this large group of pilgrims, we continued our drive through a very beautiful stretch of Sal forests and paddy fields. Our pre-ordered lunch was ready by the time we arrived at our first destination- Jhojha waterfalls. This region is presided over by the people of the Pando tribal community, whose culture we were unaware of until then. A tiny canteen run by a couple belonging to this community provided us with food cooked fresh and served in the most sustainable way possible. All the fresh and locally grown ingredients (organic veggies) cooked with firewood and served with handmade plates and bowls of Sal leaves. The simplest, yet a sumptuous meal was relished by us before heading out on our short hike into the woods.

As the rain gods had taken over the skies briefly, we wore our raincoats and tamed our legs towards the trail. There is a biking trail for the biker-heads and then there is the hiking trail for people like me. It is a trail of about 4 kms with moderate difficulty for beginners. As we approached the Jhojha waterfall, believe me as I say that I hadn’t heard or imagined the existence of such an offbeat and majestic waterfall in this part of Chhattisgarh before arriving here. It was beautiful. On a day otherwise, one can go closer to the waterfall or get into the water. But I refrained from it since the monsoon fury wasn’t a safe idea.

Jogi Gufa was a place close by where we had originally planned to visit the cave and a waterfall. Ghaghra dam is frequented by locals for watersports and Son-kund and Kariam Ashram are popular places of local pilgrimage. All located at a drivable distance from Basti / Jhojha. By the time we returned to the base after the hike, the other members of the Pando community had joined in. Hence, we decided to spend the remaining time at Jhojha itself. It was a good decision as the evening was filled with song and fun giving us a better acquaintance with the tribal culture of the Pando community.

Mahua liquor is an essential part of Chhattisgarhi culture in general. There are several folk songs and stories composed around Mahua’s significance in the tribal life. The folk who had joined us for the night sang these songs and narrated undocumented stories that had been passed on through generations. Later, we had the supper cooked by the same family and retired at the little mud-cottage / homestay run by them next to the canteen. One of the most serene and silent locations I had ever imagined retiring.

Day 2: Exploring Pendra region

We started our day by having breakfast at a local restaurant at Pendra road (Town area). for someone whose taste palette is used to idly, dosa, roti etc., for breakfast, the samosas and jalebis were quite unusual to be consumed as a meal. But that’s how the rest of our day turned out to be- Sweet and Surprising. The untouched landscapes and the unaccounted number of mythological references make a great combination for hodophiles to explore Pendra. As soon as we moved away from the town area, the weather and the landscape took a dramatic change. crowded streets turned green and dry sunny skies began to cry rain.

This region is predominantly resided by the Baiga tribes and hence, meeting folks from this community and documenting their stories were my focus on this visit. We drove past the mountainous road and flat paddy fields to arrive at our first stop. It was an under-construction nature camp run by the GPM-tourism and managed by a local family of the Baiga tribes. Traditional tribal cottages flanked a serene waterbody and together overlooked by a canopy of trees. Apart from a group of local boys who occasionally dropped by for a game of fishing, it was a paradise in seclusion. The only thought that I had while there was, if I ever felt the urge to run away from the city hustle to a non-Himalayan place filled with silence and solitude, where no known person would find me, it would be this. To simply put- I fell in love with this location. We visited the home of a local Baiga family, took leisurely stroll in their village and farms and shared warm conversations and laughter with their little kids, all even as the rain gods continued to show no mercy on us.

Traditional jewelry of Baiga tribes in Pendra, Chattisgarh.
Traditional jewelry of Baiga tribes in Pendra, Chattisgarh.

A few kilometers away from there is a pilgrimage site, Mai ki Mandap’. It falls on the way for people visiting Amarkantak. Mythology has it that river Narmada was all dressed in her bridal attire, awaiting the arrival of Son Bhadra, the groom and his party but was cheated by her friend. Since then, Narmada has been hiding inside a cave here where an eternal flame has been burning for ages. The river Amravathi ganga cascades down the valley here forming a multi-tiered waterfall, which needs to be crossed by foot to get to the temple dedicated to Narmada. Since it was monsoon time, the currents were quite strong and the river crossing was an adventure.

This region is dotted with several pilgrimage sites that are inter-connected with each other through mythological stories. Although we drove past most of them, we decided to skip a ‘stop and visit’ to them. Some of them were Durga Dhara waterfalls, Amreshwar temple, and Jaaleshwar Mahadev temple. Achanakmar tiger reserve, Kabir Chabutara and Malaniya dam are few other local hang-out spots in Pendra region which we decided to skip due to lack of time.

The highlight of this entire trip to GPM was the drive to Rajmergarh hilltop and the best ending for this short stay that I could have asked for. The adventurous people hike up this hill over a couple of days’ time, but we were not in luxury of so many days. Lines of Sal trees and herds of cows grazing on the tabletop grasslands were a treat for the eyes. The drizzly rains and the gusty winds not only caressed my hair and cheeks but also my mind and soul, as I stood on the edge of the green grasslands. We were lucky to get a glimpse of the setting sun even on a cloudy evening. The locals informed us that this hilltop is a favorite haunt of adventure seekers who usually hike up to pitch their camps and wake up for the sunrise over these hills. Such a beautiful place feels wasted without good amenities for the tourists. Outdoor lovers can get their own tents and pitch their own tents here, basic meals and tea can be availed with prior information to the caretaker of this place. But I highly recommend a day visit to this place, especially during the monsoon if you are looking for something more offbeat, less crowded and yet beautiful. The night’s stay was arranged at Gagnai nature camp, a property run by the government.

Day 3: Exploring Marwahi region.

The luxury of an additional day’s time would have allowed us to explore the Marwahi region, thus circling around the entire GPM district. ‘Beni Bai’ is an important and rare Jain pilgrimage site which I personally wanted to visit but couldn’t. A full day’s trip could include AdiShakti Mandir, Tara Khara waterfall, Pareva path, Chunha Dai, Shiv ghat, Samundalai kund and Lakhan ghat to complete a circuit before you head back to Bilaspur.

However, in our case, we started before sunrise because we had an afternoon flight to take from Raipur to Bangalore. Thus ended an offbeat trip to the heart of India, Chhattisgarh!

Karnataka

A summer weekend in the placid coast of Karnataka

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Heard of the potential of Aqua-tourism in Karnataka? We did just that. Read Further.

Water activities like kayaking, surfing, and diving are slowly catching up with enthusiasts, both for recreation and as a sport. Thanks to favorable winds, some of the most serene estuaries with mangrove ecosystems and untouched diving spots, Karnataka’s coastal region has been attracting enthusiasts and vacationers from all over. It was a family road trip driving down from the hills of Kodagu to the coast of Karnataka.

Just like the gad-bad ice-cream that originated in this region, our itinerary was packed with experiences. We wanted to see the bioluminescent waters. Bioluminescence is a naturally occurring phenomenon in which the microorganisms present in the water emit light when disturbed thus making the water glow. The darker the surroundings, the better the visibility of this phenomenon. Hence, we had signed up for a night kayaking session on a no-moon night in the backwaters of river Shambavi at Mulki. We chose to camp by the riverbank to have a closer connection to the waters.

Campsite at Shambavi river bank, Mulki
Our Campsite at Shambavi river bank, Mulki

After arriving at the campsite and while my parents enjoyed their time strolling around the place, my brother and I took our lessons on taming the waves with the surfboards. Although my brother was quick to get the knack of balancing himself on the surfboard, I fell into the water several times before finally getting it right. It was a fun session under the harsh sun until we returned to the campsite. We then tried some wakeboarding in the backwaters and then headed towards the beach again, to see the sunset.

Padubidri beach is among the only twelve beaches in India and two in Karnataka to have the blue flag certification. The drive to the beach itself was a beautiful experience with coconut trees towering over the narrow road running parallel to the sea. With all facilities including clean washrooms and good restaurants, the swim, and the sunset at Padubidri was one for the books. After grabbing some refreshments at the stalls there, we headed back to our campsite to relax a bit before the beautiful night that had to follow.

Since it was a no-moon night, the tides had caused the water levels to rise. It was pitch dark as we set our individual kayaks out into the water and began to paddle along the river. Geared with life jackets and our oars, we were ready to set the water ablaze, quite literally! We had no sense of where we were going but to follow a faint beam of torch light on the first kayak that guided us in the correct direction. The magic slowly started to unfold in the water after we had covered a certain distance. The glowing waters peaked while we all had gathered at the river mouth on our kayaks. Although, it is said that bioluminescent waters are a sign of unhealthy water, I convince myself of not being guilty of enjoying this experience. We all screamed with joy as we splashed the blue waters on each other with our hands and our paddles. With each dip of our hand in the river, our arms would glow in neon blue, which seemed nothing but a fairytale.

Kayaking in Shambavi backwaters
Kayaking in Shambavi backwaters

The following morning, we drove up to the temple town of Murudeshwara to score off yet another item on my bucket list. At about 20 kilometers off the coast of this temple town is Netrani island, a strategic patch of land controlled by the Indian Navy. Although entry to the island itself is restricted, the surrounding waters are open for public access during the spring months each year. This area is one of the best dive-sites in mainland India and that’s why I had been contemplating a visit here. We had pre-booked our slot for scuba diving with one of the several diving agencies around there.

Soon after filling out forms, a boat arrived at the beach to take us on a ride of approximately one hour to reach the dive spot. Our family was accompanied by a few other travelers, who like us were enthusiastic about their dive. Enroute, the instructions were given to everyone on the boat, both first timers and experienced. After reaching the site, without wasting time sitting inside the boat and waiting for our turn to scuba dive, we grabbed the snorkel gears and jumped into the water. The view inside had already set a good momentum for the expectations we had for the deep dive. Soon, each of us took turns to go underwater, touch the seabed and live our moments in a new world under the water. Especially for my sexagenarian parents, it was something that they hadn’t done before, and they felt a sense of accomplishment. It was evening by the time we returned to the shore with our boat tossing hard in the unusually rough sea.

Murudeshwar temple during Sunset
Murudeshwar temple during Sunset

We freshened up at a nearby lodge before visiting the Murudeshwara temple. We called it a day while watching the sun go down from atop the temple tower. It is highly recommended that this spring-summer trip to the coast of Karnataka should go onto everyone’s bucket list!

Chattisgarh, Nature & Wildlife, Sponsored posts

A Trip to Kanger Valley National Park

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My first thoughts about visiting a national park used to be safaris, birdwatching and game sighting. But my trip to Kanger valley national park in Chhattisgarh helped me change that perspective by letting me understand that a trip to a forest can be beyond wildlife. Even without having any major landmarks to visit, a trip can be complete by simply traveling slow, being present and immersive in the energies of the moment.

A walk tour around Jagadalpur set a good preamble by introducing me to the culture and history of the tribal communities and the royal family of Bastar. Jagadalpur is where most rituals of the Bastar Dussehra center around. Bastar Dussehra, the longest festival in the world is celebrated for seventy-five days thereby attracting tourists from across the globe to witness the congregation and unique rituals of Adivasis inhabiting the region.

The Royal Palace at Jagdalpur
The Royal Palace at Jagdalpur

We then drove towards Kanger valley National Park, the only national park in India where human settlements is allowed within the heart of the forest that is thriving around the Kanger River. A sumptuous lunch served on patravalis was followed by a walk to see the beautiful Thirathgarh waterfalls and the serene Sita Kund, important sites of pilgrimage in the local culture. After spending some time there, I went on a guided trek to Shivaganga, an untouched gem. ‘The seclusion of the waterfall, reachable by a flight of bamboo stairs laid out through the thickets would be best complimented by an overnight camping and the dance of the fireflies’ as described by the guide.

Sita Kund, Thirathgarh waterfalls, Kanger valley National Park
Sita Kund at Thirathgarh waterfalls

That night’s accommodation was at an Adivasi homestay. A traditional greeting was followed by warm conversation with the host family, accompanied by homebrewed Mahua liquor and red-ant chutney around a bon-fire, in the courtyard overlooked by a huge Mahua tree. The night’s sky there is certainly a delight for astrophotography enthusiasts. I woke up for sunrise and joined my host on his walk along the riverbank to collect ferns for a perfectly organic meal to start our day. With the mud and bamboo houses, wooden fences, dining on cow-dung smeared floors, slow-cooked food in claypot and on firewood with locally available ingredients, my stay was an incomprehensible experience of sustainable living.

Among three magnificent limestone caves located within the national park, we explored the stalactites and stalagmites of Dandak caves. A fifteen-minute session of meditation inside the dark and silent chamber of the cave was transcending. A Gypsy ride to Kanger Dhara waterfall was followed by bamboo rafting on the pristine and calm waters at Kailash Jheel. Since, our campsite was at a walkable distance from a tribal hamlet, I sneaked out and spent time at the local fair there. Tribal folk had congregated from all neighboring hamlets to watch the ‘Naat’, a theater form where excerpts from epics are adapted into local stories and performed all night.

The next morning started early with an inspiring birding session along the river trail as I was accompanied by a ‘Myna Mitra’, the friend of the Myna birds. This is an initiative by the forest department toward conservation of the Hill-myna, the state bird of Chhattisgarh by getting the local forest dwelling tribal youth involved to track the daily activities of these birds. We got lucky to spot a pair of these birds, the highlight for a typical wildlife trip.

Gumadpal temple, Bastar
Gumadpal temple, Bastar

After a quick meal, we headed towards Gumadpal to see a 14th century Shiva temple. Historians haven’t yet found the reason for its unique three-tiered Linga. That day happened to be the weekly market or haat, as locally called. A walk around the haat was another opportunity to get a closer understanding of the local way of life. Haats do not just provide for trade but also for worshipping local deities, entertainment, socialization and even matchmaking. A few women were singing and dancing to the local songs and asked us to join in as well. It was surprising to know that barter still exists here. I tasted local food like tubers, mahua, tendu, and a variety of local brews and wines. Jewelry and home-décor items in dhokra, a GI tagged craft made by a method believed to be practiced since over 4000 years were being sold among several other unique crafts of the region. I witnessed an energy packed session of cockfighting as well.

Dokra art at various stages of metal casting
Dokra art at various stages of metal casting

Having travelled to Chhattisgarh and not seeing the poster boy of its tourism advertisements, did not seem fair. River Indravati plummets down with all her might in a horseshoe shape, making Chitrakote waterfalls the widest in India. I checked into the government run luxury resort to spend my last evening, where every cottage offered a view of the setting sun over the waterfall. A ride in a country boat right into India’s Niagara waterfalls was just the prefect way to say good bye.

Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season
Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season

From waterfalls and caves to tribal hamlets and local markets, from history and folklore to art and craft, from food and wine to mud-houses and palaces, from dance and music to culture and architecture, my experience at Kanger valley national park was replete, wholesome and truly full of surprises!

Fact file:

  • Transport: Jagadalpur is connected by daily flights, rail route and by buses. Self-drive cars or taxis can be availed for travelling within Bastar.
  • Stay: Several tribal homestays are available within the national park. Nature camps and resorts run by Chhattisgarh tourism board and heritage stays in palaces are managed by the erstwhile royal family of Bastar. Good hotels of all budgets are available at Jagadalpur.
  • Food: Bastar cuisine mostly comprises of locally grown rice and vegetables.

This travel was part of the ‘Dekho Bastar- Season 1’ event organised by India Tourism Board and Bastar District administration in collaboration with Kanger Valley National Park. The article appeared in ‘Apr~May’23’ edition of ‘Bastar Bhoomi’ magazine.

Art & Craft

A compilation of art and science from the by-lanes of India

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I am an art enthusiast by passion and an engineer by qualification. I seek to be an art aficionado and a curious kid within me is always on the lookout to learn how things are made and work. In fact, I believe the best art is created by the culmination of science and creativity. As a traveler, I do not miss a chance to visit and interact with artisans and understand how they make things what they are good at.

When I travel to a new place, I try to accommodate time to explore the lesser touristy streets of any place because according to me, the real soul of any place lives in its by-lanes. I try to meet enthusiasts (across genres) and visit their creative abodes or workshops to see things take form.

Here is a compilation of such posts describing the souvenirs that combine two worlds of art and science which one can buy when visiting these destinations.

  1. Bangalore : HMT Watches
  2. Rajahmundry: Ratnam fountain pens
  3. Aranmula: Metallic mirrors
  4. Bastar: Metal crafts (wrought iron and bell-metal crafts)
  5. South India: Bronze icons

How many of these souvenirs have you collected, yet?

Sikkim, West Bengal

The four-wheeled connection between the south-western and north-eastern hills of India

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Britishers chose beautiful and yet strategic places across India to create their summer and recreational destinations, mostly hill-stations. Needless to mention that despite the colonial rule ending seventy-five years ago, their influence in our culture has been inseparable. One aspect of these cultural influences is the slow lifestyle of the people in these hill stations and bungalows nestled amid large plantations. When the British vacated the Indian hill stations, they also left behind all the automobiles, machinery and equipment used in their plantations and factories. With that, a legacy of four-wheel drive vehicles as well.

The Date:

When I planned a trip around North-east India in 2021, I had included an ascent to Sandakphu-Phalut, a small settlement in northern-most part of West-Bengal on the Indo-Nepal border. I wanted to see the ‘Sleeping Buddha’ at sunrise. The sleeping Buddha is a series of mountain peaks in the Himalayas including Kanchenjunga, Kumbakarna and others collectively appearing like the Lord Buddha resting in the horizon, over whom a golden shade is cast during sunrise. Trekking enthusiasts opt to walk through the Singalila National Park, a week-long trek to reach Sandakphu and Phalut.

But I (along with my brother and friends) planned to summit the trail by road. Not that I was less adventurous or lazy to walk, but I felt that my adrenaline rushed a little more at the thought of being driven on a four-wheel drive vehicle. ‘Why so?’, you may ask.

I am a kid who was born and raised in the south-western hills of Madikeri. ‘So, what?’, one might think. Madikeri, in Kodagu is where the Britishers have played an influential role in raising a culture of using and loving our four-wheeled drive vehicles. The jeeps from the Mahindra stables are like family for the people of the coffee hills. Be it the Willys, left-hand-drives, petrol engines and all that followed, you will find them all in shining spec and ruling the roads of Kodagu. This natural affinity for automobiles in my genes and the nature of my profession that lets me earn my daily bread (I’m an automobile engineer by profession), I don’t think my choice of transport needs further elaboration. So, for me the thought of a drive in the north-eastern hills exuded more thrill than trekking through the woods.

The vehicle here in discussion is a vintage ‘Land rover Defender’ that is at the least, as old as the Indian Independence! Maneybanjang is a small town that serves as a base for the Sandakphu trek. But it has gained the moniker ‘the Land of Land rovers’ for it is home to over 40 vintage Land-rover Defenders. These vehicles were used by the British to tame the unpaved terrain of the tea plantations at nearby Darjeeling and surrounding hills and were left behind when they left India for good. These vehicles are now the proud possessions of individuals living in this village who have now formed a ‘Land-rover owners’ association’ from whom rides can be hired by travelers who want to see the sleeping Buddha.

A vintage Land rover Defender petrol vehicle at Maneybanjang
A vintage Land rover Defender petrol vehicle at Maneybanjang

For someone from Madikeri who found an instant connection with Maneybanjang, it was like a love-story between coffee and tea. It was a meeting of the grasslands of Western Ghats with the snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas. As it was the last day of Deepawali on the day of our arrival at Maneybanjang, we also witnessed the local culture of how Deepawali was celebrated in that part of the world. With a mixed influence of Hinduism and Buddhism, the Indian and Nepali, the Gorkha and the Bengali cultures, it was indeed a unique experience. The localites form groups and go from house to house all night singing, dancing, and spreading joy, much like carol singing. That night, we too joined them during our stay and immersed ourselves in the local culture.

The Journey:

On the following morning, we started our journey from Maneybanjang around 08.00.a.m. in the morning and stopped at several villages, check posts, viewpoints until we reached the homestay at Sandakphu by evening. We tried local cuisine, yak cheese, fresh brews, and aged fruit wines along our way. We hiked around to get to the nearest sunset-point, even though the fog had engulfed the entire atmosphere. We cooked noodles with the locals in their kitchens and grooved to their native music before calling it a day.

The vintage Land rover Defender diesel vehicle, in which we traveled to Sandakphu and Phalut
The vintage Land rover Defender diesel vehicle, in which we traveled to Sandakphu and Phalut

On the following morning, we woke up as early as 04.00a.m. to climb up a small, elevated point from where we would get a wholesome 360degree view of the rising sun and the sleeping Buddha. We were chattering and shivering in the freezing cold as thin sheets of ice were crackling under our feet. But when the sun started to come out, the few minutes of spectacle was simple breathtaking.

Post breakfast, we drove up to Phalut, walked around the place and planned our descent. Not without taking a lot of photos with the machine we have travelled on thus far. It was early evening when we finally made it back to Maneybanjang, thus ending our date with the ‘Defenders’. It was a bittersweet moment as we had to leave each other’s company. Sweet for the drive, the vistas, and the thrill; Bitter for having to depart without knowing when we would be back again.

Land rover Defender and 'Sleeping Buddha' at Sandakphu
Our Land rover Defender with the ‘Sleeping Buddha’ in the Background at Sandakphu

We hired a local taxi to proceed towards our next destination- Gangtok, for the night.

Nature & Wildlife, Statewise Travel

List of the Widest Waterfalls of India

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We all know that the widest waterfall in the world is the Niagara, and it is in America! So, we take it for convenience to use Niagara as a synonym to refer to every other wide waterfall in our region. But how many of us have really seen the widest waterfall in India? Or for that matter, how many of us have seen the widest waterfall of our own states within India? Irony is we surely know Niagara, but we might have not even heard of the one in our own backyard.

So, here’s my attempt at listing some of the widest waterfalls in the Indian states that we love to call the Niagara of our country! (Note: These are by width of the waterfalls and not by their height)

1. Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh:

The WIDEST waterfall in India is this, where river Indravati plummets down a horse-shoe shaped gorge. A beauty to behold in all true senses, a ride in a country boat to right under the waterfall is a spell-binding experience.

Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season
Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season

2. Athirappilly waterfalls, Kerala:

Chalakudy river cascades down a rocky gorge forming this spectacular waterfall is something that one would not want to miss on their next haunt to Kerala to explore its backwaters and canals.

Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala
Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala

3. Gokak waterfalls, Karnataka:

Formed by the Ghataprabha river, Gokak falls is Karnataka’s best kept secret. A walk on the hanging-bridge laid right across the waterfall when it is flowing full, is an experience worth considering.

Gokak waterfalls
Above: The front view of Gokak falls from the Volkart rock view point; Below: A view from the Hanging bridge.

4. Hogeynakal waterfalls, Tamil Nadu:

As river Kaveri enters Tamil-Nadu, she plummets down forming this beautiful waterfall where a coracle ride is highly recommended.

Hogeynakal waterfalls
The breathtaking view of the Hogeynakal waterfalls from the watch tower

5. Bogatha waterfalls, Telangana:

An unexplored beauty, the Cheekupally stream cascades down forming this waterfall that has still been off the radar of mass-tourism.

6. Panimur waterfalls, Assam:

Assam is mainly a low-land / plain area with Dima Hasao district being its only hill-station. The high altitude of the region holds some of the best waterfalls of the state as well, among which Panimur waterfalls formed by the Kopili river is its best-kept secret.

Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam
Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam

7. Bahuti waterfalls, Madhya Pradesh:

Some may revere it to be the highest in Madhya Pradesh state, but I couldn’t find an equivalent in width to match this place of natural beauty which is formed by Sellar river in Rewa district.

8. Seven sister waterfalls, Meghalaya:

Thanks to its year-round rainfall, Meghalaya is a land of waterfalls, each being spectacular on its own. Talking about wide waterfalls, this set of seven-segmented waterfalls drops down a limestone cliff at Cherrapunjee which looks spectacularly wide when it is full during the monsoon-season.

9. Gira waterfalls, Gujarat:

Formed by the river Ambika, a jeep ride through a nice green landscape to reach this waterfall is what the locals recommend to enjoy this visit better.

This is my humble attempt to enlist some of the widest waterfalls, picking one from each state in India. Let me know what is the widest waterfall at where you are?

Boat ride at Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh