Tag Archives: Karnataka tourism

Weekend Hike- Bala Kodandaraya Swamy Temple

Although this destination is a recommendation for weekend and day hikers of Bengaluru, it is in Krishnagiri, a district bordering the two states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.

The views from an ancient temple had caught the attention of my friend and me, who are always in the look out for less crowded and less explored landscapes and places with cultural and historical importance. One such place was the ‘BalaKodandaraya Swamy temple’ whose history dates to the Vijayanagara era. Based on our online research, we found out that getting to the temple involved a short hike.

We started early on a Saturday morning by car. We had our breakfast along the way, in one of the several restaurants on the Hosur highway. From there, we followed the route on Google maps to reach our destination. A steep deviation to the left of the highway led us through villages. There were asphalted roads and good views of the surrounding hillocks for as long as the road passed through villages. The last couple of kilometers were through unpaved muddy roads passing through a slight forest stretch. We finally arrived at a small open space where we parked our car, at the base of the temple hill.

The forest trail
The trail through the forest cover, starting from the base to the temple arch

There was a small structure of brick and mortar (gudi) at the base, from where a flight of stairs led to the hilltop. People lit lamps, agarbattis and camphor here before starting their ascent. It took us about half an hour’s climb along properly laid stone steps leading to the top. These stone slabs bear the names of the devotees who have donated them and the count of their donations on each step. The ascent curved around at multiple places and offered amazing views of the valley below at every turn. The first half of the climb had a forest cover and large boulders on both sides, until we arrived at the welcome arch of the temple.

The path towards the left of the trail, towards the temple
The path towards the left of the trail, towards the temple

The forest cover ended after a few steps further from there and opened to a panoramic view of the valley of the villages and farms below. As one stands on a large rocky outgrowth, you will find the trail split into two paths. One, straight down through some Gulmohur trees. Second, up towards the temple. We decided to first walk the trail going straight. A few yards from there, the trees made way to a beautiful pond of pink lilies, dug right beneath a large rocky monolith. We later realized that devotees take a dip in this pond before proceeding towards the temple.

The path towards the right of the trail, leading to the temple pond
The path towards the right of the trail, leading to the temple pond

The view of the valley from there and the magical vibe of sitting by this pond of lilies could not let us go easily from there. My friend settled on the banks, with a book to read. Although the water was heavily littered with plastics, it was still a super calm spot to soak in some good energy. After spending a while, we then headed towards the temple, located on the peak of the hill, a short walk away. There was a panoramic 360 degrees view of Hosur and Krishnagiri from the temple, the green cover around, Krishnagiri dam and the Then Pennai river. The temple priest arrived much later at around 10.00.a.m. for the daily prayers.

Balakodandaraya swamy temple, Krishnagiri
Balakodandaraya swamy temple and the cleft for drawing water

Surprisingly, a small cleft in the rocky hill serves as a perennial source of potable water for temple use. The people who had gathered there by then, helped the priest in drawing water from this cleft and clean the temple premises before offering the day’s prayers. We sat there for a while and decided to head back to the base before the sun took over the skies and heated the rocks around. Overall, it was an incredibly beautiful place for a short trip from the city.

Other nearby places:

If you are looking at making it a full day trip, then you can explore the nearby places that include:

The Hoysala Trail 2- Belavadi

In my wish list to visit as many Hoysala temples as possible in this lifetime, this is the second documentation. I started this series with the temples of Belur and Halebidu, as these were the erstwhile capital cities of the Hoysala. I will move on from there.

Continued from The Hoysala Trail 1- Belur & Halebidu

Belavadi is a quaint little village located approximately an hour away from the Hoysala capital town, Belur. The Veera Narayana swamy temple of Belavadi is one of those where the main idol of the presiding deity is still intact and regular prayers continue to be offered. The intricacy of the artwork on stone is very similar to that of the temples at Belur and Halebidu.

Veeranarayanaswamy temple, Belavadi
Images: Veeranarayanaswamy temple, Belavadi Top: Outer entrance gate to the temple Below: Inner entrance to main shrine at Veeranarayanaswamy temple, Belavadi

Unlike the main Gopuram (temple tower) at Belur, the entrance gate at the Belavadi temple is small. There are two ornate statues of two elephants that greets you inside. The sculpture on the outer wall is simple and minimalistic. as you enter, you notice that the inner walls are plain. It is possible that these were stolen, vandalized, or lost over the course of time, only historians can tell me better.

Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi
The sculptures on the exterior of Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi

As you walk past this entrance gate, arch you pass the courtyard and are greeted again by a pair of standing elephant statues into the main temple that encompasses the shrines in the trikuta style of temple architecture. The three shrines inside houses idols of Lord Vishnu in three different forms. Huge lathe turned stone pillars and walls bearing fine and intricately carved figurines adorn the inner walls of the temple where photography is prohibited at the time of my visit (in July-2022).

Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi
The Trikuta temple towers at Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi

The outer walls are equally gorgeous too with intrinsic stone carvings and embossings all over. Due to limited permissions for photography, my photo story here consists only of photos of the exterior of the temple, but more than sufficient to give an idea of this marvel.

Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi
The inner and the main entrance of Veeranarayana swamy temple, Belavadi

Also, a walk around the tiny hamlet of Belavadi is highly recommended. I loved the unique design of these traditional houses that emanated a vibe of an old world.

To be continued as Hoysala Trail 3

A summer weekend in the placid coast of Karnataka

Heard of the potential of Aqua-tourism in Karnataka? We did just that. Read Further.

Water activities like kayaking, surfing, and diving are slowly catching up with enthusiasts, both for recreation and as a sport. Thanks to favorable winds, some of the most serene estuaries with mangrove ecosystems and untouched diving spots, Karnataka’s coastal region has been attracting enthusiasts and vacationers from all over. It was a family road trip driving down from the hills of Kodagu to the coast of Karnataka.

Just like the gad-bad ice-cream that originated in this region, our itinerary was packed with experiences. We wanted to see the bioluminescent waters. Bioluminescence is a naturally occurring phenomenon in which the microorganisms present in the water emit light when disturbed thus making the water glow. The darker the surroundings, the better the visibility of this phenomenon. Hence, we had signed up for a night kayaking session on a no-moon night in the backwaters of river Shambavi at Mulki. We chose to camp by the riverbank to have a closer connection to the waters.

Campsite at Shambavi river bank, Mulki
Our Campsite at Shambavi river bank, Mulki

After arriving at the campsite and while my parents enjoyed their time strolling around the place, my brother and I took our lessons on taming the waves with the surfboards. Although my brother was quick to get the knack of balancing himself on the surfboard, I fell into the water several times before finally getting it right. It was a fun session under the harsh sun until we returned to the campsite. We then tried some wakeboarding in the backwaters and then headed towards the beach again, to see the sunset.

Padubidri beach is among the only twelve beaches in India and two in Karnataka to have the blue flag certification. The drive to the beach itself was a beautiful experience with coconut trees towering over the narrow road running parallel to the sea. With all facilities including clean washrooms and good restaurants, the swim, and the sunset at Padubidri was one for the books. After grabbing some refreshments at the stalls there, we headed back to our campsite to relax a bit before the beautiful night that had to follow.

Since it was a no-moon night, the tides had caused the water levels to rise. It was pitch dark as we set our individual kayaks out into the water and began to paddle along the river. Geared with life jackets and our oars, we were ready to set the water ablaze, quite literally! We had no sense of where we were going but to follow a faint beam of torch light on the first kayak that guided us in the correct direction. The magic slowly started to unfold in the water after we had covered a certain distance. The glowing waters peaked while we all had gathered at the river mouth on our kayaks. Although, it is said that bioluminescent waters are a sign of unhealthy water, I convince myself of not being guilty of enjoying this experience. We all screamed with joy as we splashed the blue waters on each other with our hands and our paddles. With each dip of our hand in the river, our arms would glow in neon blue, which seemed nothing but a fairytale.

Kayaking in Shambavi backwaters
Kayaking in Shambavi backwaters

The following morning, we drove up to the temple town of Murudeshwara to score off yet another item on my bucket list. At about 20 kilometers off the coast of this temple town is Netrani island, a strategic patch of land controlled by the Indian Navy. Although entry to the island itself is restricted, the surrounding waters are open for public access during the spring months each year. This area is one of the best dive-sites in mainland India and that’s why I had been contemplating a visit here. We had pre-booked our slot for scuba diving with one of the several diving agencies around there.

Soon after filling out forms, a boat arrived at the beach to take us on a ride of approximately one hour to reach the dive spot. Our family was accompanied by a few other travelers, who like us were enthusiastic about their dive. Enroute, the instructions were given to everyone on the boat, both first timers and experienced. After reaching the site, without wasting time sitting inside the boat and waiting for our turn to scuba dive, we grabbed the snorkel gears and jumped into the water. The view inside had already set a good momentum for the expectations we had for the deep dive. Soon, each of us took turns to go underwater, touch the seabed and live our moments in a new world under the water. Especially for my sexagenarian parents, it was something that they hadn’t done before, and they felt a sense of accomplishment. It was evening by the time we returned to the shore with our boat tossing hard in the unusually rough sea.

Murudeshwar temple during Sunset
Murudeshwar temple during Sunset

We freshened up at a nearby lodge before visiting the Murudeshwara temple. We called it a day while watching the sun go down from atop the temple tower. It is highly recommended that this spring-summer trip to the coast of Karnataka should go onto everyone’s bucket list!

A compilation of art and science from the by-lanes of India

I am an art enthusiast by passion and an engineer by qualification. I seek to be an art aficionado and a curious kid within me is always on the lookout to learn how things are made and work. In fact, I believe the best art is created by the culmination of science and creativity. As a traveler, I do not miss a chance to visit and interact with artisans and understand how they make things what they are good at.

When I travel to a new place, I try to accommodate time to explore the lesser touristy streets of any place because according to me, the real soul of any place lives in its by-lanes. I try to meet enthusiasts (across genres) and visit their creative abodes or workshops to see things take form.

Here is a compilation of such posts describing the souvenirs that combine two worlds of art and science which one can buy when visiting these destinations.

  1. Bangalore : HMT Watches
  2. Rajahmundry: Ratnam fountain pens
  3. Aranmula: Metallic mirrors
  4. Bastar: Metal crafts (wrought iron and bell-metal crafts)
  5. South India: Bronze icons

How many of these souvenirs have you collected, yet?

Bannerghatta beyond zoo- Bilikal Ranganathaswamy betta

Initially, when a friend mentioned the destination for an impromptu drive on a Saturday morning, I hoped to correct him by telling it was ‘Biligiri Ranganathaswamy Betta’. “No, it is Bili-Kal’, he specified. ‘Bili’ translates to ‘white’ in Kannada. ‘Giri’ means ‘hill’. ‘Kallu’ means ’stone/ rock’. In this context, we were both talking about two different destinations. Although the presiding deity at the temples located atop both these hills are common, Biligiri is more popular than its counterpart at Bilikal. While Biligiri forms the core of Biligiri Ranganathaswamy Temple (BRT) tiger reserve, Bilikal is in the heart of a reserve forest that comes under Kodihalli wildlife division of Bannerghatta National Park. So, this time, we were heading to ‘Bilikal Ranganathaswamy Betta’, the closest of the two to Bangalore city limits, reachable through Kanakapura road.

We stopped by Halagur town for breakfast which has several old and popular eateries that serve unique types and authentic recipes of idlis for breakfast. (Comment below if you need hotel recommendations). Post this break, we followed google maps to reach our destination.

There is a forest check post enroute where one needs to make an entry to continue the journey ahead. The temple hill can be summited via two routes, one is a trek route with stairs, and another is through an unpaved road that is clearly marked till the end. Although four-wheel drive is not mandatory for those opting to drive up, it is recommended to have a vehicle with good ground clearance.

Bilikal ranganathaswamy temple
Bilikal ranganathaswamy temple, Rear view of the Monolithic rock

Upon reaching the peak, it was a large open area which came as quite a surprise. While one side of the hill had the temple pond dug into the edge of the rocky hill, the main temple of Ranganathaswamy is located on another side of the hill, overseeing a magnificent view of the surrounding hills. The main deity is carved out of a large monolithic rocky outcrop on the hill, which makes this place unique among all that I had visited thus far. There is a small sculpture on this rock which we were told is the original figurine of worship until it was damaged many years ago. Since then, an alternate idol has been carved out of the larger rock and a simple temple has been built outside leading into the prayer chamber within the monolithic rock.

Next to the temple rock, is another old and small room like stone structure. A few localites who were present there told us that it was the house of an old lady Kamalamma, who lived there and had dedicated her life in the service of Lord Ranganatha. Amid the wilderness of the thick jungle, she lived all alone in the belief that Ranga was her caretaker. She was accompanied by a few cattle that lived there whose milk was used to distribute buttermilk to pilgrims who arrived there every Saturday after a tiring ascent by foot (before the drivable route was laid out). She is no more, and her tomb is now housed inside the structure where she lived.

Bilikal ranganathaswamy temple, front view of the rock temple

A short climb from this structure is another viewpoint, where one can sit on the rocky outcrop under the shade of the surrounding trees and take in some good views of the valley around. We returned after spending some time there. Overall, this was a pleasant and an offbeat outing from the city.

Things to note:

  • The temple and the forest check-post are open for public access only on Saturdays. Only one Pooja is offered to the deity, once per week.
  • The annual temple fair is held here in January when a wooden temple car is assembled and taken around the rock-temple.
  • All along our way, we observed a lot of fresh elephant dung. Hence, we are certain that the trail is frequented by elephants and other wild animals at all times of the day. As both the routes pass through dense forest, it is recommended to comply with all guidelines laid by the forest department.

Other nearby places that you can combine your visit with:

  • Shri Govinakallu Anjaneya swami temple (an offroad drive in the same forest limits)
  • Mekedaatu and Sangama
  • Muthathi riverbank
  • Galibore fishing camp
  • Bheemeshwari adventure and nature camp
Bilikal Ranganatha swamy temple

Bannerghatta beyond zoo- Suvarnamukhi

Suvarnamukhi is located inside the reserved forest area within the boundaries of Bannerghatta National Park which can be accessed through a main road till its base. This was one of the unplanned and random destinations that my family had arrived at, a couple of years ago, which I believe needed to be documented.

It was a brief hike through the forest terrain which was rough and interspersed with bushes and rocks that lead us to an ancient temple. Along the way, we observed pebbles and stones arranged in circular and a maze-like pattern depicting various complex themes. We were told that it dates to the pre-historic era and represents some kind of tribal worship or dolmens.

Hike trail to Suvarnamukhi temple, Bannerghatta
Hike trail to Suvarnamukhi temple, Bannerghatta

Walking past, we arrived at the AmbaBhavani and SriBhavani temple which was closed at the time. There is a pushkarini / Temple tank in front of this temple whose water is believed to be able to heal skin ailments. I was told that the tank is emptied once a year, to worship a Hanuman sculpture that lays at the bottom of this tank.

Suvarnamukhi temple, Bannerghatta
Ambabhavani temple at Suvarnamukhi, Bannerghatta

A short walk away from here is the Champaka swamy temple, an important site of local worship. Alternatively, people arriving by own transport can park their vehicles at the Champaka swamy temple before starting their hike towards Suvarnamukhi. The relevance of these temples and the pond in Indian mythology attracts people in large numbers on special occasions to visit this place.

A few meters away from the temple is the Vahnigiri peak, which gives an unhindered view of Bangalore’s expanding skyline. I remember spending some time sitting atop the rocky hill as the wind continued to waft past us before walking back down through the forest.

Things to note:

The entire hike trail passes through thick forest area that will be frequented by wild animals including elephants. This visit of ours was a few years ago when we needed no forest permits. It is recommended to check the latest rules with the authorities for any relevant permits before venturing out all by yourself.

List of the Widest Waterfalls of India

We all know that the widest waterfall in the world is the Niagara, and it is in America! So, we take it for convenience to use Niagara as a synonym to refer to every other wide waterfall in our region. But how many of us have really seen the widest waterfall in India? Or for that matter, how many of us have seen the widest waterfall of our own states within India? Irony is we surely know Niagara, but we might have not even heard of the one in our own backyard.

So, here’s my attempt at listing some of the widest waterfalls in the Indian states that we love to call the Niagara of our country! (Note: These are by width of the waterfalls and not by their height)

1. Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh:

The WIDEST waterfall in India is this, where river Indravati plummets down a horse-shoe shaped gorge. A beauty to behold in all true senses, a ride in a country boat to right under the waterfall is a spell-binding experience.

Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season
Chitrakote waterfalls during summer season

2. Athirappilly waterfalls, Kerala:

Chalakudy river cascades down a rocky gorge forming this spectacular waterfall is something that one would not want to miss on their next haunt to Kerala to explore its backwaters and canals.

Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala
Athirapilly waterfalls, Thrissur district Kerala

3. Gokak waterfalls, Karnataka:

Formed by the Ghataprabha river, Gokak falls is Karnataka’s best kept secret. A walk on the hanging-bridge laid right across the waterfall when it is flowing full, is an experience worth considering.

Gokak waterfalls
Above: The front view of Gokak falls from the Volkart rock view point; Below: A view from the Hanging bridge.

4. Hogeynakal waterfalls, Tamil Nadu:

As river Kaveri enters Tamil-Nadu, she plummets down forming this beautiful waterfall where a coracle ride is highly recommended.

Hogeynakal waterfalls
The breathtaking view of the Hogeynakal waterfalls from the watch tower

5. Bogatha waterfalls, Telangana:

An unexplored beauty, the Cheekupally stream cascades down forming this waterfall that has still been off the radar of mass-tourism.

6. Panimur waterfalls, Assam:

Assam is mainly a low-land / plain area with Dima Hasao district being its only hill-station. The high altitude of the region holds some of the best waterfalls of the state as well, among which Panimur waterfalls formed by the Kopili river is its best-kept secret.

Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam
Panimur waterfalls at Dima Hasao district, Assam

7. Bahuti waterfalls, Madhya Pradesh:

Some may revere it to be the highest in Madhya Pradesh state, but I couldn’t find an equivalent in width to match this place of natural beauty which is formed by Sellar river in Rewa district.

8. Seven sister waterfalls, Meghalaya:

Thanks to its year-round rainfall, Meghalaya is a land of waterfalls, each being spectacular on its own. Talking about wide waterfalls, this set of seven-segmented waterfalls drops down a limestone cliff at Cherrapunjee which looks spectacularly wide when it is full during the monsoon-season.

9. Gira waterfalls, Gujarat:

Formed by the river Ambika, a jeep ride through a nice green landscape to reach this waterfall is what the locals recommend to enjoy this visit better.

This is my humble attempt to enlist some of the widest waterfalls, picking one from each state in India. Let me know what is the widest waterfall at where you are?

Boat ride at Chitrakote waterfalls, Chhattisgarh

Stories Through Souvenirs- An e-book

A compilation of 18 short stories based on my experiences of traveling on the roads of India, I’m happy to share that my second e-book is now available for my readers.

My book- ‘Stories Through Souvenirs‘ is a compilation of my stories of meeting people, hearing their stories and the learnings from my experiences. These are the stories of how these stories influenced me to become who I am.

Do give it a read and I am sure you will like it 😊

Bangalore Day Trips

If you are visiting Bangalore just for a day or are a resident of the city figuring out how to spend your day, here is a curation for those who are short on time and high on interest to explore. Depending on your choice, you can choose from what I have put-in together under three different categories.

Short drives:

The soil of Bengaluru is believed to be extremely fertile. One can visit a new farm and learn about agriculture in every direction. Also, several reserved forests dot the city boundaries. But the rapidly expanding boundary of the city has been soon taking over these green spaces and the limits of the city outskirts has been constantly changing.

My family and I have always loved to drive or ride out of the city in search of green spaces and spend some time in random destinations that are as random as just a lonely tree, a lake or a large boulder that gives a good view of the surroundings. Here is a list of such routes, trips and stories to help you plan yours.

  1. Day trip of villages around Channapatna
  2. Drive to Gulakamale lake
  3. Drive to Ragihalli Betta
  4. Drive to Koratagere Doddi
  5. Drive to Gullahatti Kaval
  6. Drive and local trip to Mekedaatu
  7. Drive to Ghati Subramanya and Makalidurga
  8. Drive to Kaiwara
  9. Driving around Devanahalli town
  10. Visiting GKVK university campus
  11. Driving around Haniyur village
  12. Visiting Railway Gollahalli
  13. Exploring Bannerghatta zoo and National park
  14. Driving around Hesaraghatta
  15. Drive to Biligundlu Ranganatha Swamy temple
  16. Drive to Bilikal Ranganatha Swamy temple

Treks & hikes:

Bangalore is blessed with abundant hills surrounding its periphery on all sides. There is an endless opportunity to explore a new hiking trail almost every day of the year. There are only a few that have been caught by the explorers and thanks to social media, have become popular. Here is a list of few such trails that I have hiked up and found time to document my experience.

  1. A natural arch – Bheemanakindi
  2. Night hike to see sunrise – Kunti Betta
  3. Hike to Siddarabetta
  4. Trek to Madhugiri fort
  5. Hike to Kunagalu Betta
  6. Hike to Acchalu Betta
  7. Hike to Balakodandaraya Swamy temple
  8. Hike to Suvarnamukhi Betta and temple

Explore city:

Once popular as the garden city, no one really saw Bengaluru to be expanding as much as it has and has been. Albeit being so modern, it is old and conservative. Despite being advanced with IT and tech, it is still laid back with its art and history. If you are someone with an interest to explore all sides of this metropolitan city, then I’ve tried my best to share some of my knowledge here.

  1. A Gastronomic walk-tour of South Bengaluru
  2. History of IISc and HAL, the two Premier institutes of India
  3. A list of premier museums in Bengaluru and their history
  4. Visiting a HMT watch store

Long drives:

These are places that you can visit in one day by road from Bangalore. if you are in a mood for a lonng drive, beyond Bangalore, here are itineraries for one-full day.

  1. Hogeynakal waterfalls
  2. Exploring nature around Mysore circuit
  3. Historical temples of Lepakshi
  4. Unesco Heritage (tentative) site- Temples of Belur & Halebeedu
  5. Exploring KGF (Kolar Gold Field)
  6. Pilgrimage to Adichunchanagiri betta

Bioluminescent Experiences in Karnataka

Karnataka is “One State Many Worlds, without a doubt! To explore a different aspect of travelling through this beautiful state, I take you on a path that is en-Lightening, in literal sense- ‘Bioluminescence’. Bioluminescence is a naturally occurring phenomenon of production and emission of light in living organisms. Apart from the visual treat to senses that they offer, the presence of these organisms can tell a lot about our environment as well.

With the Arabian Sea forming the entire coastal belt and the Western Ghats forming most of the green-cover of Karnataka, it is easy to witness bioluminescence anywhere in the state. Traversing a path from the southern rainforests of the state to the northern plainlands through the coastal beaches across all the seasons, here is a list of the different kinds of bioluminescence that one can experience in Karnataka.

  1. Fireflies: An aerial illumination for spectators, these insects produce light to attract a potential mate. Abundant during the months of pre-monsoon showers and summers, the untouched sacred groves and the organic farms of Kodagu and Malenadu offer a post sunset visual delight. A good number of fireflies indicates the good soil and air quality.
  2. Bioluminescent planktons: These light emitting micro-organisms are present in the sea water. They produce a greenish-blue light when disturbed. This means, they produce light irrespective of day or night but can be seen with normal eyes after dark. These glowing waters can be viewed at their brightest best on a no-moon night between two consecutive monsoon months. But what is not the brighter about it is the fact that the brighter the sea glows due to these planktons, the poorer is the health of the sea water.
  3. Bioluminescent fungi: This can be the hardest find of them all. Enter the core of the rainforest during the peak of the monsoon season, with a slow and careful walk and without use of any torch or flashlights. Only if you are lucky, you can spot these glowing sticks or the fallen barks covered by the glowing fungi. Documented sightings have been found in Karnataka, but I’m sure the Western Ghats are home to more species of luminant mushrooms.
  4. Glow worms: These are larvae of some insects that can be largely found along the banks of streams, rivers and under the foliage on moist ground. An indication of healthy soil, these worms emit light to ward off predators and visually offering a delight to the human eyes.

Have you witnessed any other bioluminescent experiences? Are there any specific place that you wish to share your stories about? Do let me know in comments below!